K10 Forks


Hydraulic forks off a Suzuki K10 motorcycle can be a cheap and fairly easy alternative to hydraulic EBRs. You must convert to sealed front wheel bearings if you have cup-and-cone front wheel bearings and buy a longer axle, usually requiring an upgrade to a 12mm axle. See the original thread here

The handle bar clamp is 3/4 in. instead of standard 7/8 like most mopeds and motorcycles.

Distance between forks: 4.5" if you want a fork brace or fender, there are 4 threaded mounts on the forks.

Standard headlight ear headlight mount.

165mm headset length, 26mm diameter. This is shorter than Tomos and Ciao.

Overall Length: 26" The travel is approx 4-5" and adjustable with different oils and oil levels. Distance from Bottom Triple Tree to Axle is 16" and fits up to 18" wheels easily. (16" clearance, 10" wheel RADIUS and 5" travel)

For complete disassembly and assembly of the forks, Andrew Buck Michael did a breakdown of of the k15 forks which are very similar. See his post.

[[1]] <----quick summary

How to fit K10 forks to a Puch Maxi (the hard way)

Things you'll need:

  • K10 Forks
  • 12mm sealed bearing converted wheels (+ axle)
  • Puch headset
  • Washer to fit over steerer (27mm ID x 1mm thick)
  • Bottom Race adapter and spacer combo: P-sketch.jpg

Important measure the OD of your bottom race before machining this part. The measurement above is from my original hardware, and I know the KStar item available from treats is completely different. Also as the OD isn't considered an important dimension during manufacture it is very likely to vary from unit to unit.


  • Remove old forks and headset cups from bike
  • Press/hammer in new headset cups, some people use a rubber mallet, I used a bicycle headset press
  • Drill axle mount out to 12mm
  • Remove steerer & lower plate from fork legs
  • Grind off steering lock tab, grind of all sign of it as there isn't much clearance with the fork stops on the frame and these will remain functional with stops on the lower plate.
  • Remove race from K10 forks, some people use screwdrivers for this, I used a gear splitter and hammer.
  • Heat and press the adapter on to the steerer
  • Reassemble forks
  • Load cups with a little grease
  • Slide steerer in to head tube with bearings
  • Tighten knurled thing firmly, but by hand only
  • There should be a small amount of steerer protruding, put the washer on this
  • Tighten fork top clamp on, so the washer prevents the knurled thing from backing off.





  • apologies for the quality of the sketch above, I was done while sitting on the couch after a couple of beers...

K10's on Bikes


Compared to Hydro EBRs:


Without spring covers: