Puch CDI

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The CDI kit shown here can be used on ZA50 and E50 Puch motors. Most of the time they can be bolted in directly without modification. Bolting this stator on will mean you will no longer have the stock brake light function (see Puch CDI Brake Light Fix). However when switching the CDI unit between the E50 and ZA50 the ignition coil must be unscrewed and flipped over then re-installed. This is due to the rotational direction of the engines being opposite, thus the electrons in the coil will be moved in the wrong direction by the magnetic field of the stator, failure to do this will result in a weak spark at the spark plug.


For the E50 it is installed as shown below. You will have to remove the brown ground wire from the back and put it on the front. At the same time you should swap the screws on that coil, as the longer bolt interferes with the case if left on the left side.

Some kits required enlarging the adjustment slots in the plate in order to get full advance. Others have bolted with no issue. If you find that your timing is retarded still with the plate at full advance, you likely need to break out the dremel. Moving the pickup to the other side causes it to be advanced too far.


The 12v CDI Ducati exciter coil on the stator plate (white wrapped) from a Puch Korado, will also work on this CDI kit.

The white wrapped with red lead coil is the (high tension coil) or the high voltage coil for the spark. The other coil with the yellow lead is the light coil or low voltage, it puts out a range of around 12volts up to and over 20 volts @ high revs. That's why you should run a voltage regulator so you don't blow your 12volt bulbs.


For the ZA50 the plate is installed as below. It should bolt right on, no reported need for modifications.Za50 cdi.jpg

Failure and Repair

These cheap CDI's are notoriously unreliable, and of those I've surveyed about 50% fail within the first month and 80% fail within the first year. The cause of failure is believed to be due to the inability to dissipate power if it fails to ground through the plug. This can be caused by a loose plug boot, pulling the plug boot off to kill the bike, a bad ground for the CDI, or sometimes just by ordinary use. One thing is almost always true, when it fails it is the CDI Box/coil unit, and not the stator coils. The pickup coil (small white) has also been known to fail causing a rev limiting effect. Basically the pickup overloads and overtime cuts out at lower and lower RPM, making the bike behave like it's limited.

The wiring is as follows:

From the stator:

  • Red - Ignition Power
  • White - Timing pulse
  • Yellow - Lighting
  • Brown - Ground

On Box:

  • Red - Ignition Power
  • White - Timing pulse
  • Yellow - Lighting
  • Black- Kill (ground to kill)
  • Black/white - Ground


If your CDI stops working, and you've tested for spark using a new plug and a new boot:

1st - check for power out of the CDI box, try at the plug wire. If you have power here but no spark, you need a new plug or boot. If not proceed to #2

2nd - remove the wires and measure voltages from the stator - Red should put out over 5V, white should put out small (<1V) but measurable pulses. You can use a drill with a 15/17mm socket to spin the crank to test voltages easily.

If you have power from the stator red and some power on the white, your HT coil/CDI is bad, Proceed to replacing the HT coil/CDI unit.

If you have no power on the red, your power coil is bad and you will need to replace the stator (or just the coil)

If you have power on red but nothing at all on white, your pickup coil is bad. this can be rewound or replaced. Also try moving it on the stator to where it sits nearest to the magneto and try again to see if you can get power out of it. It's triggered by a magnet on the magneto and if it gets too far away it won't get the proper charge to pulse and trigger the CDI to spark.

Replacing the box/coil

Using the wiring above you can wire in a new HT (high tension) coil and box. A universal coil will work, such as the Olympia or other universal 12v external coils.

To wire in the new box, you just need to hook up the red wire from the stator to the CDI "power in", the white wire to the CDI "timing in", ground the brown stator wire, ground the CDI's ground, and hook the CDI "power output" to the coil. more details for various CDI's can be found here: Performance racing CDI

You can also use the Pietcard 2041 CDI as a replacement:

  • red from box to HT coil
  • grey from box to white from stator
  • blue from box to red from stator
  • black to ground

Repairing the pickup

The pickup coil failing can cause a problem that seems like lean bog once the engine hits a certain rpm. The pick-up can overload over time and feel like a CDI version of point float. If your bike seems like it's running fine through low revs and it has no leaks and known good jetting but cuts out at high RPM, this could be your problem. The pickup can be simply unscrewed and replaced (replacements available from treatland) or rewound. To rewind it simply remove it and unsolder the wire, find same gauge wire and count the # of windings; unwind the old wire and wind in the new one, then solder it back together and go ride with full RPM capability.

PIETCARD CDI,(( stock e50 stator plate conversion )) Also Puch fly wheels that only work with this are listed below

install puch maroon reddish colored     pietcard
unit #s face out cdi box 2013 or 2041 work 

Za50 bosh magneto used on a e50 #0212124044

Puch e50 bosh magneto #0212124066

Puch e50 bosh mag that DONT work !!#0212124043