Difference between revisions of "Vespa Grande seat cover kit from Northwest Classic Seat Covers"

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[[Image:Old seat 002.JPG|600px|Junky seat]]
 
[[Image:Old seat 002.JPG|600px|Junky seat]]
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Most of the tools that I needed to install this seat cover kit are pictured below
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[[Image:Seat recover 001.JPG|600px|tools needed]]
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Quality contact cement is an absolute must. I use this brand for all my heavy duty bonding.<BR>
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I get this stuff in the paint section of Home Despot.
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[[Image:Seat recover 002.JPG|600px|contact cement]]
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To completely remove the old vinyl it is necessary to remove the aluminum decoration strip. It is held on by three rather fragile threaded clips secured by 1/4 inch nuts. If you just start twisting the nuts of with your 1/4" nut driver the could break off. Pre spray the threads with some lube.
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[[image:Seat recover 003.JPG|600px|lube threads]]
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The passenges hold strap is held with m11 nuts and some fat washers. This one came apart nice because of the spray lube
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[[image:Seat recover 004.JPG|600px|remove strap]]
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This next step is important as it will make probing for the for the molding holes through the new vinyl easy. Using your eye, line up a sharp tool so you can scratch a reference mark in the seat pan that will align with the location of the moldings holes.
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[[image:Seat recover 005.JPG|600px|marking holes]]
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Since you pre soaked the threads with lube, your 1/4" nut driver will easily remove the fragile nuts
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[[image:Seat recover 006.JPG|600px|molding nuts]]
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Gently remove moldings.
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[[image:Seat recover 007.JPG|600px|pull off molding]]
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You will want to try to preserve the seat pans rubber edge welting. This will protect your new vinyl from the sharp edges of the pan.
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[[image:Seat recover 008.JPG|600px|seat pan welting]]
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Unpacking the vinyl seat kit I can see that it comes with a sheet of instructions, A new passenger hold strap and I can see the vinyl is premarked with some white calk reference lines.
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[[image:Seat recover 009.JPG|600px|new vinyl kit]]
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I then lay the vinyl upside down and slide the seat in.
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[[image:Seat recover 010.JPG|600px|pre fitting]]
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flip the seat and kit all around so that you can check for squareness and that the stitched seams are falling straight onto the edges of the foam pad.
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[[image:Seat recover 011.JPG|600px|checking squareness]]
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Next using two of your clamps, anchor the rear edge of the vinyl so it will stay in place as you manipulate and glue the front edge.
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[[image:Seat recover 012.JPG|600px|clamp the rear]]
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Once again check that the side overhand is even and that the chalk reference marks are going to fall along the top edge of the pan.
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[[image:Seat recover 013.JPG|600px|sides even]]
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Give the front edge vinyl as slight stretch then fold and clamp so it wont move as you jump back to the rear edge.
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[[image:Seat recover 014.JPG|600px|clamp front]]
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Back at the rear edge, remove the clamps and then using  scissors or a blade split the vinyl along the stitched seam stopping just at the edge of the seat pan.
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[[image:Seat recover 015.JPG|600px|split vinyl]]
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It is at this point the gluing begins. Smear a good amount of contact cement on both the vinyl flap and the seat pan where the flap will be pressed. It is important that you let the glue dry  for about two minuets so that the bonding will occur immediately when you press the flap over the edge.
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[[image:Seat recover 016.JPG|600px|glue vinyl flap]]
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Now fold the flap over taking special care to tuck the vinyl under the pointed grip cleat. You can throw on a couple of clamps if you like but this contact cement holds "In god we trust"
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[[image:Seat recover 017.JPG|600px|tuck under cleat]]
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Next jump back over to the front edge and apply the contact glue to both surfaces.
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[[image:Seat recover 018.JPG|600px|glue front]]
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On this edge before the final fold and press, give the vinyl a good stretch back to front so that it is tight.
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[[image:Seat recover 019.JPG|600px|streach and roll front]]
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Couple of clamps if you like.
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[[image:Seat recover 020.JPG|600px|clamp]]
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Before I begin to glue and tuck the side edges, I like to split the lengths into four equal length flaps so that I don't have to worry about getting a bunch of wrinkles in the sides by trying to glue too much area.
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[[image:Seat recover 021.JPG|600px|split edges]]
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I also trim down the two rear flaps shorter because I have to work around the seat bumper stanchions. If the vinyl is too long it is difficult and messy to get the vinyl to lay down flat in this area.
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[[image:Seat recover 022.JPG|600px|trim off excess]]
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Starting at the rear stanchion area, glue, stretch and tuck the flaps, first one side then the other.
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[[image:Seat recover 023.JPG|600px|glue, stretch, tuck]]
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Using these erected clamps makes me feel like a pro upholsterer.
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[[image:Seat recover 024.JPG|600px|superclamp]]
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Mine that you probe for the little metal cleats and try to tuck the vinyl under.
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[[image:Seat recover 026.JPG|600px|tuck in cleats]]
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Yes you will be amazed at how great your seat is turning out.
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[[image:Seat recover 027.JPG|600px|Wow! looks great]]
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Coming to the end of the project it is time to re install the decorative trim. Using your reference marks use a small pointed tool to  probe the glued vinyl for the holes the trim bolts pass through.
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[[image:Seat recover 030.JPG|600px|probe for holes]]
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Once you have found the inside of the hole, poke till you dimple the outer vinyl ans then stab  from the outside in. I grabbed this test light to poke the holes .
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[[image:Seat recover 031.JPG|600px|stab both sides]]
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Slide on the trim.
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[[image:Seat recover 032.JPG|600px\slip in molding]]
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Install the 1/4" nuts and washers. This step the small nuts don't have to be monster tight. Just enough to secure the trim.
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[[image:Seat recover 033.JPG|600px|nuts and washers]]
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This last piece of trim really sets off the look of the finished set. It is the passenger hold strap. First look it seems to be just a decorative bit of folded vinyl but as you cut your bolt hole you will see that it is actually a nylon braided strap.
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[[image:Seat recover 037.JPG|600px|split strap for stud hole]]
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Get one side wrenched down tight .
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[[image:Seat recover 035.JPG|600px|wrench tight]]
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On the opposite side you might want to leave just a tiny bit of slack so that when you do the final wrenching it does not get pulled too tight causing unsightly wrinkles in the seat side.
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[[image:Seat recover 036.JPG|600px|leave slack]]
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Yes looks fantastic and my labors should add a hundred dollars to the value of this build.
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[[image:Seat recover 038.JPG|600px|looks fantastic]]
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I am now finished with this Wiki page. If you have any questions about the tips I suggested, or are having trouble with the process or can suggest how I can correct a mistake or to make the page better, contact [http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/profile.php?6,26847 Cheetahchrome]
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Latest revision as of 11:29, 22 May 2019

Seem like every Vespa Grande bike I buy for restoration is of course plagued with a dried, cracked and ripped up vinyl seat. In the past I would shop on Buy Sell for a better looking option that when I got it in my hands can tell that the 40 year old seats vinyl was just a few ass plants away from also being split and cracked.
I had seen a vinyl kit advertised by for a while by Northwest Classic Seat Covers and finally decided to try one on my own personal bike.
It turned out so good and has held up so far for 6 months.

My Grande seat


Here is a link to where you can get this same kit from Northwest Classic Seat Covers
Now here is the seat of the latest bike I scored and is going to be the precipitant of the new vinyl kit.

Junky seat


Most of the tools that I needed to install this seat cover kit are pictured below

tools needed


Quality contact cement is an absolute must. I use this brand for all my heavy duty bonding.
I get this stuff in the paint section of Home Despot.

contact cement


To completely remove the old vinyl it is necessary to remove the aluminum decoration strip. It is held on by three rather fragile threaded clips secured by 1/4 inch nuts. If you just start twisting the nuts of with your 1/4" nut driver the could break off. Pre spray the threads with some lube.

lube threads


The passenges hold strap is held with m11 nuts and some fat washers. This one came apart nice because of the spray lube

remove strap


This next step is important as it will make probing for the for the molding holes through the new vinyl easy. Using your eye, line up a sharp tool so you can scratch a reference mark in the seat pan that will align with the location of the moldings holes.

marking holes


Since you pre soaked the threads with lube, your 1/4" nut driver will easily remove the fragile nuts

molding nuts


Gently remove moldings.

pull off molding


You will want to try to preserve the seat pans rubber edge welting. This will protect your new vinyl from the sharp edges of the pan.

seat pan welting


Unpacking the vinyl seat kit I can see that it comes with a sheet of instructions, A new passenger hold strap and I can see the vinyl is premarked with some white calk reference lines.

new vinyl kit


I then lay the vinyl upside down and slide the seat in.

pre fitting


flip the seat and kit all around so that you can check for squareness and that the stitched seams are falling straight onto the edges of the foam pad.

checking squareness


Next using two of your clamps, anchor the rear edge of the vinyl so it will stay in place as you manipulate and glue the front edge.

clamp the rear


Once again check that the side overhand is even and that the chalk reference marks are going to fall along the top edge of the pan.

sides even


Give the front edge vinyl as slight stretch then fold and clamp so it wont move as you jump back to the rear edge.

clamp front


Back at the rear edge, remove the clamps and then using scissors or a blade split the vinyl along the stitched seam stopping just at the edge of the seat pan.

split vinyl


It is at this point the gluing begins. Smear a good amount of contact cement on both the vinyl flap and the seat pan where the flap will be pressed. It is important that you let the glue dry for about two minuets so that the bonding will occur immediately when you press the flap over the edge.

glue vinyl flap


Now fold the flap over taking special care to tuck the vinyl under the pointed grip cleat. You can throw on a couple of clamps if you like but this contact cement holds "In god we trust"

tuck under cleat


Next jump back over to the front edge and apply the contact glue to both surfaces.

glue front


On this edge before the final fold and press, give the vinyl a good stretch back to front so that it is tight.

streach and roll front


Couple of clamps if you like.

clamp


Before I begin to glue and tuck the side edges, I like to split the lengths into four equal length flaps so that I don't have to worry about getting a bunch of wrinkles in the sides by trying to glue too much area.

split edges


I also trim down the two rear flaps shorter because I have to work around the seat bumper stanchions. If the vinyl is too long it is difficult and messy to get the vinyl to lay down flat in this area.

trim off excess


Starting at the rear stanchion area, glue, stretch and tuck the flaps, first one side then the other.

glue, stretch, tuck


Using these erected clamps makes me feel like a pro upholsterer.

superclamp


Mine that you probe for the little metal cleats and try to tuck the vinyl under.

tuck in cleats


Yes you will be amazed at how great your seat is turning out.

Wow! looks great


Coming to the end of the project it is time to re install the decorative trim. Using your reference marks use a small pointed tool to probe the glued vinyl for the holes the trim bolts pass through.

probe for holes


Once you have found the inside of the hole, poke till you dimple the outer vinyl ans then stab from the outside in. I grabbed this test light to poke the holes .

stab both sides


Slide on the trim.

600px\slip in molding


Install the 1/4" nuts and washers. This step the small nuts don't have to be monster tight. Just enough to secure the trim.

nuts and washers


This last piece of trim really sets off the look of the finished set. It is the passenger hold strap. First look it seems to be just a decorative bit of folded vinyl but as you cut your bolt hole you will see that it is actually a nylon braided strap.

split strap for stud hole


Get one side wrenched down tight .

wrench tight


On the opposite side you might want to leave just a tiny bit of slack so that when you do the final wrenching it does not get pulled too tight causing unsightly wrinkles in the seat side.

leave slack


Yes looks fantastic and my labors should add a hundred dollars to the value of this build.

looks fantastic

I am now finished with this Wiki page. If you have any questions about the tips I suggested, or are having trouble with the process or can suggest how I can correct a mistake or to make the page better, contact Cheetahchrome