Results 151–180 of 432
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
ive got it accelerating insanely fast compared to originalthanks to -82 cc's doppler streetcup pipe 19mm carb etcbut i can detect something flexing during the first 3 seconds of acceleration. then it disappears.can anyone suggest what it most likely is? what are the weak areas of 50v's?its definitely not front end, and it seems to be coming from rear of engine to back wheel. like a
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
how is this coming along?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
tried 1k 5 k 10k 20k and 47k thermistors but 47k still reads high at 52 deg C when it should read 21gonna try 100k NTC thermistor and will report back. they cost next to nothing.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
water is a product of the combustion process and usually disappears when the motor gets hot.you followed a car and seen the water dripping out of the exhaust?the gasket leaks wont have contributed to water being sucked in, just made your fuel mix weaker.higher humidity in the air maybe makes for more water production in the combustion process?either way i wouldnt worry unless you still get that &q
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
warning crap sound, campark action cam v30 beer gut mounted harnessapologies for turning this thread into a me me me kinda thing but im buzzing as this is the best thing fun wise ive ever ridden and ive had a few bikes.Seems just about right the way the clutch bites and the variator takes over.47mph in 225 metres. i might play with sprockets to go for top speed which i reckon is gonna be around hi
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
i once started my rd350 up and rode it only for a very short distance and switched off and took heads off to find EXACTLY the same as your pics. watery milky oily fluid everywhere as if i had a leaking head gasket on a water cooled motor.cept mine was air cooled. so i just assume this is what happens when you start up and dont get engine to full operating temp before stripping down.ethanol absorbs
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
got mine accelerating off the line like thisstd everything but worn down clutch pads almost down to metal big wide mallosi belt and rebel mobys std contra spring rubber tube and bolt stiffener mod.plus the starter clutch arms removed.its pulling that hard in the first 3 seconds you can feel something im guessing framewise stressing and flexing that shouldnt.just need to take the doppler street cu
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
mine doesnt have wires just a silver terminal top and bottom of the battery.the top one (as you look from the back as you expose it) is actually "riveted" permanently looks like its welded but it isnt? might be? . when i say top i actually mean top when looking from where you are excavating.from the display jbot you are right its bottom.this took great care to get off the battery. but i
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
> Dirty30 Dillon Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> What your describing is a 4k clutch engagement followed by mis-tuned> variationyet another clutch cover with 4 pads bites at say 5.5krpm and hovers their till accel catches up with road speed then it starts variating.so i not only have to get the pads to bite at the right revs but then also get the variat
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
jbot i saw your oem moby clutch pad spring mod but due to having no springs instead i tried to anchor the arms of the pads closer by drilling tapping and screwing in a countersunk M4 screw 12mm away from last rivet. hardly made any difference. this was a 3 pad clutch.in fact it bites at lower revs than the cheapo 4 pads available in europe and i presume they are readily available for you. they a
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
first i looked at a pic of where the battery is situated and then cut a smaller square central to the battery in the plastic back with a dremel and cut off wheel, only going 2mm deep or so till i could see a hint of shiny metal (battery)i cut this square completely off exposing part of the battery.then i slowly increased the size of the hole.for some reason i have developed decent hand eye coordi
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
im lyingat 12.5 deg C it reads 77and at 36 deg C it reads 90i suppose i could check it at 100 and at 0 and plot a graph and then just convert it on the fly in my brain.but it would be nice to get the right sensor so as to read accurately.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
hmmm. never thought about the spring robbing power.i'm using the original spring with rebel mobys "rubber tube squashed by a bolt to stiffen it up" mod.im thinking now im too stiff
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
I'm getting the feeling my unit isnt the same as ones described on this thread as there are no tiny wires. to get to the battery i had to carefully dremel a hole in the back and then carefully gouge the grey epoxy out with a jewellers pick axe.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
IMG_0510 by Ghengis Khan, on Flickr
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
IMG_0512 by The King of England, on Flickr
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
IMG_0511 by alan jackson, on Flickr
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
https://flic.kr/p/2m7Ct6vhttps://flic.kr/p/2m7zDjSneat or what? i should be an insect heart surgeon.using the sensor off ebay for £2.65 at body temp it reads 90 deg C (should be 36?)and when i put it on my cold vice with air temp around 20 degrees C it drops to 80 deg Ccan anyone check those thermistor specs and come up with what i really need.this is the listing on ebay its NTC btwhttps://www.eb
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
I have sucessfully managed to open a TTO trailtech and changed the battery. quite a neat job too.but i havent got the original sensor.i want to make one. i believe have to add a thermistor somewhere near the copper washer under the plug. has anyone done this? do i need ptc or ntc?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
lessons learned thx jbotive got an av10 motor to play with
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
well i fitted the 44.9mm stroke crank in my av7 together with an airsal 47mm cylinder and i had to pack the cylinder up to get 0.7mm deck height.this gave me a transfer duration of 130 degrees!!!11k rpm.the rest of the ports with normal stroke crank were perfect for 7k rpm.so i raised the exhaust 3mm to give me the correct duration and blowdown for 10kthe inlet timing was like 146 degrees (pisto
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
the pilot jets are sometimes un numbered and the atomiser can be the four stroke type. and the needles have all been too thin for me, but i bought a box of 10 spare needles to play with.the black carbs get a lot of the paint coming off and finding its way into the float bowl and bunging the pilots up. but it soon clears up.i like them, i have 3 of them on my puch M50 paloma and 50v and if i can tu
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
thanks
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
ive just bought a longer stroke crank for my av744.9mmonly needed 2mm gaskets under my airsal 47mm cyljust about to fit some shims as atm it could wander and hit the crankcases.https://www.rrd-preparation.com/en/crankshaft-connecting-rod-mbk-51-motobecane-av10/23209-crankshaft-crankshaft-reinforced-rrd-long-stroke-44-9mm-mbk-51-motobecane-av10-av7.htmlthe english is a bit dodgy, but quaint.
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
i think you should start a new thread Lucas Ribeirocan someone translate that for him please?
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
i can see 42mm od but they are 30mm id and will cover most of the balls and hamper their lubricationi cant imagine you can machine shims down accurately?or can you?(reaches for the dremmel)
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
ive got bearings to check for play and required shim thicknessthat isnt my problemmy problem is how do i shim an av10 with the rounder chamfer on the crank and bearing?i now dont think i can shim the inner race because of this chamfer so it must be the outer race in the crankcasesbut that would mean a shim of 42mm od and 33.5 id0.6mm thickwhere on earth am i going to source them?surely im not the
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
i noticed when fitting a new crank in the cases with "dummy" bearings (sanded down to slip fit) i had 1.5mm in total gap between web and crankcases. due to the slip fit bearings i could move the crank 1.5mm either way to touch each web.so it needs shimming to centralise it but because the crank has a shamfered curved taper to match the bearings, the shim cant be 16mm or it rests on the
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
fiited a streetcup doppler but i think its tuned to higher revs than my 7k rpm portingfrom a 10mph rolling start im hitting 49mph gps after 400 metres and im happy enough as its still accelerating so maybe low 50's.halfway through making my own pipe at the weld stage. i've been putting it off.
Alan Jackson — 2 years ago
bike was a 50 v with an av7 motor and av7 exhaustyou with me?i fitted a parmakit 82cc motor (av10) (dont think they do av7?)and needed an exhaust.you still with me?so i bought the exhaust in the pic cos my av7 exhaust wouldnt fit.still there?so you can see how ive never owned a std av10 pipe.anyway none of that matters. i just need to know if this pipe is moddable.