Puch wiring

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This page is for all information related to the wiring on Puch E50 and ZA50 engine'd mopeds with the points and condenser setup. If you have a CDI, please see Puch CDI.

Stock Wiring

Wiring block

This is one of the stock setups for the wiring block on a Puch E50 engine

Wiring diagram

An alternate stock wiring block setup, and wiring diagram:

  • Blue from the stator → blue to the coil, black to the kill switch
  • Blue/black from stator → blue/black to the horn (if you remove the horn, the blue/black wire MUST be grounded, or else the moped won't run)
  • Green/black from the stator → ground
  • Yellow from the stator → front of the moped to light switch, headlight, and speedo bulb
  • Green from the stator → (2) green to brake lights
  • Grey from stator → grey to tail light
  • (2) Blue/green from brake lights → (1) blue/green to brake light

This is a colored stock wiring diagram for a Puch

(click image to enlarge)

Modified Wiring

Often, people will simplify their wiring to remove electrical components that they deem unnecessary, like the horn, speedo light, kill switch, brake light, or turn signals. This can make the wiring appear neater by allowing for the removal (or shortening) of the wiring block, by keeping switches and wires off the handlebars, and by reducing the total number of wires. It also makes troubleshooting electrical problems much easier because you will already be familiar with all of the wires and their purposes, and because there are fewer wires that can become broken or disconnected. It's a good idea to check local laws before hardwiring your moped, because many states or municipalities may require safety features like a horn or brake light, and removing them would make it technically illegal to ride.

With brake lights

This diagram disables the horn, light/horn switch (light is always on), and the speedo bulb. It keeps the brake lights.

Hardwired wiring diagram

(click image to enlarge)

The wiring block would be as follows:

  • Blue from stator → blue to coil, black to kill switch
  • Yellow from stator → yellow to headlight
  • Green from stator → (2) green to brake light switches (or 1, if you're only using 1 brake light switch)
  • Grey from stator → grey to tail light
  • Blue/black from stator → ground (can be directly grounded; doesn't have to go through wiring block)
  • (2) blue/green from brake switches → (1) blue/green to brake light

No brake lights

This wiring block does not have the horn or brake lights hooked up. The yellow to the headlight will usually be hardwired on, although you could keep the speedo bulb and light switch if you really wanted to.

Puch hardwiring block.PNG

A full image for a hardwired and no-brake-lights system would look like this:


Wiring for Spark ONLY

Sometimes you have spark problems, and you want to make sure that the problem isn't with the wiring. If you JUST want spark -- no lights, no other electrical components -- then run the blue wire from the stator to the blue wire going to the coil (disconnect the black wire). Ground all other wires coming out of the stator, and also make sure that your coil is grounded. If you have spark now, and you didn't before, you know the problem is with your wiring (most likely with your black kill switch wire or with the blue/black horn wire). If you still don't have spark, the problem is not in the wiring (unless it's in the wiring of components under the flywheel).

Puch Korado Wiring

Click on an image to enlarge it.

Puch Information
Puch ElectricalHardwiring a PuchPuch wiring diagramsPuch Maxi Ignition summaryPuch CDI