Tired of your 5 star mags and 10 spoke Puch mags? What if you just want to get rid of your old rusty chrome spokers??
Here's a unique way to put a fashionable, and unique twist on your Puch Maxi. By adding the French Motobecane 17" 12-spoke magnums to your ped, the resistance will fortify their German front lines yet again.
This exercise is for all Puch Maxi models ONLY, this process may require modification to use on the Magnum model or other makes.
The basic idea is to keep the wheels ALL Motobecane, while utilizing the Puch braking system. This is difficult due to different offsets, different axle dimensions, and a different swingarm setup. Because the Moby wheels have the sealed bearing, Puch LOOSE-BEARING axles will not fit though them as they are exactly 1mm too wide. Therefore, you will need to use the Motobecane axles, nuts, spacers, and slide-lock chuck-washers. THE ONLY PUCH PARTS NEEDED WILL BE THE BRAKES THEMSELVES and the REAR CHAIN TENSIONER BANJOS and REAR SPROCKET.
You Will Need:
- 1 Rear 12-spoke, 17" Motobecane aluminum wheel
- 1 Front 12-spoke, 17" Motobecane aluminum wheel
- 1 Front LELEU brake (or comparable front brake for a Puch Maxi)
- 1 Rear brake for a Puch Maxi
- 1 Rear axle for Motobecane MAG WHEELS
- 1 Front axle for Motobecane MAG WHEELS
- 1 Puch rear sprocket
- 1 Puch speedo drive
- 1/4 inch Drill
- Extra washers
- 1/2 inch copper tube (thinnest you can find) [MAY NOT NEED!]
- Puch Front Brake Spacer Bushing
ALL HARDWARE FOR BOTH SETS OF WHEELS IS NOT NECESSARY, BUT SHOULD BE AVAILABLE!
- Taking the front Motobecane mag wheel; remove the axle nuts, brake assembly, and speedo assembly, leaving just the axle, slide-lock washer and brake spacer in place along with the speedo-side lock nut.
- Take a washer from the Puch axle (or one of equal size, about a 1/2inch washer) and place it over the slide-lock washer and spacer. Then, take the small bushing spacer from the Puch axle (or simply use 2 or 3 more washers) and place it over the washer.
- Place Puch Leleu brake in position. The brake WILL be a TAD loose on the axle as the Puch axle is a tad wider. This difference will not cause any ill affects during riding and breaking as it will eventually wear-itself into position, however you may want to make a small bushing out of some copper plate, copper pipe, or aluminum plating to eliminate play. Once you get the brake centered, use the Motobecane brake pinch nut to lock the brake to the axle.
- Hold the axle and spin the wheel to ensure the brake isn't rubbing if you notice the pads rubbing, the brake is NOT centered on the axle, however this will go away with riding, or small adjustments. If you notice the brake hub/plate rubbing on the wheel then you need to go back to step 2 and add another washer or two until the brake passes over the hub freely.
- Next, flip the wheel over (brake side down) on the work bench. Take the Puch speedo drive and set it in place. It should NOT sit flush. Carefully measure (or eyeball) the position of the speedo guide-pin in the underside of the drive. Plot out it's position on the wheel hub and drill a shallow 1/4 inch hole (do NOT DRILL THROUGH THE WHEEL ALL THE WAY) to act as a recess for the guide-pin. After you ensure the speedo fits flush on the wheel and the guide pin engages the hub you can use a shallow washer to shim the speedo gear away from the wheel slightly, so that it doesn't rub during normal operation.
- Lock the speedo gear in place with the speedo nut and hold the axle. Spin the wheel. Ensure there is no grinding, rubbing, or chafing. If there is, you may need to sand down a minute area, or re-shim an area with a washer or two. The key here is to keep enough of the axle available for the forks to clamp onto safely.
- Following the same process as the front wheel, remove all outer axle nuts and brake assembly from the Motobecane wheel. (You do not need to remove the pedal gear, it will work fine.)
- Remove the Motobecane REAR sprocket and replace it with the stock Puch (or whatever custom gearing you may be running) sprocket. The Motobecane sprocket is FAR too large and will give you INSANE amounts of low-end with almost NO top end. (It'd make a 30mph bike do about 21.)
- With the Puch sprocket in place drop the rear Puch brake into place. This may require a shim/washer between the spacer and the brake. After you achieve proper spacing, lock the brake in place with the brake nut. The rear brake, like the front, will be loose on the axle. Follow the test in Front Wheel assembly operation to ensure that nothing is rubbing or chafing. You may want to also spin the wheel on the axle and grip the brake lever to ensure the brake actuates properly.
- Place both banjo-style PUCH chain-tensioner screws in place on the axles, put Motobecane washers and rear axle nuts on.
Everything up until this point has been modification, but from here on out, you can treat your wheels like stock Puch equipment. All cables and both brakes will line up perfectly in their stock positions.
Riding and Adjustment:
After installing your wheels you will want to go EASY on them so that the brakes have a chance to seat and everything settles into place. After a good 10 mile ride, RE-TORQUE EVERYTHING DOWN WHILE THE WHEELS ARE ON THE BIKE. Make especially sure to tighten the brake hub nuts as the hub may have shifted during riding.
Also take into account that when doing any modification to brakes, wheels, tires or gearing you are changing the handling characteristics of your bike. TEST BEFORE YOU RIDE. Don't do this operation and expect to hop on and do 40+mph without any issues. Your brakes need to settle in and will need to be re-adjusted.
Note: This is a TRIAL-AND-ERROR operation as no two setups are the same. This is simply my own process and should be used as a suggestive tutorial only.
Originally written and edited by DannyMoped07