Results 181–210 of 14184
If you change the pipe you will need to upjet
Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and let some drain into a clear glass bottle or jar. Check for good flow as well as "bubbles" of water in the fuel.If the flow seems to be anemic then use a bicycle tire pump and give it a gentle stroke of air to back flow some air up the fuel line. The gentle push of air up the line could dislodge some crappo at the saran screen on the petcock an
Would be handy to know which moped.Likely bad connection at the accessory coil or a burned out accy coil as just a random guess due to not knowing which ped.
Cable choke can get you out of trouble if you need to rich up the air-fuel ratio on a adhoc basis to get home to effect repairs. Lever choke you would just have to call a friend or do the walk of shame and push your ride home...
My coworker has a shyte electric scooter, no license or tags or insurance needed in this part of CanadaLand, he is about 40km from work so just under a hour commute. He has it modified for better than the legal prescribed 50km/h, dont know what he did but anyhow it moves quite decently. He parks it in the back at the shipping dock indoors and plugs in while he works because the overspeed draws h
Unlikely that you would need to change the spi seals often but still a good mod to the engine casings. I would suggest to get the 15mm crank seals which are rubber backed, rather the steel exposed case type. The rubber ones are more forgiving to install and will provide a good seal at the seal to bore union.I have tapered gauges and a cone set in my toolbox in the shop, "accurate enough&quo
Seal issue is not explained well by me so I will try again.The isodyne and super isodine engine do not have a crank seal, they rely on a seal bearing on the left engine side and the casing seal on the right side. Sealing on the left side is via a 6303-2RS (17x47x14) sealed bearing, C3 specification is the Motobecane specified tolerance. Right side is the gasket for the right side casing to seal
Mark Daniels at Mopedland has some screw in base headlamp bulbs availablehttp://www.mopedland.co.uk/electro/or you can hunt around for some screw base 6v torch bulbs.> Ano Magaisa Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> Thank you rebel moby I’ve found a seller for a new headlight casing and> parts, what kind of bulbs would the headlight take?
That is a potential gold mine if you are replacing a pair of tires everytime one goes flat. You will not find 15" moped tires for the Pug in CanadaLand, you will find tubes for them. Better yet, you will find a tube patch kit at Dollarama (just hurry up before the christmas shyte arrives and the kits are kicked off the shelves)...> Samuel Gibson-Gamache Wrote:> -----------------------
Sounds approximately right to me to relieve boredom but not much more than that...
Temperature of the exhause in the expansion chamber determines a lot about the reversion sound wave to over stuff the combustion chamber. Having the timing less advanced (closer to TDC) will help the combustion chamber heat faster and provide a more consistent and robust performance as well as warming up faster. Add some wrap but not on the header, start just before the beginning of the diffuser
If it is a step through moped then you stand the chance of catastrophic failure at the tank base and the moped will taco up on you without warning. Upper stress bar can help here but still do not see the point of the exercise.
I would suggest to give it a leakdown test to see if the spi seal is good or not. No crank seal on those isodyne engines. Sealing on the left side is via a 6303-2RS (17x47x14) sealed bearing. Might be the seal on the right side carter cover plate, lots of folks have removed that plate and not considered that it needs a very good seal so it does not suck air.Also make sure there is not restricti
Have you decoked the exhause yet? Blockage or restriction in the pipe will cause the engine to be quite gutless.
Why would you want to....
Take off the front wheel and treat them independently. Seeing you have the french nut off one leg you may as well withdraw the leg and give it a goodly clean. The end fitting screws into the spring and the leg screws into the other end of the spring. Thats about all there is to the moby shock. Grease it goodly with fresh clean GP grease, make sure the end fitting it screwed well into the sprin
Mounts are same same to other Moby mounts for the head and the lower counter spring mount. Get a couple of nyloc nuts M8. The way I get rusted up fasteners off intact is to hit up the exposed threads with a wire wheel on a drill, then "paint" them with a little vinegar, and hit it again with the wire wheel once the vinegar dries. That removes the corrosion, etches the thread just a we
Brian Aplin at Aplins of Bristol likely can help get that fixed, he has so much NOS parts and knows all of the Motobecanes as his shop used to be a dealer back in the day.
The bulb for the headlight is missing the tab for the center electrode of the bulb. The bulb would screw into the pentagon shaped hole and the center electrode would touch the tab which used to be across the pentagon hole.For wiring the black wire goes to the terminal attached to the pad at the back of the nacelle, the grey wire hanging at the switch goes to the missing tab.
Nice Pug indeed - you need the bulbs inside the light or the lenses or ???Close to impossible to find 15" tires unless you buy in France
...and good luck to anyone trying to get in...
M1 Cady only has 10mm ID intake so any carb with a bore larger than that is going to be a problem. You either need to fix the original AR1-10 Gurtner or get a Dellorto SHA14:10 to be able to properly tune the bike.
Facebook is mostly just entertaining to watch folks argue about the same shyte over and over until they are physically and mentally done... then along comes another arsehole to stir up the shyte pot again - lol.Great place for having a more timely convo with folks about bikes, also good for their video messaging and that "rooms" video thing to have a few folks discuss technical shyte. P
Big Ears was Noddy's bro's handle...
You can carefully cut your own with a baseball and a drill press the old school way. Modify the baseball by drilling and inserting a piece of 1/4 rod so it will go into a chuck. You need to be well centered on the press to get it accurate enough that it does not wobble. Then use some cloverleaf grinding compound, Grade C will cut quick enough without gouging. Use the headgasket for the cylinde
Lot of money for no gain at all, but some folks will claim +x mph on the plug change. Same folks would probably get the same improvement if they used the right heat range plug and gapped it properly.
That stupid little rectifier could be the issue.
Dont bore out a plated bore, having it replated is more than the cost of a new jug and slug.
This one at Treatlandhttps://www.treatland.tv/motobecane-av88-cock-8mm-thread-p/motobecane-av88-cock-n-line.htm