[b]Ten Commandments of Mopeds [/b]
1977 mopeds pron http://www.clubkristinarose.com/kristina-rose-hardcore/kristina-rose-group-sex-at-the-moped-shop/
Who came first the pipe the heat the port/s the crank the carb or the spark?
[b]How it all works.[/b]
Before you ride do this safety check.
You need the two stroke bush and AU atomizer on piston port setups and most reed setups.
The fore stroke AN bushing and AN262 atomizer will tune in just fine with some reed setups.
Most 17.5 to 21mm piston port setups tune in with a 39 to 46 plot/idle jet, 39/40/41 on 17.5/18mm, 42/43/44 on 18.5/19/19.5mm, 43/44/45 on 20/20.5/21mm, is what works for most,
(Note Reed kits tend to like a richer plot/idle jet, Reed kits tend to like a pinch richer slide to.)
Most 21/20mm PHBG's like a #40 or #50 slide with a AU262 atomizer, most use the W9 or W7 some need a W3/W5 and or #60 slide.
(Note the #60 slide might be lean under low rpm lode).
Most 19.5/18.5mm PHBG's like a #40 to a #50 slide with a AU262 or AU260 atomizer, most use the W9 or W7 some need a W3/W5 and or #50 slide.
(Note the #50 slide might be lean under low rpm lode).
Most 17.5/18mm PHBG tune in with a AU258 atomizer, and a #30 slide with reeds, #30 or #40 slide on piston port's, W16 some use W7-W3-W5.
(Note the #40 slide might be lean under low rpm lode).
Most 16mm PHBG tune in with a AU258 or AU256 atomizer, and #20 or #30 slide reeds and piston port, W9 some use W16-10-W5.
(Note the #30 slide might be lean under low rpm lode).
Most 15mm PHBG's like a #20 slide with reeds, #20 or #30 slide on piston port's with a AU256 atomizer, most use the W9 or W7 some need a W16 W5 and
(Note the #30 slide might be lean under low rpm lode).
19/21mm Jetting 84 to 104, start rich with a 98 and work it leaner till fore stroking stops at WOT.
17.5/18mm Jetting 78 to 96, start rich with a 86/17.5mm 92/18mm and work it leaner till fore stroking stops at WOT.
15/16mm Jetting 70 to 86, start rich with a 78/15mm, 84/16mm and work it leaner till fore stroking stops at WOT.
Then do your plug chopping to fine tune WOT jetting.
Plot/idle jet start with the adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns,
pilot jets tuning range is one size per 3/4 to 1 turn of the adjustment screw.
Set the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns, The rang of plot/idle jet adjustment screw is 2-3/4 to 3/4 turn's out.
So If your rich at idle with the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 3/4 of a turn or less, install a leaner pilot jet, If a 38 pilot is rich install a leaner/smaller number atomizer or a higher number leaner slide and install a plot/idle jet 40 to 45, 42 is what works for most.
Install a higher number plot/idle jet if lean at 2-1/2 or more turns out on the adjustment screw, if plot/idle jet is over 50 install a richer/bigger number atomizer or a lower number slide and install a 40 to 45 plot/idle jet with the plot/idle jet adjustment screw out 1-1/2 turns,
NOTE= Slide and Atomizer will dictate/control/change the range of the plot/idle jet.
Mid-range tuning lowering the clip 1 notch on the needle will make it richer, raising it will make it leaner.
You want to be rich with just a hint of fore stroking just before the pipe hits.
Do plug chops.
[b]Tillotson racing carbs[/b]
49cc up to 80c V1L, Honda PA, pug 103 & AV10 moby with stock cases.
Venturi 18mm throttle Bore 22mm good carb for a 49cc street riper.
Venturi 19.8mm throttle Bore 25.40mm
49cc spinning12K+ RPM or over 60cc, big reeds
Venturi Diameter 20mm throttle Bore Diameter 26mm
63cc and up or track 49cc setup.
Venturi 22.50mm throttle Bore 25.40mm
Venturi 22.9mm throttle Bore 25.4mm
The newer tillys venturi shape and bleed ports work so much better in the mid-range down to 1/3 throttle.
Thy get funky when your not quit on the pipe at lower rpms but that how it is with all carbs.
The spring rate popoff is the key to the mid-rang jetting = to the slide & needle setting on a standard carbs tuning.
What throws off tuners is the hi low mix adjustments.
You have to think of its fuel feed as tho it's running down a long pipe.
The first part of the feed pipe has a 4 way tap with the left tap feeding the low speed and the right feeding the high speed.
After the 4 way tap you have a flow diverting presser regulating bypass tap.
The flow diverting presser regulating bypass tap controls all flow / presser and mid rang mix adjustments, AKA the popoff spring.
But if your hi low 4 way tap up stream is using more or less fuel you will need to change your popoff accordingly for the mid rang jetting mix.
So the hi low jetting mix titer-totters with the mid-rang jetting mix.
And the low RPM & hi RPM mix adjustments have a offset titer-totter with each other.
The upper mid-rang tends to adjust a touch with the hi RPM mix adjustment.
So a rich low can give you a lean hi, but a rich hi will make your low just a pinch lean.
Most fuck up by having a rich low and go so rich on the hi speed adjustment that it makes the lower mid-rang lean.
[b]Batavus mods/clutch/porting & tuning[/b].
(1930) by Ralph Steiner
on line catalog
Find bearings' by size or P.N.
INA rod bearings
Drawn cup needle roller bearings with open ends HK to DIN 618-1/ISO 3245"
Rolling clutch and plain bearings, accessories, CK out the HFL roller clutches
Super bearings for chainsaws.
[b]Port timing math[/b]
Use your transfer port timing to calculate a blowdown starting point.
The trick to tuning in blowdown is in the way the pipe hits. wide power pipes don't hit as hard as a hi RPM narrower peaky powerband pipes for the most part. Centetbleed and twin bleed pipes hit harder and wider than 95% of the standard stinger pipes. Thar are two things we don't want to happen. Problem #1 Is at around 35% to 40% of your pipes powerband power peak RPM the pipes hit is colliding with exiting exhaust as the EX-port is in the blowdown timing stage. This slows the presser drop in the combustion-chamber and this will stall or back-flow the transfer ports. And this will make it a bitch to tune & jet with staling and back flowing transfers. To fix this you need to increase the area and or timing of the blowdowns flow out the EX-port/s. So we need to have are combustion-chamber presser mach or be lower than the transfer ports presser just as the transfers crack open. The lower the presser the faster mix gets flowing and more transfer port flow = more power.
Problem #2 You get power greedy and now have so much blowdown that the pipes presser and hits wave cannot hold or push the hit in on the up stroke of the blow down timing. Now you have so much fresh transfer mix going out the EX-port on the up strok you will have 50% less power in your midrang with just 1/2deg to much of blowdown. Just the chilling of the mix in the pipe will cost you power. Having a pinch to much blowdown Is ok on Pug's, Moby's, with clutch pulleys and other 7,000+RPM clutches'. And if you go a 1/2deg more you can have a doorstop.
So go very slow or do a old trick with a spar piston. The trick is you cut the top of the piston down on the exhaust side 0.5mm=0.020". With this piston installed you just bump the EX-port up 0.25mm=0.010" at a time on single EX-port kits, and test& tune till you start lousing power. kits with two or more EX-ports bump up 0.2mm=0.008" at a time. When you start to loose power Replace the piston and your golden.
Blowdown is best set up using a % of your transfer port timing as a base guide.
For single EX-port kits you want the top of your EX-port to be flat in the center of the top of the port. This flat area with shod not exceed ether 50% the combined with of the transfer ports or exceed 55% of the EX-port with. This will be close to 1/3rd=33% of the bore if you have good wide porting.
Blowdown tuning starting points for single EX-port kits.
16% to 17.5% of transfer timing with stock or weak hitting pipes up to 8,500RPMs with 154deg to 165deg exhaust.
17.5% to 18.5% Good timing for strong pipes working in the 7,000RPM's to 9,200RPM rang with 164deg to 170degs exhaust.
18.% to 19.% Hard hitting pipes working in the 7,500RPM to 10,500RPM rang with 168deg to 174degs exhaust.
18.5% to 19.5% This is near the max for most one speeds with clutches engaging in the 4,000 to 5,000RPM rang,
With hard hitting pipes working in the 8,500RPM to 11,000RPM rang with 172deg to 178degs exhaust.
This is the end of the road for 90% of the one speeds, now entering the variomatic zone.
19.5% to 20% Is for big pipes working the 9,000RPM to 12,500 with EX-port timings of 176deg to 180deg.
20% to 20.5% If you don't know what your doing just stop, this is for 178deg to 187 EX-port timings Spinning 10,000RPM to 13,500+RPM.
Now for the split/twin and three port exhaust with these you can have the flat area of the top of the EX-ports that is two times wider in the flat zone. So now it's close to 66%=2/3rds of the bore instead of one 1/3rd with the single port exhaust that's 100% more area. With 100% more flow area with we need less blowdown timing to mach the wider area cross section.
Blowdown tuning starting points for split/twin and three port exhaust port kits.14.0% to 15.0% of transfer timing with stock or weak hitting pipes up to 8,500RPMs with 156deg to 165deg exhaust.
15.0% to 16.0% Good timing for strong pipes working in the 7,000RPM's to 9,200RPM rang with 164deg to 170degs exhaust.
15.5% to 16.5% Hard hitting pipes working in the 7,500RPM to 10,500RPM rang with 168deg to 174degs exhaust.
16.0% to 17.0% This is near the max for most one speeds with clutches engaging in the 4,000 to 5,000RPM rang,
With hard hitting pipes working in the 8,500RPM to 11,000RPM rang with 172deg to 178degs exhaust.
This is the end of the road for 90% of the one speeds, now entering the variomatic zone.
17.0% to 17.5% Is for big pipes working the 9,000RPM to 12,500rpm rang with EX-port timings of 176deg to 180deg.
17.5% to 18.0% If you don't know what your doing just stop, this is for 178deg to 187 EX-port timings Spinning 10,000RPM to 13,500+RPM.
138-150: Stock on most Mopeds to keep you under 30 MPH.
151-161: Low RPM powerband timing.Good for low & mid rang torque power, up to 7K-8K RPM rang.
162-168: Very usable timing. Good mid rang torque & power up to 8K-9K RPM range.
169-175: Best all around power band timing. Good upper mid rang torque with hi RPM power up to a 9K-10K RPM range.
176-182: Gives weak power under 5K, good power at 7K, and will rip from 8K up peaking from 9K up to a 10.2K-11.2K RPM range.
183-187: Gives no power under 5.5K very weak upper mid ranger, some power at 7K, good at 8K, starts to rip from 9+K, pulls to the 11.5K-13.5 RPM range.
188-198:Very limited use. Almost no torque with a narrow high high RPM power band at Pro use racing high revs.
Old single EX-port timings chart/notes.
Blowdown of 16 to 20: Stock on most Mopeds to keep you under 30 MPH with the best MPG.
Blowdown of 18 to 22: Low RPM powerband timing.Good for low & mid rang torque power, up to 8K-9.5K RPM rang.
Blowdown of 20 to 24: Very usable timing. Works best with weaker hitting pipes. Good mid rang torque & power up to 9K-10.5K RPM range.
Blowdown of 23 to 26: very good all around Wide power band timing. Will work with most pipes. Strong upper mid rang torque with hi RPM power up to a 9.5K-11K RPM range.
Blowdown of 25 to 27: A good pipe is a must. Best all around power band timing. Riper upper mid rang torque with hi RPM power Wide power band with a big power hit. Best power for everyday use up to 10K-11.5 RPM
Blowdown of 26 to 28: Low power under 5K, Good mid range. works best with pipes that peak hard in the 8K to 11.5K range fading/topping out at 12K This the max for most street set ups.
Blowdown of 28 to 30: Works best with a tuned variomatic or shifter engine, Very low power under 6K. Weak mid rang under 7.5K. The power band starts to get narrower and more peaky. needs a HIGH RPM pipe. gives the best power in the 9k to 12+K rang, will pull past 13.5K with some set ups.
Blowdown of 30: At this point 99.% of you will just have a door stop. Very narrow power band. No power at RPM's under 8K, higher power at high high revs. You will fry most one speed well tuned clutch's to be able to ride with a blowdown as high as this, You need a well tuned variomatic or shifter engine that can spin over 14K.
Blowdown of 32+: Way too high for any 1 speed or 2 speed automatic. This is only ride able at the race track on the very very best tuned variomatic shifter engine.
As a rule of thumb, a blowdown higher then 25deg isn't for everyday use on an automatic with full clutch engagement under 5,000RPM. Don't go higher than 22deg if you don't know what you're doing ;)
[b]Piston Port timing[/b]
Your intake Port timing should not exceed 120% of your transfer Port timing.
115% will give you best all around performance.
Some have done as much as 125% of the transfer Port timing but with that much you may end up exceeding 160 degrees and need a weed blower to pressurize to the carburetor to get it started.
Piston port timing will start at 120deg-130degs to flow up to 8k-10K.
135deg's to 138deg's is good for street tuning.
137degs to 140deg's on a street tune variomatic, Moby, Derbi.......
Go over 140deg's and you will get lot of carb blow back under 4K rpm's.
If your ripping a powerband in the 9K to 11K range 138 to 142degs for one and two speeds.
If your slipping the clutch in at 6K+ and or variomatic hitting 11K+ 143degs to 147deg's is fun.
One or two speeds with clutch slipping in at or over 7K 147deg's to 150degs is a bought the max you want to go for off track use.
For the track with power bands starting at 10K clutch slipping in at 8.5K or higher one, two speed or variomatic spinning to 12.5K 152 deg's to 154deg's.
Spinning to 14K 155degs to 158deg's
The max i go is 160degs or it will get boggy when i blip the throttle and be hard to start.
It's best to have a wide piston port than wide with big timing for street use.
If you go big on the PP timing you will get big power at hi rpm's but it will be harder to tune low rpm jetting with all the extra blow back.
[b]Every thing K-Star / DMP piston port.[/b]
13 port. http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2118425
12 port. http://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2117338
Big carbs and swing arms
Making Peugeot 101/102/103 take off at higher RPM's.
Sticking stock clutch remedies for Peugeot 101/102/103.
Stock Peugeot 103 Variator Mod's
Peugeot 103 belt info.
With Variotop variator belt info
WIKI variator tuning information
How to put a MOBY CDI on a PUG.
PUG/MOBY HFL3030 Clutch pulley/bearing
[b]Exhaust pipes / Expansion chambers[/b]
[b]Center bleed pipe's.[/b]
Tune it in, do some porting, put a kit & pipe on it, look in the WIKI, read lot's of old post and links to see what worked for others, like this thread below.
[b]Moby heavy duty Eng mounts.[/b]
[b]Clutch Lining and Bonding[/b]
]Crazy Wayne's wet clutch snake oil mix.[/b]
1oz ester oil,
It was made to be used in AC systems and holds it's viscosity at very hi and freezing cold temps and it clings to parts better than most all other oil's,
In the 70's it was a secret to mix 1oz to a gal of gas with 2oz of dino oil,
Now it's blended in most of the best two stroke oils,
The Ester is used in my trans/snake oil blend as it will cling to the bearings making them last longer.
16oz peanut oil,
Peanut oil is a bought a 10w to 20w oil and was used in ATF oils in the 1940's/60's and can handle temps as hi as 450f.
5gram's to a max of 25 grams of sulfur.
I use the sulfur to tune the engagements slip/grab, It's used in type F-ATF and others to reduce clutch slip and over heating of the clutch packs on engagement.
It gives a shift a faster grab.
The sulfur melts/turns red at 115.21 °C, This when viscosity decreases as depolymerization occur and it pushes the oil off the pads/clutch so thy can grab before thy over heat.
The sulfur will thicken as the oil get's hotter this helps the oils hold there viscosity till it melts on the hot pads contacting with the bell and turns red changing it's chemistry as it melts.
[b]V1 stock clutch mods.[/b]
V1 starter clutch fix
V1 wiring Mods using stock CEV points stater.
The stock Ht stater winding is 12 volt AC and gives you fore up spikes and fore down spikes of AC pr RPM the HT coil uses just one spike pr RPM so don't wast the other 7 spikes, run your head light with them.
Wiring mods , Red wire/front side from 12 volt stater winding goes to the HT-coill,
The blue wire/backside is 12volts and can power a 12vt 35watt head light #796 if spinning over 9.5K use 50watt #795,
The stock lighting stater winding/black wire is 6volt AC but will power small 12volt lights.
Mod, use it to power rear lights like 12volt #67 #1004 or #1003LL bulbs
You will need to change your brake to Puch brake switch's.
Note if headlight blows out it wont run, but if you ground the blue wire it will get you going.
47mm and bigger kit's time @ 21deg's BTDC not 23deg's
The one squash band cutting techniques.
The biggest problem with the stock head for the V1 with a 47 mm kit on it is that the head gasket sits in a recess step in the seven mm to the outermost part of the head what happens over time is that carbon will build up underneath the head gasket as it is not the exact bore of the cylinder this carbon will build up to the point that it will gradually bulge out the head gasket at the exhaust side till piston starts tapping it at high RPMs do to normal rod stretch.
So what I do when cutting a squash band for the V ones is I clean up the step and take it all the way to the towards the center.
Then I Mark the outside with either a black Sharpie or die.
I usually go about a millimeter or so to the inside of the cylinders boar will sit in the head.
Then I start trimming the angle of the squash at 2 degrees then I change the angle 1mm before the Piston dome radius.
I hold back the one mmmm because Pistons tend to flop around slightly within the cylinder bore and I don't want to have a tight spot in the squash band.
I do not bother trying to match the Arc of the Piston due to the fact that the smaller area needs more squash in order to not have over acceleration in the mix causing detonation.
So I just go to the angle that it's at the base of the Dome and hold my two degrees usually ends up changing to about 5 degrees when I get to the spot of where I'm opening up the combustion chamber cup to get the proper compression for my setup.
I usually do between a 55 to 45% of squash area this calculation is very simple.
I use the dimensions of the boar this one is 47 mm so I will go with that.
If you multiply this by your crankshaft stroke you will have your displacement.
So for shitz and giggles we're going to calculate what a 7.5 mm wide squash band would be in percentage.
1.734X0.55=0.9538cc for a 55% squash area.
1.734X0.50=0.867cc for a 50℅ squash area.
1.734X0.45=0.7 80cc for a 45℅ squash area.
Now for my combustion chamber area I want it to be 2mm smaller then the actual inner size of the squash band. that will get cleaned up after the combustion chamber cup is cut when sanding in the radius.
1.734X0.45=0.780cc and a combustion chamber cut 30 mm wide 30X30X0.785=0.7065cc
With a 1 mm radius after sanding=32X32X0.785=0.8038cc of combustion chamber area at the transition.
Now I do my compression ratio little different than most what I do is I use the full displacement stroke of the chamber.
So 47X47X0.785=1.734cc X the V-1 stroke of 43mm = 74.56cc I'm just going to round this off to 75 cc's for Simplicity.
So a full stroke compression ratio of 10 to 1 I want my combustion chamber including the squash angle area to be 7.5 cc's.
A squash of 1 mm equals 1.734cc I want a squash of .75 mm so 1.734x0.75=1.3cc.
So the cut of the combustion chamber and angle of squash needs to be 6.2cc.
The trick I do to get a proper chamber cut displacement without calculating all of the dome angles is I filll the combustion chamber with Play-Doh I put it in a large syringe.
As I cut the combustion chamber cup I will stop and test it.
They take the syringe and I fill the Chamber of the head with Play-Doh then I press the Piston against the head until the Play-Doh is flush with the outer edges of the piston.
Then I polish the chamber and the head is ready to be installed with no head gasket.
I shim the base of the cylinder for proper squash and or remove material from the top of the cylinder till I have the squash I'm looking for.
I used to solder method with the head installed to measure my squash band
[b]Piston circlip autopsy[/b]
[b]Piston mods/Ringland porting.[/b]
Old SAE paper
I like moly-faced ductile iron and steel rings, moly works very good because it is porous, holds oil so it's more scuff resistant.
Piston rings alone can account for up to 40 percent of an engine's friction.
Thinner rings exert less tension against the cylinders = more HP.
Some have a special coating on the sides to keep them from sticking as they bounce up and down in the piston lands.
Good pistons today are made with more silica "hypereutectic" alloy pistons have less thermal expansion close to 15 percent less than standard F-132 alloy pistons.
SO hypereutectic pistons can be installed with a tighter fit by .0005" to .0015" depending on the application.
Hypereutectic moly coated pistons with gs on the side can handle even less clearance.
High temperature fatigue strength of hypereutectic alloys is better than either cast or forged alloys.
By drilling tiny gas ports in the ring lands, less side clearance is needed and ring sealing is improved. There is also less ring flutter at high rpm.
Ring gaps top or single ring gap .008" to .012" and make the lower ring's gap bigger by .002" to .004" so pressure doesn't buildup between the rings.
This will help the top ring to hold its seal and fluter less at high rpm.
You will have better hi RPM compression, piston cooling and less ring blow-by.
Nikasil which is a very hard surface finish. Pistons normally run with chrome plated rings (also a hard surface) and because of this you need to blast WOT to run the two parts "hard" to bed in to each other. Normal running in will not allow the parts to bed in to each other and will cause piston ring blowby. This will allow excess pressure into the cylinder wall gap causing oil to be pushed down an out.
If a Nikasil engine seizes, usually the piston melts onto the niksil surface and the bore can be reclaimed by removing the deposited piston metal off the bore.
Lot's of new ring coating's are available Japan likes gas nitrided, Europeans like a mix of ring facings: moly, chrome and nitride.
New diesels run composite coatings that combine ceramics, moly and other ingredients to increased ring life.
some rings/coating wont work with Niskl or chrome cylinders.
Chrome was used in the 1970's to line cylinders.
Chrome on chrome is a no no, chrome is not porous and wont hold oil.
[b]How to convert AC to DC with a DIY Rectifier and or install a 12v Regulator, light coils mods and wiring.[/b]
[b]Spark plug chop reading.[/b]
A colder plug will show color faster then a hotter plug and you chop it so it has pinch more red than tan in the color and it will be close to 2 jet sizes rich. http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html
Now go one plug hotter and your plug will read/be leaner, and safe, if the plug is not to hot for the compression and or peak RPM power.
I like running a pinch cool and rich on my plug chops, so if my engine get's hot on a long hill etc I'm tuned so it wont smear & seize.
[b]Symptoms of a bad condenser[/b]
[b]Setting up timing on E-50 & ZA-50's.[/b]
You need to find your TDC get a buzet gauge or use a piston stop.
Install piston stop turn fly wheel left mark it turn it right mark it TDC will be dead center of the L&R marks.
Now punch two marks on the flywheel at 15mm=15deg and 19mm=19deg clockwise from the flywheel TDC mark if it's a E50, counterclockwise on a ZA-50.
Time it at 18deg's to start and use a timing light!
To get the hottest spark gap the points at .016" to .017"
Use a B7HS in winter and a B8HS on hot days over 80f, gap the plug at .018" to.022"
[b]Spark plug chop reading.[/b]
Best spark plugs with points, NGK BU8H #6431.
And this one is special for low power CDI's it has a induction resister NGK BUZ8H #7447 plug prevents dead plug/miss at hi rpm's.
But you need to use the NGK 5K resistor Boot PN#8381 or the short LB05EMH PN#8338 when the BU8H is used with CDI's .
The BUZ8H plugs have a induction resister in the plug and don't need a resister boot & wire or a combo exceeding 5K.
Timing before jetting.
Timing will effect jetting symptoms.
Oxygen makes things burn faster.
Less oxygen makes things burn slower.
You get the best power at 11:1 to 13:1 with most pump gas setups.
Pump gas combined with 9:1 to 11:1 compression needs 20º to 16º BTDC for a proper power stroke burn with a mix of 11:1 to 13:1 with most pump gas setups spinning under 10.5K RPM's.
Over 10.5K you need to retard timing cuzs things burn hell faster in two strokes.
But you need less timing as the pipe starts supercharging/hitting in the powerband to.
Hell at 14K you might need just 12º BTDC with your setup.
This is why CDI's retard timing at higher RPM's
So if your timing is to late to give a proper burn in the power stroke.
It will give you the symptoms of being rich in the idle & throttle mid rang.
So you set the needle leaner, this makes the gas burn faster giving it more burn power in the power stroke.
But it makes to much heat in the cylinder.
And it will probably gave it a good blip on the stand to.
If you have to much timing you will find yourself jetting rich to slow the burn down.
It all needs to work together for things to work proper.
This why i post to set your timing before jetting.
Timing with points, for the 64 cc polini kits, I fond the sweet spot heat range for timing Is 17.5deg's= 1.25mm or 17.5mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 14deg's= 0.79mm or 14mm of flywheel rotation BTDC,
And K-star's and other kits any thing 19deg's= 1.44mm or 19mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 16deg's= 1.03mm or 16mm of flywheel rotation BTDC.
Timing CDI i fond the sweet spot heat range for timing these trets CDI's timing for the 64 cc polini kits
Is 17.5deg's= 1.25mm or 17.5mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 14deg's= 0.79mm or 14mm of flywheel rotation BTDC for
And any thing under 20deg's= 1.60mm or 20mm of flywheel rotation BTDC to 16deg's= 1.03mm or 16mm of flywheel rotation BTDC.
For most kited motors ruining under 11.2:1 compression & 11,500rpm's.
Timing for lowend will kill at hi rpm with heat every time.
Crankshaft timing conversion charts,
Degs to piston travel for puch E-50 & ZA-50
14 degs BTDC=0.789 mm of piston down BTDC.
15 degs BTDC=0.905 mm of piston down BTDC.
16 degs BTDC=1.028 mm of piston down BTDC.
17 degs BTDC=1.159 mm of piston down BTDC.
18 degs BTDC=1.298 mm of piston down BTDC.
19 degs BTDC=1.444 mm of piston down BTDC.
20 degs BTDC=1.598 mm of piston down BTDC.
21 degs BTDC=1.758 mm of piston down BTDC.
22 degs BTDC=1.930 mm of piston down BTDC.
23 degs BTDC=2.106 mm of piston down BTDC.
HONDA PA-II and Expres TIMING.
14 degs BTDC=0.782 mm
15 degs BTDC=0.839 mm
16 degs BTDC=0.953 mm
17 degs BTDC=1.075 mm
18 degs BTDC=1.203 mm
19 degs BTDC=1.339 mm
20 degs BTDC=1.481 mm
21 degs BTDC=1.630 mm
22 degs BTDC=1.786 mm
23 degs BTDC=1.949 mm
24 degs BTDC=2.118 mm
H.P.I. with one or two retarding curves start at 1.75mm piston down=21 degs BTDC MAX.
And tune/jet it in one jet rich!
Then work your timing up 0.1mm to 0.2mm max at a time watching you temp's plug chops/jetting, don't run with more than 3.1mm of piston down BTDC with the two curve box and 3.3mm with the one curve box.
H.P.I. MIMI ROTOR: Start at 1.9mm, and tune/jet it in one jet rich!
work your timing up 0.1mm to 0.2mm max at a time watching you temp's plug chops/jetting, don't run with more than 3.3mm of piston down BTDC with the black one curve box.
GARELLI and V1 CDI
Tomos CDI box and timing info.
Okay the trick to making the tools to properly install your piston pin clips is.
Go to a thrift store and find a couple of golf clubs with the steel shafts with multiple steps in the shafts.
Cut one of the shafts down and from the small end till you find one that internal dimension matches the diameter of your wrist pin.
Now cut the head off of the other Golf Club shaft.
Slide it into the one that was cut to the proper diameter from the large side.
Cut the inner shaft 1/8"1/4 of an inch past where it protrudes from the larger shaft.
Remove the inner shaft using a small Dremel cut off wheel that cuts about 1/32 of an inch slot.
Now on the internal shaft with the Dremel in hand-cut for slots parallel to the shaft from the small and approximately one and a half inch up the shaft.
Now take a small pair of needle-nose pliers to the four pieces protruding with the slots and give them all a slight twist so they are turned slightly 10 degrees or so.
Now spread the four slotted pieces outward so they hold their shape approximately 2 mm wider than they were on each side.
You might need to put a very small Notch at the end of the four fingers to the outside so the clip doesn't slip past the finger.
Drop clip inside of larger shaft and push it through with the smaller shaft till it's just at the end of it but not quite popping out I usually placed a larger shaft over a piece of wood and then push it down till it's just touching the wood but not popping out.
Note with some clips you might need a second inner sleeve to get the clip to compress closer to the end then use the smaller one for final guidance
Place tool against hole in piston where pin go send holding larger shaft firmly against the hole you may find that you need to chamfer it slightly on the outside.
Now take a very small one ounce hammer or if you have good skills push it in with your hand if you have a cap over the end of the inner shaft, and the clip should seed itself in the groove of the piston.
Now take a seal pic or a nice pic with the tip bent place it into the slot of the ends of the circlip and rotate the clip one time to make sure it is seated properly in the groove.
You want the opening of the clip to be open on the side that the crankshaft is so that if any detonation are intense vibration happens the clip won't bounce out
Do not have the openings of the clip at 3, 9, or 12 O Clock you want it at 6 o clock.