Hobbit rebuild

Revision as of 18:21, 18 March 2019 by Khool1499 (talk | contribs) (fixed broken link to one image)
(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)

From Maize's Blog

i have to rebuild my hobbit engine if i ever wanna get this thing running.

time to get chilly and hot! oh and the crank? its stuffed.

freeze the bearings and crank to make it smaller.

Hobbit Crank Freeze.jpg

Heat up the case to make it larger

Hobbit Crank Heat.jpg

Slide the bearings in the case when its still hot!

Hobbit Hot Bearings.jpg

LET THE CASE COOL. i waited 24 hours, because i was tired.

I like BLACK. i do a thin coat on both halfs.

Hobbit Case Gasket Sealant.jpg

Notice the long side of the crank? thats the vario side. dont put it in backwards. that sucks!

Hobbit Crank Install.jpg find some spacers. Go get your spare nuts and bolts.

See? these are my spare nuts. i like to keep em for random things. like using things for spacers.

Here i used E50 head studs to pull the case together. Double nut the studs just like you were going to put them in for good.

now use those spacers and stack things so you have lots of room to tighten the nuts down and pull the cases together.

When tightening the nuts down make sure the case is coming together evenly. I use a star pattern. Also if it becomes hard to tighten a nut, make sure your not bottoming out. You might need to put in another spacer.

Once the case half's are close enough, you can put your permanent bolts in. I always replace the philips with allens, because they are a lot less of a hassle and you can get them tighter.

For reference, a Hobbit uses 1 M6x80mm thread and 5 M6x45mm thread for the case bolts; 2 M6x25mm and 2 M6x40mm bolts for the intake.

Now put in the seals! i tap them in with a spark plug socket because its large enough to hit the case and not cause the seal to go too deep into the engine case.

Another Shot of the seal.

Now slap on the Vario.

Hobbit Variator Side.jpg

and i am going to sleep now.