Results 91–120 of 432
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
im in east yorkshire. we are getting a bit too pc in the uk with everything.i used to use calculations based on jennings and bell but then found blairs theories. (dont even try to read his book)and i found a couple of simple calculators based on his findings and sort of used both then went down the middle. you can tailor the pipe to suit peak power and big or little hit at the expense of spread o
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
sorry mis-typemy adjusting screws are fully ANTI clockwise
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
im having problems setting up the stall point.as supplied the bite point or stall point is around 7k rpmi want it lower. so i fit weaker springs. much weaker springs and the stall point goes up to 8k rpm or maybe higher. wtf?i added tiny lead weights to arms at the furthest end from pivot to help them bite and this has no effect.why do weaker springs increase the rev stall point?i cant believe it
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
> Dirty30 Dillon wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> > Tweaker trash wrote:>> > ------------------------------------------------------->> > Dude where the fuck don’t live? Dam do>> And can have a double into let begin, hahahah them do as to many.ive tried decyphering that but gave up....
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
thanks for that jbotthat looks like the way im gonna goi do like cheap
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
no that pic was just showing off how clever i am modding someone elses (your) mod.im now running an er3 variator without clutchand an er86 clutch pulley.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
thanks for the advice. i did have the maximum weight (provided) attached to the er3.so to my thinking there was too much sprung effect to allow the belt to move outwards engine backwards and cheeks in. so i took off all the weights and of course it didnt variate. i then reduced the strength of my counter spring to stock and it still wouldnt variate. i added weights slowly until it did start to var
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
bet the neighbours like it.....
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
yeah its bolted to the flywheel, i drilled and tapped threads in it.its been solid and hasnt budged.the pipe is 1mm mild steel and i used a small hand roller bought off ebay 10 years ago for £45but the rollers were too big for most of the sections so i had to get creative and used a combination of jubilee clips and socketsi just tightened the sections onto the right sized socket using jubilee cl
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
ive done some searching and see its a variator bounce.im using the stock counterspring slightly stiffened a la rebel moby mod rubber tube with bolt but not tightened much.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
on my 50v with AV10 motor and er3 variator and er86 clutch pulley.could my belt be slipping? its a malossi and seems a little too wide for the clutch pulley whats a good belt to use with the doppler stuff? or has anyone else had this problem and can offer a solution?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
weaker springs made no difference?im uploadind a vid on a new thread highlighting a weird problem
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
ive taken the clutch to bits. the shoes were free to move, i could move them before taking the bell off. it came with a spare set of stronger springs. so im looking for some weaker springs.until then ill make my own out of piano wire, a vice and a drill and a load of prayers.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
it was bought off ebay about £5 ukgbphttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263389824776?hash=item3d5341c708:g:ovQAAOSwV~VaNEhPits bolted ( x 2) to the rotor, checking enough clearance for the nuts to miss the important lectric bits underneath. i think i eventually drilled and threaded the rotor some new holes but added some nuts as a precaution.i did have a big lawnmower pull start but it was adding weight
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
i dont think its the idler bearing versionit just bolts on and is solid. not clutch or kickstart versioni havent taken the er86 clutch bell off yet but i will later today. i turned the adjusting screws as far anti clockwise as i could. they were set quite near to this point. if i turn them clockwise i feel them tensioning up the springs so am sure i have it set to weakest.i had copied your clutch
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
lol i realised exactly that re support platesi cut a stinger sized hole hole in a small piece and welded that over the top of the stinger exit and it looks very strong now.in this pipe the stinger end is very close to the motor so i could weld a bracket and fasten to motorbut in other pipes i will try uning a bracket to help the sidebleed stay attached.ive rubber mounted the rear of the pipe as i
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
its a newly fitted er3i dont think it is slippingill have a good looki might be able to mount a camera to see whilst riding
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
where did you buy the "weaker" springs?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
lots of holes to fill at the end cos my welding is crapbut it has a nice powerband that starts low and keeps coming.the stinger snapped offprob due to the swivelling doppler pipe bracket used as a mount for the silencer not quite right
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
BUMPthe standard springs fitted in my er86 are biting at around 8k which is too high for mylow tuned motor.5 years on from this thread are weaker ones now available?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
i tried tig welding some better anchor points to the ends of the clutch leafs to hang the springs. but it must be some fancy kind of metal because the weld wouldnt "stick" and then all of a sudden it melted and fizzled up.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
studs might need relocating? i cant imagine 56mm bore would have the same stud spacing. plus a 49mm stroke crank would be required. doubt the std rgv would have the tapers to accept the moby clutch and ignition. its doable i suppose. plus a bit easier if you have access to a machine shop.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
im a foolobviously you cant secure the springs to a plate thats attached to the wrong part....ive ground the arms bracket off - ready to weld it to the clutch back and will wait for any suggestions about mounting the springs. if not i will go ahead and copy
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
cant you just fit a yb100 motor?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
i know im resurrecting an old post but ive got a spare clutch and i want to do this mod.my present clutch bites at about 5-6k but only because the material has almost worn off the leafs and i am getting sparks. looks great at night. ill have to do a video.but it aint gonna last long so i want to do this.in the time that has passed have you (or anyone else) modified or improved this mod?i havent go
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
heres the prooffitted a k&n clone instead of the bottle air box and started off at 98 main jet and painstakingly went down a couple of sizes till i hit 76. still rich at 7/8ths throttle so got to keep it pinned wide open.honest officer.but no sign of the weird noise/warbling.disguised by alan jackson, on Flickr
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
DO NOT DO THIS MODthe bottle is too thinly walled and it starts to vibrate and resonate and makes your motor run weird - making warbling noises and sounding like its in stereo.ADMINfeel free to delete this thread
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
olive oilespecially if you have an italian ped.but dont whatever you do use the bottles to make airboxes.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
problem solvedit was my air box mod.DO NOT DO THIS MOD ITS RUBBISHhttps://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,4459612,4459931,flat=1#msg-4459931i found out by taking the bottle off the hose and simply attaching a K&N clone to the hose and a quick ride and the bike revved to the moon with no warbling noise. i suspect i'm now a bit weak so am doing some jetting runs.the walls of the olive o
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
this explains the theoryhttps://www.globaloring.com/o-ring-groove-design/