Results 61–90 of 432
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
im watching this project with interest. is there a better reed conversion available than the one you are using? i have a cylinder with inlet timing that is far too high as ive put it on a different stroke crank.i use 19mm phbg clones on all my mopeds. i read some use 21mm or big mikunis
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
got it engaging at roughly 5 k. 0-30 in 50 metres. i'd like 6k so a bit more tweaking to be done yet. but it seems reliable or regular and constant.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
im sure i read a long time ago (jennings?) that much of the benefits of intake tuning is lost on reed valve motors.but i remember seeing formula to work out the desired tuned length.much like with exhaust pipes. get it right and its free power. im gonna read up on jennings and bell. (cant understand blair)
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
squish gap is a million times more important than getting piston level with ports at bdc. instead of the expected vortex created by the raised piston in the port window the gases actually adhere to the piston and allow a more fluid flow. this was proven in the 1970's. i can link to some SAE papers. some manufacturers design their ports like this at bdc. and think about it. the piston is block
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
would an old motul 710 or 800 2stroke oil bottle do? or is it best to have a round bottle.i have a few empties kicking about in the garage.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
this is the angle the springs need to be if using more than 2 springs. the angle of the tension keeps the leaves from bending upwards in the middle. 6k rpm engagement or stall has been acheived.luckily i didnt have to re weld anything. i just moved the anchor point of the spring like so. ill post a video at the weekend as its now dark when i get home from work.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
anyone trying this mod DO NOT attach the springs as in the last pic. the spring actually pulls the leafs back onto themselves so the middle is curved up. a bit like curving a playing card in your hand. the more you squeeze the more curved upwards it bends. as i tried stronger springs the penny soon dropped when i couldnt even fit the drum back on because the middles of the leafs were forced out t
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
ive just realised i spend ages working out pulse speeds gas temps and lengths to reflect pulses at the right rpm for exhausts yet totally ignore the inlet side. im thinking you want a stuffing pulse to return to the reed right on thr point of closing at peak power rpm. or lower rpm if you want more spread. i knew intake tuning was a thing having read jennings book nearly 40 years ago. just never
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
lol good idea. or how about clear tubing stuck to the outside so you could see it in action? would that actually help balance it or would the lead just get flung randomly all over the place?ive had front wheel off and been waiting for some brake shoes to arrive from france so been unable to test the adjustability. shoes arrived yesterday
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
haha.nice feeling being amongst kindred spirits
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
graham thats a fantastic idea. and brianf i havent balanced it. i didnt even consider that. my pal owns a tyre fitting balancing machine would that do it? im assuming you do mean weight balancing? looking at the pic i can see the left bolt is longer than the rest but there are two extra nuts on the top screws. im thinking adding more nuts where weight is needed would be a good way to balance i
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
finished the 4 leaf adjustable clutch bellquick test run with barely tensioned springs and it stalls at around 4500 rpmi can either measure the length of all the springs or count the turns of the nuts/flats to ensure parityim wondering if a few holes in the face would aid cooling? im not too bothered about weight saving but do like the look of weldwizard jakes mod
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
you can weld a mild steel tag to the end of the leaf spring if you grind the leaf metal back to shiny metal.and here is my mk2 version with adjustable tension.but there isnt enough surface area with two arms so im going for 4. and should have that welded up and running by dinner uk time.as it is i adjust the tension so the bite point (stall ) is at say 5k rpm for 2 seconds and the bike is moving
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
i like the industrial look of mild steel all blued and heated and almost rusty. plus my welds would need a lot of grinding before going anywhere near a chromers.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
ive been awaay on hol for a week. and during that time a french guy pointed out that doppler claim the er86 only works between 7k and 11k.its on the tech info on their website.oh well, ill save it for another high revving build.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
brilliant ideamy brain is doing somersaults trying to "invent" something similarbut for now ill copy your set upim assuming theres no patent?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
that looks and sounds very naughty.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
i do wish i'd done a little more research before buying this thing.im going back to the std pulley and std variator/clutch but the clutch will be modded a la jbot with sprung leaves. a slight addition of adjustability but the same principal.i have been emailing doppler and they have been replying promptly and their conclusion is my engine is too powerful.???i havent even told them anything
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
cheers jbot
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
im thinking i can hacksaw the (cheap) nylon bushes to give me the right amount of engine swing. ive got a threaded eye that will accept a roller thingy or bearing to ensure smoothness.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
drilled two 9.5mm holes in each arm and filled with lead.same stall point.tried running it with NO springs and the stall point is exactly the same.i think these clutches by design only work at 7000 plus.ive bought some more arms and am gonna fit thicker linings on them so they are virtually touching maybe 10 thou clearance.surely thats got to do it?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
thx graham, yeah jbot linked to his threadit i think he initially used a gy? spring then went to a zuma/jog spring. which is what ive bought.you are right, all of this stuff has been asked about before and is old news to most but i'm new to mobylettes and a bit of a noob. i find if someone mentions a solution i then use the search (not only on here) to find good info.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
thanks for that graham dillon and jbot.now to find the uk verion of mcmastersbtw my spring arrivedbut just realised im gonna have to hack the original counterspring mount off the frame. i could save it and weld it back on at a later date if required but im leaning towards buying another moby and doing all sorts of modding hacking and welding to that and leaving this one near to standard.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
ive joined a french speaking forum and it is apparent that the er86 is designed (poorly?) to stall at 7-8k rpm. ok if youve got a high 11-14k rpm screamer.one poster suggested using the original moby starter arm springs instead of the springs supplied. but the ones ime using are much weaker than those.they also suggest weighting the arms by drilling and tappin m8 and insert steel rod. in two or 3
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
ive just realised the 3 arms are sprung off each other. if you move one arm outwards the spring stretches and the arm its connected to moves inwards. this surely shouldnt happen. i think i need to change the anchor points. im thinking it is a poor design.now i just need someone good at physics to show me the best place to drill a new anchor point. i will enclose a pic
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
yeah i dont mind getting creativeim wondering if the damper from a cars rear hatch would work?
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
i removed the stiffener to the std counter spring and removed all the weights from the er3 variator. it wouldnt variate. with one weight on each arm and it wouldnt variate. with 2 it will variate but noit fully but the goat has gone away. ill add just enough weight to get it to variate fully and see if it does the goat. ive ordered a zuma spring and some bits to make a better contra set up.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
cheers dirty30dilloneven with really soft springs it doesnt bite until way too high, almost past my peak power rpm.im gonna try adding lots of weight to the arms.or like you say i save this for a high revving motor and go back to stock (modded) clutch.
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
update. with the weakest springs i could find and weights stuck to arms it stalled about 500 rpm lower than with supplied springs.when i fit the supplied springs it stalls the same rpm with screws at full adjustment either way. so the screws do nothing.so much for adjustability. its stall point is higher than my peak rpm.what are my options?apart from throwing it away
Alan Jackson — 1 year ago
then i roll them or bend and shape them using jubilee clips and sockets for ones smaller than may rollers (most of them) and fine tune with pliers and a big hammer so as to tig weld them seamlessly.....i have a pal who has paid lots of money for programs to calculate the ideal pipe. i may have to bung him some money to get him to design one for me.its a lot of work just to get the finished article