This page is for all information related to the wiring on Puch E50 and ZA50 engine'd mopeds with the points and condenser setup. If you have a CDI, please see Puch CDI.
For a list of Puch wiring diagrams by model, see Puch wiring diagrams.
Puch Electrical Basics
Puch electrical systems generally operate by using a generator / magneto, whose flywheel is turned by the crankshaft, to generate a 6v electrical current which drives the ignition, headlight, speedometer light, brake/tail lights, and horn.
Using aftermarket upgrades, one can achieve features like voltage upgrade to 12v, battery power / electric start, LED headlights, etc.
The stock Puch wiring configuration is roughly composed of 5 circuits:
- Head light circuit
- Brake light circuit
- Tail light circuit
- Ignition / horn circuit
- Grounding circuit
For a detailed breakdown of these circuits, and detailed information on the switches and stock components, see the following Really super awesome stock Maxi wiring diagram PDF.
Again, if you're looking for detailed information about the Puch Maxi electrical system, study this excellent PDF wiring diagram. It explains the basic circuits as well as having a DETAILED BREAKDOWN of the horn/ignition circuit which can keep your 'ped from starting.
Wiring Diagram & Block
Basically a higher-res version of the stuff below.
(left → right on block)
- (2) Blue/green from brake switches → (1) Blue/Green to brake light
- Blue/black from stator → blue/black to the horn (if you remove the horn, the blue/black wire MUST be grounded, or else the moped won't run)
- Blue from the stator → blue to the coil, and black to the kill switch
- Green/black from the stator → Brown(s) to ground
- Yellow from the stator → Yellow to the front of the moped to light switch, headlight, and speedo bulb
- Green from the stator → (2) Green to brake switches
- Gray from stator → Gray to tail light
(click image to enlarge)
See this PDF file
Often, people will simplify their wiring to remove electrical components that they deem unnecessary, like the horn, speedo light, kill switch, brake light, or turn signals. This can make the wiring appear neater by allowing for the removal (or shortening) of the wiring block, by keeping switches and wires off the handlebars, and by reducing the total number of wires. It also makes troubleshooting electrical problems much easier because you will already be familiar with all of the wires and their purposes, and because there are fewer wires that can become broken or disconnected. It's a good idea to check local laws before hardwiring your moped, because many states or municipalities may require safety features like a horn or brake light, and removing them would make it technically illegal to ride.
With brake lights
This diagram disables the horn, light/horn switch (light is always on), and the speedo bulb. It keeps the brake lights.
(click image to enlarge)
The wiring block would be as follows:
- Blue from stator → blue to coil, black to kill switch
- Yellow from stator → yellow to headlight
- Green from stator → (2) green to brake light switches (or 1, if you're only using 1 brake light switch)
- Grey from stator → grey to tail light
- Blue/black from stator → ground (can be directly grounded; doesn't have to go through wiring block)
- (2) blue/green from brake switches → (1) blue/green to brake light
No brake lights
This wiring block does not have the horn or brake lights hooked up. The yellow to the headlight will usually be hardwired on, although you could keep the speedo bulb and light switch if you really wanted to.
A full image for a hardwired and no-brake-lights system would look like this:
A step-by-step tutorial for this setup can be found here
Puch Wiring Video upgrading to 12v lighting & turn signals without external battery source. Puch Premium Wiring:12v lights, horn & blinker wiring
Wiring for Spark ONLY
Sometimes you have spark problems, and you want to make sure that the problem isn't with the wiring. If you JUST want spark -- no lights, no other electrical components -- then run the blue wire from the stator to the blue wire going to the coil (disconnect the black wire). Ground all other wires coming out of the stator, and also make sure that your coil is grounded. If you have spark now, and you didn't before, you know the problem is with your wiring (most likely with your black kill switch wire or with the blue/black horn wire). If you still don't have spark, the problem is not in the wiring (unless it's in the wiring of components under the flywheel).
Important Puch Wiring Notes
The blue/black horn wire MUST be either directly grounded or hooked up properly for you to have spark, since it acts as the ground for the internal ignition coil.
Puch Korado Wiring
Click on an image to enlarge it.
|Puch Electrical||Hardwiring a Puch • Puch wiring diagrams • Puch Maxi Ignition summary • Puch CDI|