Results 61–77 of 77
I am assuming it maybe a condensor issue. How would one go about checking a condensor?Also if the condensor is bad, what would be the best condensor to replace it with? I can't seem to find a Peugeot condensor?I am really interested in replacing the condensor and the coil. I'm just not sure what after market parts will do this well and solve my problems, and I have little to no interest
So I am looking for the best way to fix the weak spark on my 103? I read somewhere about a Puch coil and some other work arounds. I'm am looking for something that is reliable and available. This "sorry none today" shit is driving me nuts at treats.It seems this problem is so prevelant that there must be a solution and tutorial out there? NO?Thanks in advance,Brent Braun
I seem to be having the same trouble with my 103 its just wont idle. I can start it fine but have to peddle it through every damn stop light in the city. I read this in the Wiki:"These mopeds came equipped with two different magneto systems made by Novi, the two coil and five coil magnetos. The two coil systems are notoriously fallible, and is probably the number one problem with Peugeot mope
Thanks rebel that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.Brent Braun
I'm still trying to understand how plug tempature and plug gapping effects performance. What is the best way to select what tempature plug I should be running? I have had people tell me what size plug I "should be running" but my question is how does a hotter/cooler plug effect performance? Also had someone tell me that if my pug won't run galled at .25 there is something wrong
Larry I appreciate your response but there is no way this thing will fire and run at .25 I'm now running a b6hs gapped at .16 and after it gets warmed up it seems to run good. Still trying to understand how and why to select my gapping.
So I finally got this thing up and running pretty well. I decided to do a couple plug chops to make sure all is as it should be.The plug is chocolate and nice on one side but almost white on the other? WTF?Thanks,Brent Braun
I am having a hell of a time making this thing spark right.Anyone running this setup have any thoughts?Dellorto SHA 1515 carb on 103 Plug and gaping recommendations?Thanks,Brent Braun
If I would have known Moped ownership was this much work I would have skipped having kids and just bought this thing years ago.So I have now switched over to a BR7HS gaped @ .016 and its running better than ever. The problem is now it will not idle and starting it is a bitch. I have adjusted the idle screw and it will either die because the screw is out to far or die as soon as I sit on it.I am ju
Looks like it also has a Dellorto high Flow air box.Thinking of going back to the Stock air box, as I plan to use this a s a daily commuter. Thoughts recommendations?Thanks in advance,Brent Braun
I may have inadvertently solved my problem. I was gonna heat this thing up and perform a plug chop to confirm my above theory. When I went to pull the plug I noticed the plug on it was an NGK BR4HS the plugs I had bought for it were BR6HS. I heated it up and performed a plug chop with the BR6 and it Ran like a beast and came out a nicely chocolate color. Would it make sense that the BR4 was to hot
My 77 103 losses power and back fires after about 3 Miles. I assume this is a sign of it running rich and pushing unspent fuel into the exhaust.If that is the case it seems I may need a smaller jet. I just wanted to check here to see if you all agree with my theory? Feel free to disagree and tell me that I am a jackass newby, Cause it true.Thanks in advance,Brent Braun
I was still in the "afraid I might break it mode" took it off tonight and after reading Cheetahchromes wiki was able to diagnose the problem. The crank arm was on to far and binding the pulley so the Needle bearings couldn't do their job. After I realized this I took it all apart , cleaned it up and learned a lot about how it works. Thanks again for all the resources.
I agree Jimbo gave me exactly what I was asking for. Not sure why I never thought about popping the belt off for pedal mode.I've been spending tons of time on here recently reading everything I can. I have to say so far its been very helpful and has saved me tons of time and frustration.
Its starts and runs fine. This issue is that the the cranks are still turning the motor when it is in the disengaged position. I was looking for a little more insight into how the drive knob actually operates and why it might be failing this way. I am sure installing and rebuilding the pulley will help me learn a lot about it. Thanks for the link showing how to replace the pulley.Thanks for the su
That makes sense, then that shouldn't be effecting my drive knobs ability to disengage? Upon further inspection I noticed the the drive knob feels loose and sloppy and when it is disengaged it will not provide enough power to start the engine even though it does turn the motor. I just ordered a new pulley I am hoping this will solve my knob issue.Thanks
So I recently got this moped and admittedly know nothing about it or mopeds for that matter. The drive knob does not seem to be disengaging entirely when switched over to pedal only mode. This seems to be related to the ball bearing in a hole opposite of the drive knob. After My son rode it. There seemed to be some damage (see photo) This may not be allowing the ball bearing to come out far enough