Difference between revisions of "Honda PA50 II"

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=Honda PA50 II "Hobbit"=
[[Image:Honda_PA50_II_1978.jpg|thumb|Honda PA50 II, 1978]]
The '''Honda PA50 II''', or '''Hobbit''' is a 50cc, [[variator]]-driven moped made by [[Honda]].
==Further Reading==
*[[Honda PA Body & Frame]]
*[[Honda PA Carburetor / Fuel]]
**[[Re-boring a PA50's stock Keihin]]
*[[Honda PA Drivetrain]]
**[[Front Pulley Specifications]]
**[[Final Drive Disassembly]]
**[[Starter Clutch Mod for Pull Starts]]
*[[Honda PA Electrical]]
*[[Honda PA Engine]]
**[[Splitting the Case]]
*[[Honda PA Exhaust]]
*[[Honda PA Manuals]]
*[[Honda PA Model Differences]]
*[[Honda PA Model Info]]
*[[Pulling PA50 bushings|Honda PA Motor Mount Bushings]]
*[[Honda PA Parts]]
*[[Honda PA Tools]]
*[[Honda PA Troubleshooting]]
*[[Honda PA Wheels]]
*[[Honda PA50I or PA50M Performance (or lack thereof - and what you can (or can't) do about it)]]
*[[Hobbit rebuild]]
===Service Manual===
This manual is for a 1983 [[Honda]] PA50 II, but it applied to all models from 1978-1983
[[Category: Performance Tuning]]
[[Category: Repair tutorials]]
===Parts Manual===
[[Category: Honda Repair Tutorials]]
[[Category: Moped Models]]
==Replacement Parts==
==="V" Belt===
Courtesy of [http://www.itslookingup.com/moped/pa50/tyskpa50.htm http://www.itslookingup.com/moped/pa50/tyskpa50.htm]
* The OEM belt length measured on the top side (outside diameter) is 41 inches (104.14 centimeters)
* The top and sides of the OEM belt (width) each measures 19/32 inch.
* The bottom width of the OEM belt measures 11/32 inch.
{| border=1
! Source !! Model !! Approx. Price !! Comments
| Mitsuboshi (OEM) || 23100-148-7030 || $60.00 || Available via Honda dealers
| Dayco || #17415 ''or''<br>13A055 || $12.00 || It is a 41.5" belt, slightly larger than stock
===Spark Plugs===
Courtesy of [http://www.itslookingup.com/moped/pa50/tyskpa50.htm http://www.itslookingup.com/moped/pa50/tyskpa50.htm]
* PA50 1978 to 1981 (Gap .028")
**Champion RL86C or L86C
* PA50 1982 to 1983 (Gap .030")
**Champion RL87YC or L87YC
Working on a Honda Hobbit is a bit trickier than more conventional style mopeds, like a Puch or Sachs.  To get to any of the good stuff on the Hobbit (the carb, intake manifold, air intake... and you will need to) can be difficult and intimidating at first.  But, with some practice you can have the thing apart in less than 4 minutes (yes, I've timed myself).  As you take things apart, keep all the nuts and bolts and such in a neat little pile or in a dish (you should do this with EVERY project you do) so you don't lose anything.  Here's what you need:
-17 mm wrench
-14 mm wrench
-Flathead screwdriver
-Phillps head screwdriver
-Needlenose pliers
-Vice grips/pliers.
-Maybe some WD-40, depending how dirty/rusty your bike is.
-From memory, wrench sizes are 17 and 14 mm.  If not that exactly, they're close.  Open-ended or socket is fine.
Here's what you need to do.  These can be done in pretty much any order, except you'll probably want to take the sidecovers off first:
*Take off your side covers.
If they're clean and smooth, you can probably use your thumb.  If they're rustier and dirty, use a screwdriver of appropriate size, as not to strip the plastic screws out.
**Unscrew the shocks
Use the 14mm wrench to remove the 2 bolts attaching the bottom of the shocks to the bike.  These bolts are easy to identify, they are rounded at the ends.
*Disconnect the thottle cable from the carb
Peer inside and you'll see where the throttle cable attaches to the carb.  Unscrew the phillips head screw and pull the cable out with the needlenose pliers.
**Unplug fuel line
Shut your fuel off, and unplug your fuel line from your carburetor.
*Disconnect wiring
This can be especially tricky.  All your wiring SHOULD be color coded, which is nice, in a nice little bulk of wires that come together on the left side of your bike.  All the wires snap in and out of each other, just pull them and the brass fittings will come right apart.  Remember where all of the wires connect to!  Make a mental note before you start taking them apart.  Most are pretty obvious.. red to red, green to green.  But there are a few blacks with different identification marks on them.  Be sure to distinguish between the black w/ a white stripe and black w/ a yellow stripe.
**Disconnect decompression cable
Use the needlenose pliers or flathead screwdriver to pry the decompression cable from it's springy thing at the cylinder head.
*Removing the main pin
Use the 17mm wrench to unbolt the main pin, and pull it out with vice grips or pliers, or tap it out with a wrench.
**Disconnect rear brake
Unscrew the tightening nut on the rear brake, and take off the little metal cylinder and spring.  The brake cable goes through some metal holes and sheathing before it gets to the rear wheel.  Thread it through the holes so it doesnt get caught on anything on it's way out.
NOW, the frame half of your bike will lift right off of your engine/rear wheel half.  From here, you can unbolt the carburetor/intake manifold.  In your little pile of nuts and bolts that you have been keeping in a dish is: 2 14 mm shock absorber bolts, 1 main pin w/ appropriate bolt, 1 brake tensioning nut, brake cylinder and spring.  The engine/rear wheel half will stay stationary on its kickstand.  Lean the frame half up against a fence, or if the tank is empty, you can just lay it down.  Note:  It is helpful to have a partner while disassembling, but it is not necessary.  I took my Hobbit 3-4 times a day for about a week by myself.  It's a bit of a balancing act, but with some practice it becomes second nature.
To put the bike back together, just do all the steps except in reverse.  This is also a bit of a balancing act, so I try to put the main pin and shock bolts back in first.  That way the bike is stationary to do all the other little things.

Latest revision as of 18:28, 18 March 2019