Results 121–150 of 1920
I have been removing the ethanol from gas with some lab glass I got on ebay. I wish I had a pic. Add colored water to gas & hake well. Let sit over night. Ethanol is 'hygroscopic' which means it's attracted to water & bonds with it. It is heavier than gas & will drop to the bottom of the 2Liter, pear shaped and conical glass with a petcock at the bottom. The food colorin
Been running my Free Spirit, for 15 years as a daily, and it tops out at 37-38 with a Techno Circuit pipe and raised the ex port 1mm & widened it 1mm on each side and matched the port to the pipe. I use the stock air cleaner with restrictions removed. Timing is 13-14* btdc. I just love the bike !!! This year I plan on doing a complete resto including having most of the chrome parts redone.
For the age and condition, the prices don't seem out of control. Notice the peeps looking at them are mostly older folks, which probably remember them as kids and know their value.
Use the search & Wiki. LOTS of threads on the topic. Hobbit carbs are not the easiest to get completely clean, but function well if they are. If you can properly clean a Hobbit carb, then you'll be able to clean any other. Compressed air is mandatory. Next will be the clogged up muffler. And though they're very quiet, they're also the most restrictive of any Moped muffler I know
Keep it original & find a beater to mod.
It could be done, but with a crazy amount of time.
I don't think adding those forks added much more than 5 or 6 pounds, but I'm sure it really smooths out the ride. I'll bet the other end is a little harsh, though. I see you live fairly close to Snowdonia Natl. Park. Always wanted to go camping & hiking there. You're lucky.
Yes, We're always looking for better lighting, even if it means adding a small battery.
Really nice looking bike. Hope you get it dialed in soon.
Not that hard to make weights any size or weight. Mix & match brass & aluminum tubing to get desired weight.
You'll find most of what you're looking for in the Wiki. The spacer for the sealed wheel bearings is key.
You can make is nice as the effort you put into it.
Yeah, A Catalina Moped camping trip would be awesome. It would take some planning, for sure, but be well worth the effort.
Did you re-spoke with stainless spokes?
Thanks, Paul. One of these days I will complete the project and have a rider 'looker' bike that will hit around 50. I'm currently in a auto painting class, at the nearby community college, and have a whole bunch of Moped parts to do. The techniques of painting are pretty straight forward, but it's really 95% prep to get an outstanding job. By the way, your Puch looks great!
Yes, Please do a thread on your electro- plating with pix of your set up.
They start at about 15 grand!
Started polishing MC hubs n parts back in the 60s. Lotsa ways to do it. I try to do it as time effective as possible and found it's much easier to keep a nicely polished surface brite with a minimal amount of work, however if you let it go, yes it will degrade. For round items use anything that will spin it. Mandrel from a proper fitting shaft, IE: axle, or in the case of a Hobbit, for instan
I can think of many ways to polish metal and over the years have suggested some of them, with pics of many parts. All I got was shit from peeps who think polishing is a waste of time.
Many times this is true. More then likely the original bearings are fine. If you chose to replace them, this is one area that I will spend more money for a well known/quality brand. It's just dumb to use inferior bearings when the quality ones are not that expensive.
All you're gunna do is waste a bunch of gas and have poor throttle response.
Please explain why you started this thread? Common sense can evaluate risk and then act accordingly!
With very little digging, you'll find a multitude of Hobbit building, in threads or in the WIKI.
Another thought I had, was to use a Hobbit format so it could be variated. Any thoughts on that?
I spent 3 hours on line last night looking at components. Expensive to say the least. A stealthy ped would be awesome where I live. I'd like a solid 40 mph and 15-20 mile range. Be fairly easy to convert an old moped or frame, at least all the metal work. Wish there were forums for diy electric moped builders.
My bead blaster cleans them up nicely + sand the leading & trailing edge of the shoes, and drums, (for drum brakes) and everything works great.
Mixing oil is so easy & the only way to know what ratio you really have. Auto oilers are mostly always way too rich, and when they fail, you'll probably seize. Use a good synthetic & start with an 80:1 mix & if it still drips out the exhaust lean it further, in 5% increments, up to 100:1