Difference between revisions of "Puch Maxi Maintenance and Tools Guide"
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Revision as of 11:49, 25 July 2015
This page provides an in-depth guide to the maintenance of a Puch Maxi or Newport. This is only a starting point, and can be used by new or experienced riders.
General Maintenance Up-Front Issues
1. Before you start anything, check your local laws on registration, licensing, insurance, and any other issues. You will want to take care of all of these issues before starting with maintenance. If for example your state requires registration, you may need to get license plates so that you can ride on the streets. It will be hard to maintain your moped if you can't legally ride!
2. You need both the owner and service manuals for your model. Many manuals are available as free pdfs online. You may want to print the manuals to have a hard copy, but this is up to you. If you can't find the exact manual for your moped, there may be differences. For example, the 1977 Puch Newport has wedge type handlebars and a different wiring diagram than the 1978 Puch Maxi.
3. The cost of maintenance is based on your available work space, tools, and experience. Someone with a well lit garage and work bench with a full set of tools and years of experience will have a far easily time than someone who is new to mopeds working in their living room
4. If you have just bought a used moped, the best option would be to do every single maintenance item listed in the service manual. The needs of your moped may vary considerably.
5. Do not buy a single performance part until your moped is running correctly as a stock bike. A correctly running stock bike means the following: it should start on the first kick, the bike should idle while the rear wheel remains stationary, and you should be able to reach 25mph. Until all of these can be achieved, you should never buy a performance part of any kind.
If you do not own any tools, the cost of tools can be significant. Additionally, there are many ways you can go about fixing things, so this is by no means the final answer. There are many ways to obtain tools, and the quality can vary significantly. Below are recommended steps, but nothing here is definitive, and many people will disagree or use other things, but this can be used as a starting point. If you find another way that works, by all means, go ahead, and please update this page! With experience, you can build up a tool set and buy higher quality tools.
1. Metric Socket set. There are endless options here, and any basic socket set will work. One issue, you will need a 30mm socket (this will use a 1/2" drive) to torque the steering head nut. A set of Tekton sockets is one options among many others. A 30mm socket will cost about $10. Keep in mind, you will need some deep sockets, like for your carb atomizer and exhaust. If you're starting out, you can probably get all sockets for less than $20.
5. 1/4" and 3/8" torque wrenches from Harbor Freight, $11 each on sale. There are many sizes of torque wrenches for reaching different specifications. You will need a torque wrench where the torque specification you're trying to achieve falls within the middle range of the torque wrench. For example, a 3/8" torque wrench has a range of 5-80 ft-lbs. It is not recommended to use this torque wrench to achieve values that are right on the ends of the values, therefore for a 6 ft-lb bolt, you will want to use a torque wrench. Many people recommend Harbor Freight, as the 3/8" and 1/4" torque wrenches go on sale for $11 each. You need to follow all torque specifications listed in the manual.
6. 15mm Cone wrench, $8.54. This is needed to remove the cone nuts on your wheels to access the ball bearings.
7. Bearing pullers, free. These can be borrowed from any auto parts store with a refundable deposit. You will need these for doing a bottom end rebuild.
8. Impact screwdriver, $9 from Harbor Freight. You will need this to remove the screws on the clutch cover and engine case, a normal screwdriver will be very difficult.
9. Feeler gauges. These are necessary for setting your ring gap, setting the spark plug gap, and setting your timing on points.
10. Timing gun. Once you've set your timing, it's good to check your timing with a timing gun.
1. Two stroke oil. There are many options here, so there's no hard and fast answer. One option is Amsoil SABER® Professional Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil, $12/quart.
2. Automatic transmission fluid. Again, no hard and fast answer on this one. One option is Cool 2 Cool CTF-R Clutch Fluid, $13.95
3. Loctite 242, $4. When you install any fastener, it is good practice to apply some threadlocker to obtain a better connection.
4. Compressed air can. You'll want this for cleaning out your carb.
5. Carb cleaner. When you clean your carb, there are several methods. You can buy a can of compressed carb cleaner, you can soak the carb in pinesol, or and you can use compressed air to blow out the jets. You will also want a very thing piece of wire to clean out the jets, a small guitar string or piece from a wire wheel can work. Thicker wire will not be able to get into the main jet hole.
This section really depends on the condition of your moped. You may not need to buy a single part, or you may need to buy a considerable number of things
1. Spark plugs ($4 each, buy several), new wire, and new cap ($3). I recommend purchasing new NGK spark plugs, and NGK boot, and a 1 ft section of wire. There's no need to buy a premade boot and wire, you can make this yourself with NGK parts.
2. Ball bearings and grease. You will want to replace the ball bearings in your front and rear wheel (some have caged bearings that do not need to be replaced. A set of ball bearings for a wheel is $2, so it's good to spend the $4 and replace all ball bearings in both wheels (if they both have them). You also need some grease, Phil Wood for $7 works.
3. New fuel line, 4 fuel line clamps, and in-line fuel filter.
4. Drive chain ($24.50) and chain breaker ($27). If your chain is old and damaged, replace it. If it's just dirty, you can clean and grease it. Instead of a chain breaker, some people have used a bunch and socket.
5. Pedal chain (about $10) and chain breaker (about $10). The pins are different than the drive chain, so either get two chain breakers, or use the center punch.
6. New tires, tubes, and rim strips. There are many tire options, one popular option is the Gazelle M62 tires. However, these are larger than stock, and there are issues with fit in the front fender and rear swingarm. Tires are about $60 for the pair, tubes are less than $10 each, and rim strips can be obtained from a bicycle shop (motorcycle shops may not have this small size on hand). Velox rim strip cloth is a popular brand. If you're replacing your tires, it's a good idea to replace the inner tubes and rim strips at the same time.
7. Bicycle pump. You'll want this to pump up your tires. It is good to check your tire pressure regularly, while the moped is cold.
8. Carb rebuild set. If your moped has been sitting for decades, you will likely want to rebuild your carb to replace every single piece in the carb that isn't metal. There are carb kits that include the float, gaskets, etc.
9. New bearings and seals. A seal set is $10, and you need 4 bearings. The bearings can range from $4-$10. A new set of bearings and seals should not cost over $50.
As a minimum, you will likely want to perform every single maintenance item in the service manual, plus follow Fred's guide.
1. As good measure, you will want to remove your carb, the intake, the exhaust, and the top end. This will allow you to replace all but 1 of the gaskets, and you can inspect the condition of your piston and cylinder closely. Removal of these components is easy, and should take less than 15 minutes. This should be a first measure to ensure that your piston, piston ring, and cylinder are in good condition. You will also want to remove any heavy carbon deposits on the piston per the service manual.
1. Now that it's off the bike, clean and rebuild your carb. Clean out all metal parts, using the wire bit to clean all tiny holes. Replace every single part that isn't metal. Even if it looks good, it's likely not performing as it should.
2. Now that's it's fully off the moped, you should inspect the condition of the cylinder, piston, and piston ring. The piston and cylinder should be smooth, with no scoring. Look inside the cylinder. You can remove the piston ring from the piston, and place it inside the cylinder to check the ring gap against specifications. If the piston ring gap is way too large, you can buy new piston rings. If you cylinder is scored or piston damaged, you should have the cylinder bored and honed, and you will need to buy a larger piston and piston rings to match. You can bore and hone a cylinder yourself, or pay a shop like $50 to do it for you. A new piston and rings is about $25.
3. Clean up your cylinder. Before you put the cylinder back on, install the intake back on the cylinder, and install a new gasket. Use copper spray a gasket for these three gaskets: your intake gasket, the base gasket, and your exhaust gasket.
2. Replace the spark plug, wire, and boot. Total cost should be about $10
3. Replace the fuel line and filter. Total cost should be less than $10
4. Replace every single gasket on your moped.
5. Replace the bearings and seals.