Hobbit CDI Wiring

Aftermarket CDI

This hopefully will help you wire your cheap aftermarket honda CDI's and should provide enough info to help you figure out whatever other CDI's you come up with. For the stock wiring see here: Honda PA Electrical

Note: If the cam from the aftermarket CDI touches the coils or sits to low on the crank taper you can use a points cam.

There are 5 wires from the CDI stator:

• Black - power out to CDI box
• Pink - timing pulse to CDI box
• Red - lights (high power, need regulator/rectifier)
• Brown -also lights, hook up either or both, brown puts out much less power
• Green - a 3rd output. Fairly weak. Really of no use but maybe you will find one. NOT a ground.

You may receive a CDI setup with different colored cdi power and cdi pulse wires than what is listed above. The alternate colors are:

• black and red - power out to the CDI box
• blue and white - timing pulse to CDI box
• red - lights
• You don't need the other wires

Generic 5 pin CDI

4 or 5 pin CDI

[1-2-3]

[4-5-6]

• 1 - timing input, pink from the stator
• 2 - empty
• 3 - is power out to the HT ignition coil, usually black
• 4 - ground
• 5 - kill switch (grounds to kill engine)
• 6 - power input from the stator, black wire from the stator

You'll need to make sure that the HT coil, the CDI box are grounded and that there is a good electrical contact between the frame and the subframe.

On the hobbit you got rubber grommets at the front pivot connection between frame and subframe and also in the shocks, neither are conducting. This makes a grounding electrical contact between frame and subframe important.

Universal CDI

The plug should match the 5 pin CDI pinout shown above. If you want to use the wire without the plug they are as follows

• yellow (from the CDI box) - power out to the HT coil, black wire to coil
• blue from box - timing in, connects to pink from the stator
• red from box - power in from the stator, black wire from the stator
• black from box - kill switch (ground to kill engine)
• green on box - ground

Check here for schematic of simplified wiring with 5 pin universal blue box

6 pin CDI

These are common and cheap for most modern scooters but should also work for you Hobbit. Some incompatibilities and differences may apply for DC powered and 4 stroke versions with variable timing.

Treats CDI

The above directions are for the 1977 cheap CDI, the Treats one has slightly different wiring as follows: this should be correct, please edit if not.

• Blue/Yellow - Timing pickup
• Black/Yellow - Power out to coil
• Green - Ground
• Black/White - Kill
• Black/Red - Power in from stator

Jog CDI

The Yamaha Jog/Zuma CDI boxes can be found readily on ebay for pretty cheap and have a good 2stroke timing curve. It's timing works well with the stock hobbit stator as-aligned with the woodruff key.

• Red/Black - Power in (to black from aftermarket stator or black/red stock cdi)
• Red/White - timing pulse (to pink, white on stock cdi)
• Orange - power out to coil
• Black -ground
• Black/White - to kill

Some sources, including Maize's digram, show the orange lead going to ground, and the black going to the coil. However, the Yamaha Jog manual, (page 154 at the link below), clearly shows the black wire going to ground, and the orange going to the coil. It is unknown how this CDI could possibly work with the wires switched, unless some of the chinese copy CDIs have the wiring switched inside the CDI...

1987-1990_Yamaha_Jog_Service_Manual

Maize's jog cdi diagram

Maize's Jog CDI diagram, from this thread: https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,4168172

See Also

• http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,3146255 JBOT thread detailing adapting various CDI's to the stock hobbit points stator. TONS of info on CDI's
• Schematic with points - colorized version
• 1981 Schematic with CDI, Colorized version Note: Purple is used for G/Y.
• Example hardwire diagram for CDI
• Another fun hardwire diagram for CDI without rectifier