Relocating the condensers stock position under the flywheel to a more accessible location on the frame.

Time after time I have seen the thread pop up about replacing a suspected faulty condenser on Peugeot motors. Some people suggest just spicing a new automotive style condenser into the wiring and leaving the sick condenser sitting under the flywheel. It's a 50/50 chance that this will work but if not you have to get that bad condenser out of its safe little bed. This is not a really easy task as it involves setting the timing and soldering in a new condenser that is unique to this bike and must be mailed away for. I suggest deleting the stock position and moving the condenser out to the frame where it can be swapped out for a new cheap automotive style in seconds.

stock stator

I got this stator complete off the Buy/Sell forum for like 25.00. I will be using it on a new build as I want just stock ignition. Sometimes these old coil sets will still have a lot of life, and can be very reliable with separate brake light and head light functions for bright bulbs.


Brake light feed

This black wire coming from one side of the ignition coil is the brake light feed and travels to the break light bulb. The coil will not fire if this wire is not grounded either by traveling through the brake bulb filament or the path through the brake light switches at the hand controls.
I can see that the wires plate grommet is missing. I will have to hunt one up.


filthy

I will need to clean this plate up.


save insulation

I always, when preparing a stator plate for a motor, replace the old red plug wire with a new metallic cable that I buy by the foot. I start this by splitting the stock bit of insulation. I then set this valuable piece of rubber aside so I can reinstall it with the new cable.


New cable

Here is a close up of the new bulk cable. I get this over the counter at Napa stores part #734803 its like 0.60 cents a foot. You have to be sure to get Metallic core or you won't be able to solder it.


solder new cable

After you melt the solder on the old cable, quickly bang the end of the coil armature on the table. This will help clear the old solder out of the hole in the steel connecting tab so you can thread the end of the new cable through the tabs hole and then solder it in for keeps.


insulation

Here's where you reuse the old insulation. This will help keep the spark produced by the coil from jumping to the back of the stator plate.


taped tight

Tape it tight. Wow, looks great.


install coils

Now I start to re install the components back to the plate.


new points

Next I set in the new points and transfer the points wire to them.


fish wires

Thread the red and brown wires through the hole in the plate.


unsolder wires

Unsolder the three wires from the old condenser. Use a small tool to pry the wires off as you heat.


un solder


old cond

Now you can lift out the old condenser and toss it.


solder three wires

Next bundle the three wire ends the best you can and get them good and hot so that solder will flow through them.


Tape up good

Wrap the soldered blob with a lot of tape so that your sure that no bare wires can ground out on the stator plate.


wick bracket

Poke the tape ball down in the old condenser well and then screw in the points oil wick bracket.


wick

Install the wick and squeeze the bracket tight on the sides. Drop some motor or any kind of oil on the wick till it is saturated.


tighten nuts

Blah Blah


install grommets

If you fail to install grommets on the stator plate wires I can promise you that the variating action of the motor will eventually wear through the wires and ground them out.


schematic

The new condenser tap in location is going to be where the brown wire from the stator plate connects to the brown wire of the stock rectifier via bullet connectors. Invest in a hand full of these from the autoparts store so that your connections stay clean and waterproof.


rectifier mod

Here is the stock rectifier. Many people just bypass and get rid of this part but I have read that it is crucial to keep your points ignition operating consistently. I used to get did of this part and soon would have burned points and hard starting symtoms. There are only three wires coming from the rectifier: Brown= will go to the brown of the stator plate.
Blue= will go to the blue that travels to the handlebar kill/ground switch.
White= will connect to white which will travel to the back of the bike under the seat to the resistance coil/ground.


crimp on pig tail

I like to snip off the rectifiers bullet connector and then replace it with a new bullet connector including a pigtail wire with a female bullet that will accept the wire from the new automotive style condenser.


auto condenser installed

The final will look something like this. I guess I could go into more elaboration as to the automotive condenser that I am using in this mod. The one in the picture I got from Napa Auto Parts. Echlin brand part number EP30. Cost about 5.00. I like these because they have a mounting tab with hole built built right on the body for easy mounting.


frame mount

Here is the condenser screwed to the bikes frame. This connection has to be tight and clean so that it cant
rattle loose. If it comes loose the bike will run still but very bad.


pigtail

The female connector in the foreground is where the new automotive condenser bullet connector will fit.
The connection in the background is the stator rectifier connection. You can now remount your improved stator plate with modded condenser access. Set your timing and install the flywheel. Here is a method for folks with limited tools and skill. https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Poor_mans_method_for_timing_Peugeot_103


brown wires

I am now finished with this Wiki page. If you have any questions about the tips I suggested, or are having trouble with the process or can suggest how I can correct a mistake I have made or to make the page better, contact Cheetahchrome http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/profile.php?6,26847