Results 151–180 of 1920
Or thick glass which sometimes you can get free st a glass shop. They throw away tons of glass on a regular basis. Ask nicely. 1/4" or thicker is best. My glass is 16 x 16 x 1/4" and just make a habit to do all my heads and cylinders to make sure they're dead on. I never use a gasket or sealers & never have leaks. Been doing it this way for 15+ years. Mopeds are my main transpo.
Many of us use a Moped as their primary transpo, even though we can afford a car/van. It's a life style choice. Some people like rat bikes and some of us like fully, or even, over restored bikes. Those are a labor of love and cost a small fortune in having less than perfect parts chromed and lots of money spent on automotive paint, which has gone up drastically in recent years. There are some
Be extra cool if the pedals had clearance. I spoze welding another pedal end, to the end of the existing one, would work.
Be interesting to see how they're priced compared to Monday, which I thought was sky high.
I have a $100 ebay dental drill and a real dental drill I got from my dentist when he retired. The real one works amazing compared to the ebay one and is rebuild-able with east to get bearings. The ebay one does work but I don't throttle it to high RPMs. They fit nicely into a small cylinder and both work off air, which needs to be regulated.
I've been thinking of doing something like this. Great for a small town with low speed limits. A real stealth Ped. Somebody should snag that right away.
Worthy of a pristine restoration!
I would highly recommend an MLM Rev-Run pipe if you can find one. I don't know if they could be talked into making them again, but they should. If you know a pipe maker, I could get you the specs.
@ EmilYes, Those parts will bolt together. I started this project a few years ago and got side tracked with other things, like many of us do.. The rear shock mounts don't really need to be there any longer, however substantially stiffening the swinger would be advantageous. I'll probably remove the pump mounts. I am using things that don't normally be used, and when done will be a
However a lot of peeps spend their monies on lots of expensive parts that really don't help. My biggest peve is huge, gas wasting carbs on a street bike. Most of the time they're hard to tune, decrease throttle response, need expensive mounting and waste gobs of gas. My 2 cents
Yes, #7 & #9. I also didn't know of a tire pump, however it looks like one would fit between those 2 points. Unfortunately I didn't have a close up of those 2 spots. One of the things I forgot to mention is by tig welding up all the places that are done with a spot welder, at the factory, plus adding a few gussets to the swinger will make it much stiffer. Basically fusing the sheet m
First Polini Cup was won with one of those !
Can't figure out what these sheet metal 'cup' and 'pointer' are on the left side , just ahead of the lower stock shock mounting. Also there's a tab on the left side, right next to the airbox, that can be seen right under the mono shock lower mount. Extends out from the swing arm & looks to have an indentation or hook? Hard to see in the photo. Can't find a u
Heat, lots of it. Have good fitting tools ready. If the shaft is square, on the screwdriver, use a proper fitting wrench & don't let it slip.
Riding 2 strokes since 1961 and premix is the ONLY way to go. Start with an 80:1 mix ,using synthetic, & if your pipe still drips, go leaner, in steps, till it just stops dripping. 100:1 max.
Yeah, I'll bet the rent is less than 1/2 the $$ for twice the space. Good move! I expect to see some serious builds from Jbot.
An easy & cheap way to get the head & top barrel surfaces really flat, is to find a piece of glass, thicker the better, and tape some fine wet n dry sandpaper to it, facing up. My glass is 1/4" X 16" X 16" & got it free, for the asking, at the local glass shop. They usually have a pile outback that usually makes it way to the dumpster. I start with 400 just to see which
One tool, that you'll find many uses for, is a 6" Digital caliper. The are 10 bucks almost anywhere an sometimes given free when you purchase, say, bearings for your motor, or whatever they're advertising, to get the 'free' item. I got min from VXB bearing when I purchased a 10 pack of bearings for my Puchs. But even if you can't find a free one, 10 bucks is almost g
Can't go wrong with it. Had a silver Free Spirit, as a daily rider for 15 years & never a problem.
Lets keep this thread alive. More pix please,
Looks like normal crud found in the bottom of most carbs. Using a fuel filter will help. Doesn't look that bad, though. If one of those bits gets into the jet it won't run right but a quick periodic cleaning is always a good idea.
Cold is no fun! But dressing for it really's not too hard with a small amount of forethought. Lots of good info on here. The Swany gloves are probably much warmer than the Dianese ones. Leather isn't very warm by itself. I got a second hand one piece ski suit that really took the chill out of riding & later got a Spartain MC suit. Still need layers but was WAY better than just long j
Like Roff said; easiest carb I've ever tuned. I have no idea how peeps can say they have difficulty with them. Parts are cheap & accessible. when needed.
Year after year after year of the same problems & they will never get it right. Why don't people look elsewhere for parts when it's known they have not been doing business the right way since day 1.
My daily rider Puch Free Spirit, since 2003, has only not started once because of the left hand switch shorting out. Took a while to figure out what was wrong, though. Clutch still looks new, even though I hauled a trailer around for 5 of those years, sometimes with 500 pounds. Maintenance is key. Pretty much much stock looking with very little mods. Could use a new paint job & chrome here &am