Why install the transmission shaft seal facing out towards the sprocket? On both my E50's they're facing in. I'd imagine it'd help prevent buildup and the spring from rusting. DannyMoped
That's what they were when they came off and that is also what the manual recommends.
yo its exceedingly dangerous to blow out metal chips with compressed air. just throwin that out there
A list of suggestions/ideas/possible clarifications/etc from IRE members, Mid-Mo members, and me:
- Alternate or additional bearing installation method that includes freezing the crank/gear in addition to heating the bearings
- Application of case sealant -- why not just put it everywhere?
- Remove the clutch and flywheel before taking the top end off. It's sooooo much easier if you can use a piston stop (and have the added leverage of still having the engine attached to the frame)
- Case matching might be easier to understand for the noobz if it were all together
- A diagram of where the long screws go and where the short screws go would be helpful (IMO, anyway ... I'm gonna make one for myself regardless)
- A mention of clutch shimming. This is in the manual on pages 44-47, but mentioning it in here would be helpful. I know I was confused when I used an aftermarket crank and the clutch bell didn't spin like it was supposed to because it needed to be re-shimmed.
- There's already a link to the page that specifies bearing and seal numbers, but linking to the page with the hardware information -- sizes of circlips and spacers, and maybe the sizes of the case/clutch/kickstand/etc hardware would complement that nicely. I suppose I could go do that right now, and it would take 2 seconds, but...
- Reiterating the order of spacers and circlips on the clutch side of the crank.
- A warning about how it might be difficult to remove that one $%*#!@ screw. (The one deep in the case that is nearly impossible to get at with an impact driver, and that always seems to be unreasonably tight).
- The importance of getting new seals and gaskets. Seems like this should be obvious, but you never know with some people. I'd still like to see gasket scans in the wiki since that would make it easier for us to cut our own, but that's another matter.
- Torque specs for case and head (6ft/lbs for case, 7ft/lbs for head)
- Double nutting to make it easier to remove or install threaded things like cylinder studs
- If there is a specific order for cross-tightening case bolts, include that order
- In general, add notes from manual to article. I know that the beginning of this article suggests that we use the manual in addition to the article, but if I'm gauging people correctly, they're going to look at this and say, "Wow! Here's this awesome long article with big pretty colorful photos, explained in a way I can understand! Oh, this manual... it's hard to access, clicking on all these pages. It's not as pretty or in color. It's more confusing. Special tools!? I don't have a 1.048.DX4.918.690015 special tool! Screw that. I'ma just use this article." I haven't really looked into what kind of information this might include, but just on page 47 in the manual, there are notes about making the gaps in the locating rings face up, and about making sure there's enough clearance between the seals and bearings.
All of these things are just ideas, of course. In its current state, this is the 9th most popular article in the wiki, or the 7th most popular if we're counting average views per day since article creation (yes, I did calculate that out). This is more popular than Fred's Guide, or the parts crossover page, or the main Puch article. I might throw a few details in here or there, but I'm not going to rearrange anything or alter instructions for anything without further consensus and a game plan. So um, yeah. This is the discussion page. Anyone? Discuss. --Mycider 02:50, 4 October 2009 (EDT)