Results 181–210 of 273
The loudness of the MLM pipe might depend on your cylinder. Mine was pretty quiet with a stock cylinder, but loud with a 70cc polini kit.> As for the mod, it looks simple enough, but I would have to go pick up a grinder, some cutting wheels, and a brazing kit with mapp gas torch.I used a Dremel and a cordless drill for the modification, which took all of 15 minutes. I had a friend weld it clo
It would be awesome if they started selling the heads separately.
This small modification to the stock pipe helps a bit. Also, they tend to run a little rich stock, so the exhaust clogs up over time. That might be worth checking.The MLM side bleed pipe isn't loud at all with a stock cylinder. It has a nice lower tone, but barely louder than the stock pipe if at all.
I probably have one lying around in my garage somewhere. I'll let you know in the next hour or so.
I bought this malossi H2O kit for my '78 Express, but still need a radiator and pump. For aesthetic reasons, I want to keep the setup compact in size, so I had my eye on the polini snake radiator, but a wizard in this thread said this is a bad idea due to the lack of pressure release and mismatched hose sizes. I also wonder whether the snake is large enough to cool well.I figured the mismat
Thanks for the info Aaron, I'm new to the water cooled game. Just curious: What's difficult about mismatched hose sizes? Is there some reason that you can't correct that with the two-sized couplings sold at auto parts stores?I'm trying to minimize bulky parts on this bike, hence my desire to use the smallish snake radiator. I would certainly like to avoid a battery and bulky
No thanks, my Express is battery-less and I plan to keep it that way. Besides, I kinda' like the idea of rigging a pulley system up to my flywheel.
I'm planning to rig up a Malossi water cooled kit with one of those snake radiators to my '78 Express and I need a pump and all the bits and pieces for rigging it up (belt, one of those flywheel nuts with a pulley on the end, etc).If you can offer something that would be significantly cheaper than purchasing this all-in-one setup from treats, I'll buy it.
A friend of mine makes saddle bags for bicycles and sells them on etsy:http://www.etsy.com/people/LoneStarThreadsI got some custom made for my Korado and like them quite a bit. You can probably find some Made In China bags for cheaper, but there's a case to be made for supporting the little guy (or girl in this case).
I have a BiTurbo and 70cc AluKit on my A3 and it works fine. I've had to replace the rivets once. Before I changed my rear sprocket, I had to be careful not to do wheelies. I still have more bottom end than I need. I hit low 40s easily on the top end. I use a 15.15 SHA carb.
Good idea with the BMX stem, simon. I'll try it out.
Apologies if this is a stupid question, I've never messed with handlebars and forks before.The handlebars on my '78 Express appear to be welded to the clamp that holds them on the fork (see attached photo). So it seems that replacing them would require a new clamp thing, but I can't find anything like that for sale.What are my options for replacing my handlebars short of getting a
I'd consider trading for a new Hobbit 46mm polini kit. PM me if interested.
square bing jets for the EncarwiDellorto 15.15 SHA with a lever choke is a good replacement carb for your setup, and will still work well if you want to upgrade your cylinder later. I run one on my A3 with a 70cc alukit and a BiTurbo and hit 42mph no prob with torque to spare.
Do you have a high comp head that would work nicely with one of these?
Do you have the fork lock and key(s)? Willing to sell them separately?
Sounds like you're making a problem where there wasn't one before. Before you contacted them, most of the rangers had probably never even thought to question the legality of mopeds. They'd be unlikely to hassle you as long as you're keeping up with traffic and not causing problems. But now that you've prodded them about the law, they've been forced to take a stance on
> also you'll want to get yourself a hole punch :)> nothing more frustrating than using an exacto knife to cut a small circle.. . then you go to bolt the gasket on and it isn't perfectly centered where you want it.I just use a hand drill with a 1/4" bit for M6 bolts.
I have a points stator, flywheel and ignition coil from an A3. Not sure whether or not it would work on your A35. PM me if interested.
Damn, no new ideas under the sun I guess. Maybe I'll tinker with the idea anyway.Good idea with the Hall Effect thingy, Mars. At the expensive of revealing my ignorance of analog electronics, why not just use a voltage regulator with the original trigger coil?
I was looking for a winter project to help me get acquainted with my Arduino when the idea struck me.A CDI box gets a 1-5 volt pulse from the pickup coil, then tells the ingition coil to spark at some (perhaps zero) delay later. Performance tuners want to control how that delay depends on RPM, but using something like an Arduino to build a CDI box is tricky because the ignition coil uses higher v
I have a stock NC50 exhaust, It came off a 1978 Express (not an Urban), but I think it would fit. I did this small modification so it's just a bit faster than stock. PM me if interested.
I found the part in a pile of nuts and washers in my garage. I'll mail it first thing tomorrow morning. Sorry for the wait.
If the surfaces on your head and cylinder are in good shape, you don't need one. Theyre designed to work without a gasket.If the surfaces are scuffed up and don't create a good seal, you can either smooth them by rubbing them on a piece of glass or buy a thin aluminum head gasket. I've always done the latter. You can find info on the first method using the search function.
Thanks for the shout out, Mike. I'm glad I could help. I thought I had included all the choke pieces, even the cable. Are you talking about part 9 in this diagram:http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-nc50-express-1978-usa_model7471/partslist/E++07.html#resultsI may have forgotten to throw it in the box. I can look around for it at home, but I'm out of town until Monday.
Dunno about setting a new spring, sounds like a pretty hazardous job, but you could do a kickstart conversion or pullstart conversion instead.
Shouldn't be hard to mount a seat on your handlebars.
Yeah, I'm two jet sizes from four-stroking and I'm idling fine. I sprayed carb cleaner to check for air leaks and found nothing. I had to grind the exhaust header and port to fit the MLM on my stock cylinder, so I checked for leaks at the exhaust header by feeling for hot air and looking for smoke, but detected nothing.The fins on the head are squeaky clean, but the cylinder fins could
Ryan, are you saying that there are no springs available to buy or that NC50 clutches don't have springs? Mine is 1978 1-speed and I'm 90% sure that the clutch has springs. It's a bitch to open the cover and check, but the shop manual has a picture of one:There are several 34-35mm springs on treats that I assume will work.I'll try to retard the timing and change the springs. I