Difference between revisions of "Final Drive Disassembly"

 
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First off, better pictures and tutorial [http://www.camino-tuning.be/handleidingen-howto-f18/plaatsen-malossi-polini-vertanding-revisie-achterklok-t13294.html here] but its not in english. And my photos are broken... I got mad after trying it a bunch of times and triple checking my filenames. Uploading photos to wiki is annoying and ineffective.
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First off, better pictures and tutorial [http://www.camino-tuning.be/handleidingen-howto-f18/plaatsen-malossi-polini-vertanding-revisie-achterklok-t13294.html here] BUT its not in english but still very valid.
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Here is a discussion on the subject: [http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?6,3054245,3178291 Hobbit - Final Drive Disassembly]
  
 
This is a quick overview on how to take a Honda PA50 or PA50 II final drive apart.
 
This is a quick overview on how to take a Honda PA50 or PA50 II final drive apart.
Skill level required 3/10
 
Tools required - Nothing special... 14mm wrench (oil drain plug) 10 or 12mm for arm, screwdriver #3 I think, Mallet, vice, torch for bearing removal.
 
  
You have to remove the rear wheel from the hobbit subframe.
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Skill level required - 3/10
Quick overview - 4 bolts on final drive ( 2 have nuts, 2 have them built into the rear drive ), remove the tensioner for the chain, remove the belt --- it should be simple!
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Tools required - Nothing special
 +
14mm wrench (oil drain plug)
 +
10 or 12mm for selector arm
 +
screwdriver with JIS bit or #3
 +
Mallet
 +
Vice
 +
Torch (Bearing removal)
  
Now you have a big wheel with the final drive. Hammer on that 7/8 12pt socket, impact it off with hand on the wheel / rim. slide the break hub off, now your getting there.
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You have to remove the rear wheel from the hobbit subframe
 +
 
 +
Quick overview
 +
4 bolts on final drive ( 2 have nuts, 2 have them built into the rear drive )
 +
remove the tensioner for the chain, remove the belt
 +
 
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Now you have a big wheel with the final drive.
 +
Hammer on that 7/8 12pt socket impact it off with hand on the wheel / rim.
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slide the break hub off, now your getting there.''
  
  
 
== Dis-assembly ==
 
== Dis-assembly ==
  
Drain Oil, remove 14mm bolt in the middle of the housing
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Drain the oil by removing the 14mm bolt in the middle of the housing.
  
[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_1.jpg‎]]
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[[Image:Finaldrive1.jpg]]
 
 
Unscrew the 5 screws, I used my craftsman screwdriver, with basically a JIS plus head on it. Not really a Phillips. I had to use the blk wrench to get torque on it!
 
  
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Scribed a line for the position of the arm and remove the arm. I did this, maybe you don't need to.
 
[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_1_1.jpg]]
 
[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_1_1.jpg]]
  
Scribed a line for the position of the arm and remove the arm, I guess you want it in 'Neutral' , flipped toward the ground when mounted to the moped
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You also need to remove the rear pulley. I would use a strap wrench on the thing or an impact and then the correct threaded puller so you don't bend the pulley.
  
So you have the bolts removed and the arm, you also need to remove the rear pulley. I would use a strap wrench on the thing. I didn't snap a picture.
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Now unscrew the 5 JIS screws. I used my craftsman screwdriver to take off the screws. The bit was a #3 Phillips though. I had to use the blk wrench to get torque on it! Impact driver would be ideal
  
[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_2.jpg‎]]
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[[Image:Finaldrive2.jpg|800px]]
  
Now you need to separate the halves. To crack it apart, you gotta hit it. Maybe rubber mallet. I only got some wood material, worked for me. Clamped it in a vice on one of the bolt tabs. Back and fourth a few times and had no problems.
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Now you need to separate the halves. To crack it apart, you gotta hit it. Maybe rubber mallet. A few smacks with some firewood worked for me. Clamped it in a vice on one of the bolt tabs and rocked the case back and fourth a few times and had no problems.
  
[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_3_apart.jpg‎]]
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[[Image:Finaldrivesplit.jpg]]
  
Weather I forgot a step or not, this is what you get. A couple washers in there, and some shafts/gears that sit in their own spaces!
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[[Image:Finaldriveapart.jpg]]
  
[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_case.jpg‎]]
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So with the two halves there is a couple of washers to take note of. There are a few shafts & gears that sit in their own spaces! Very important to place them back correctly.
  
One side of the case, lots of oil
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[[Image:FinalDriveHalf1.jpg]]
  
[[Image:Honda_final_drive_Bearing_removal.jpg]]
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[[Image:FinalDriveHalf2.jpg]]
  
 
So at this point you may as well remove the bearings and replace them. Its cool with me! Heat up the inside, or outside of the case, smack them to the inside, done.
 
So at this point you may as well remove the bearings and replace them. Its cool with me! Heat up the inside, or outside of the case, smack them to the inside, done.
  
[[Image:Hobbit_final_drive_Washers.jpg‎]]
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[[Image:Honda_final_drive_Bearing_removal.jpg]]
  
 
Washer locations!
 
Washer locations!
  
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[[Image:Washers1.jpg]]
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Picture of the tricky output shaft assembly
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[[Image:Outputhalf.jpg]]
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Cleaned up cases
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[[Image:Cleaneduphalves.jpg]]
  
 
== Washer Specification ==
 
== Washer Specification ==
  
'''2 x Small washer''' @ .94/.95mm thick, OD 18.6, ID 10.34
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'''2 x Small washer''' @ .95mm thick, OD 18.6, ID 10.34
  
 
'''1 x Large Washer''' @ .98mm thick, OD 27.92, ID 17.16
 
'''1 x Large Washer''' @ .98mm thick, OD 27.92, ID 17.16

Latest revision as of 23:50, 19 December 2012

First off, better pictures and tutorial here BUT its not in english but still very valid.

Here is a discussion on the subject: Hobbit - Final Drive Disassembly

This is a quick overview on how to take a Honda PA50 or PA50 II final drive apart.

Skill level required - 3/10
Tools required - Nothing special
14mm wrench (oil drain plug)
10 or 12mm for selector arm
screwdriver with JIS bit or #3 
Mallet
Vice
Torch (Bearing removal)

You have to remove the rear wheel from the hobbit subframe

Quick overview

4 bolts on final drive ( 2 have nuts, 2 have them built into the rear drive ) remove the tensioner for the chain, remove the belt

Now you have a big wheel with the final drive. Hammer on that 7/8 12pt socket impact it off with hand on the wheel / rim. slide the break hub off, now your getting there.


Dis-assembly

Drain the oil by removing the 14mm bolt in the middle of the housing.

Finaldrive1.jpg

Scribed a line for the position of the arm and remove the arm. I did this, maybe you don't need to. Hobbit final drive 1 1.jpg

You also need to remove the rear pulley. I would use a strap wrench on the thing or an impact and then the correct threaded puller so you don't bend the pulley.

Now unscrew the 5 JIS screws. I used my craftsman screwdriver to take off the screws. The bit was a #3 Phillips though. I had to use the blk wrench to get torque on it! Impact driver would be ideal

Finaldrive2.jpg

Now you need to separate the halves. To crack it apart, you gotta hit it. Maybe rubber mallet. A few smacks with some firewood worked for me. Clamped it in a vice on one of the bolt tabs and rocked the case back and fourth a few times and had no problems.

Finaldrivesplit.jpg

Finaldriveapart.jpg

So with the two halves there is a couple of washers to take note of. There are a few shafts & gears that sit in their own spaces! Very important to place them back correctly.

FinalDriveHalf1.jpg

FinalDriveHalf2.jpg

So at this point you may as well remove the bearings and replace them. Its cool with me! Heat up the inside, or outside of the case, smack them to the inside, done.

Honda final drive Bearing removal.jpg

Washer locations!

Washers1.jpg

Picture of the tricky output shaft assembly

Outputhalf.jpg

Cleaned up cases

Cleaneduphalves.jpg

Washer Specification

2 x Small washer @ .95mm thick, OD 18.6, ID 10.34

1 x Large Washer @ .98mm thick, OD 27.92, ID 17.16

Replacement Parts

These are the Honda OEM parts for the seals and bearings. Yours may or may not need replaced. Check your local honda dealer for bearings, or order them yourself from a trustworthy shop. Oil seal dimensions are in metric (e.g. "24X34X5.5" means 24mm inner diameter, 34mm outer diameter, 5.5mm thick)

For the pulley side,

BEARING (6201) 96100-62010-00
OIL SEAL (12X22X5) 91201-965-000 

For the brake side,

BEARING (6203) 96100-62033-00
OIL SEAL (24X34X5.5) 91203-148-003

There are two of these needle bearings on the gearshafts:

BEARING (1010) 91021-148-004