Results 181–210 of 2297
Legendre — 13 years ago
That sucks.. and really, if the tank is so rotted that it's leaking top & bottom, you wouldn't want to ride it anyway. Hit a big bump and just watch the whole frame fold up.Talk about your serious suckage..
Legendre — 13 years ago
Tate,When you pedal up to a certain speed, do both the lights and the spark suddenly come on at exactly the same time? Like someone just flipped a master switch - goes from nothing directly to a bright headlamp and strong spark?As an aside, did you check the resistance of the spark plug cap? It should normally read 5K.. some models 10K, but 5K is the most common.-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
The device you're asking about is the Zener regulator. It clips the AC voltage going to the lighting circuit at ~6V, so that the bulbs don't burn out at high RPM.If you disconnect it, I believe the bike will still run, but don't quote me on that. If you do disconnect it, and get the bike running - do NOT rev the engine very high. You might just blow out all of your lights if you do.
Legendre — 13 years ago
Brian,So in the end, what was it? And how did you correct it?-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
No, it's the gas cap _vent._ There should be a passage, sometimes it's just a small hole, from the inside of the gas cap to the outside. It allows air into the tank to make-up for the fuel that's flowing into the carb. Without some kind of venting, the fuel can't flow steadily from the tank.In any event, find it, and make sure that it's clear.-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
What would a bridge rectifier do? Do you mean to wire it, using only two of the four terminals on the bridge?-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
I have the C70 manual (1980-82 w/ 83/84 addendum) in PDF format if needed. Here is the link: http://nerp.net/~legendre/ma/C70Passport80-81ServMan.pdfZeke,What makes you think his valves are off? The problem, as he describes it, is that he's unable to adjust the timing (by rotating the points plate) so that it will time anywhere near the correct 'F' mark on the rotor. He has stated t
Legendre — 13 years ago
Brian,The fact that your points are on the crankcase means that they are not driven by the camshaft.. so cam timing issues go out the window. I'm pretty sure that the older C70 motors ran the points off the cam, but this must have changed by the 80s.If you are *sure* that the advance unit can only be installed one way, then there aren't too many other possibilities. If it's 180'
Legendre — 13 years ago
Ok, hold on a moment..Are your points located on the side of the engine crankcase - behind a round cover, or up on the cylinder head, behind an oblong cover? I see that the 1980 models don't have a contact breaker housing on the head..If they're on the crankcase, then the cam timing has nothing to do with it. The points cam has to be 180' off, however that may be possible.-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
If the advance unit can only be installed one way (it's keyed to one position) *and* it's off by 180' - then there are two options left:- The advance unit was disassembled, and accidentally re-assembled with the points cam 180' off.- The cam is 180' off. Thing is, if this were the case, I don't think you'd have any compression. Does the motor have good compressio
Legendre — 13 years ago
There are several possibilities.- It may be possible to install the advance unit (which carries the point cam) 180' off.- It may be that the advance unit was previously disassembled and improperly re-assembled (with the point cam 180' off).- It may be (as a previous poster suggested) that the camshaft (which drives the advance unit) is improperly timed.It could be any of these, or a comb
Legendre — 13 years ago
Something probably isn't assembled correctly in the area where you're working. If the bolt was previously broken off, that's a good clue that someone who had no business working on the bike was tampering with things. So, we'll keep that info in our hat for now..Most Hondas have three timing marks - T for TDC, F for fire (at idle) and a third mark (which may actually be two mark
Legendre — 13 years ago
If an engine has been otherwise running fine, changing jetting in response to some issue that crops up is about the last thing you'd ever want to do.The jetting is fine, something else has changed. If a jet change improves things, you're just masking a problem that will only get worse.Check out your ignition as Dave suggests (including the condenser, spark plug, spark plug cable & c
Legendre — 13 years ago
There's a gap in the record. What did you do to eliminate the lag coming off idle? Is the carb still in stock config, no changes in jetting etc?Interesting, how your work seems to be robbing Peter to pay Paul. There is still some basic, fundamental issue that's being missed. How did we go from an engine that had a big flat spot, but good top end - to one that has no flat spot, but no pow
Legendre — 13 years ago
The Columbia bikes I've seen used German-made Magura hand controls. Very standard, common stuff in the day.I'm not sure what part you're actually referring to (throttle twistgrip?) but any twistgrip part from a bike that has Magura controls will probably work.But I will say, that the plastic Magura twist grips were a bit scarce a few years ago. That might have changed, however.-Ell
Legendre — 13 years ago
Pretty simple really.. one (or more) parts is hanging up; specifically, the carb slide.Does the slide move freely all along the length of travel - easy to push/pull up, snaps back when released?If not, you need to determine what is causing it to hang - foreign object, buildup of varnish, distorted or heavily worn carb body/slide.If I understand your description, a problem with the slide is the onl
Legendre — 13 years ago
Inspect the piston crown & cylinder head for evidence of foreign matter (metal..) bouncing around in the chamber. If it came up from the bottom end, it may have left some signs before it got wedged in the exhaust port.Then again, with the Puch's horizontal disposition, it might also have just headed directly for the port. Check the pipe, see if anything is in there..-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
I have a used pulley that can be salvaged for the disengagement hardware. Unless things have changed recently, NOS or even good-used Motobecane pulleys are a hard item to find. If that's changed, I'd like to know..$10 + ship if you want it.-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
Is the compression release working?
Legendre — 13 years ago
You need to talk to Kaptain Kim, he has a similar if not identical model.But if I recall, Puch (who actually made your bike) liked to mount ignition coils inside of the frame, in those days. For some reason I recall my 250SGS having the coils under an access panel in the hollow frame...But maybe that was another bike..-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
Putting oil directly into a cylinder doesn't help compression by loosening the rings. It helps by (temporarily) plugging the gaps left by worn or partially stuck rings. It may give an engine, that is right on the edge, enough compression to start - and it may stay running, so long as the RPM is kept high enough.There really isn't much point in playing the guessing game - the only thing t
Legendre — 13 years ago
I can't make sense out of what the OP is saying. What is "the surface where the inner surface of the inner race meets the crank shaft"?This sounds like he's referring to the ID of the inner race, and "taking off a couple thou" would mean increasing the ID of the bearing.Good info or bad info, I don't know what he's talking about.
Legendre — 13 years ago
If I had to guess, I’d say that those rings weren’t sealing. It looks like carbon building up on the skirt area; very bad sign.A new piston with one hour on it shouldn’t look even remotely like that. You need to clean up & mic out both the piston and cylinder.-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
Oh fudge, wrong thread.. =P
Legendre — 13 years ago
If I had to guess, I'd say that those rings weren't sealing. It looks like carbon building up on the skirt area; very bad sign.A new piston with one hour on it shouldn't look even remotely like that. You need to clean up & mic out both the piston and cylinder.-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
Not sure on price.. or if it's the correct one for your bike. It's from a Puch E50. Bosh made a number of visually similar, but electrically different versions of their basic moped magneto.If you end up going that route, email me with all the numbers off the stator & rotor, and we'll see what we have. But really, it would be better to find just the coil you need. Post in the Buy
Legendre — 13 years ago
If you end up needed a new magneto, I have one..-L
Legendre — 13 years ago
How's the condition of the plug cap, and its connection to the wire?If it's the original Bosch cap, it might be marked as to resistance. Should be either a 5K or 10K part, which can be checked with an ohmmeter.if it's open, or wildly off spec, replace it with a new NGK cap.-LP.S. The Bosch caps actually have a replaceable resistor element, but I've never seen a source for them.
Legendre — 13 years ago
dupe thread
Legendre — 13 years ago
Generally speaking, coils are not interchangeable between points and CDI systems.I'd see about installing the points parts on the new rear-end.-L