Results 181–210 of 345
like everyone else said, powder is sooo much better than paint. You can pay to have it done or buy your own. You don't have to build an "oven" as long as you can get an ir lamp and control the distance and temperature (use a temp gun thing). I did it that way for multiple bikes and wheel sets now.Painting still isn't bad, if your talking about single stage sprayer through a
The bike runs, when started and hauls ass. timing is fine with hpi. tuned in excellent. No woodruff key, timing is on the mark. running is not the issue, something clutch side; like it grabbing sometimes, but not wanting to others...does that make sense?I've tried tightening the clutch cable so far my had hurt from squeezing it previously. Also the back tire literally a skid fest. Are you a
My e50 has no pedals (so it's a push start).Here is my problem:The ped idles fine, and when it runs, it runs well no problems Running is not the issue. The only issue is getting the damn thing started. I've always had problems with this on this ped. I've been able to barely push it while holding the clutch and it'll start. Today I started it 3 or 4 times this way, then it
Everything is fine.Once I'm around 50 the front tire starts to bounce?Conditions:-going to hills makes it do it less.-If I ease into the throttle it does it less but still does it.is it a fork thing? this is peculiar to me
I'm gonna get to it on monday. ped has new pipe, carb, and malossi filter. didn't really know about the pucks (I'm used to e50 not the za50). I'm gonna go through thouse videos and wiki.I told him I thought the timing was off as well to begin with, but now I think it is a good idea to replace the pucks.
entire case was opened, seals and bearings looked to be in good shape
yeah that's what I was thinking, I haven't toyed with it much, my brother did the rebuild and doesn't have time to finish now i have to do it. That's why I asked general questions to see if there were any za50 specific things I didn't knowpucks? that may be new to me? more info?
So I'm going to help my brother work on this problematic za50 that he has been working on for a while. I wasn't there for the building but I've heard and had him describe a few of the problems. I've never worked on a za50 before so I figured I would shoot some of these out here.magnum has new 70cc kit and exhaust, treats cdi, daves phbg knockoff carb,the inside is still prett
ok, so I've posted a few times with kind of dead threads.After reading a shit ton and opening my case about a million times, I am convinced that my clutch is not grabbing here is why. . .The cable is fine, and the engagement arm is at 90 degrees. I can pull it tight as shit, and too tight it seems.If I take the spark plug out, and then pull the clutch and push the maxi then I can watch the fl
just took entire engine apart to make sure I had no ghosts in there.clutch arm moves.I got ahold of a new cable gonna try that tomorrow
cable is so tight that i have to use superhuman strength to try and pull it in. even then I don't see the flywheel spin fully, maybe intermittently. Also was looser, no avail
top racing crank and hpi cdi.both are torqued on and not going anywhere
Ok, so I posted previously before figuring out I have an issue with this.Plain and simple, I'm not getting any "grab". When I push start the bike, pull the clutch and look at my hpi flywheel, it doesn't really spin, and if it does not consistently.Does anyone have any pictures of how to set this up correctly? I must be missing something stupid.What I think I understand:The clu
3cables coming from headlight?hmm without seeing that makes it sound like the bucket has an 1157 bulb( 2 "dots" on the bottom of the bulb).that means 2 are pretty much so power, and one ground.you can look inside the bucket and see which two cables ultimately go to where the two prongs are that will touch the bulb, those need power. the other one should be grounded.if that makes sensech
If you don't have the stock or want to buy aftermarket base gaskets what do you do?I've heard of people using a few different types of papers (like paper bag, cardboard front from a notebook) and something like aviation form-a gasket.Do you think with the form-a gasket sealer, oils/gas would still break down the paper? For example most cardboard type materials are held together with cor
yeah rubber mallet is easy, or get a small 3 jaw puller. they can come in handy for other uses as well.as for straight wiring with the 12v light/ internal ignition.it should be 2 wires really (i had one 12v light coil have 2 light wires though. still simple).
yeah coil could be.another idea is jetting. you sure your jetted perfect?if you are any bit more rich than your bike likes, it could darken your plug enough to where restarting could be a pain in the butt
ftw, get internal ignition and 12v lights.boot comes straight off of stator to plug.lights will have 1 or 2 wires to run to headlight and tail.thats straight wiring.treats is selling setups for like 25 now like that?easiest trouble shooting in the world.
yeah that's what I was thinking.question though, before i took the engine apart to check everything. i had the lever at "stock position" but the cable was adjusted to the max and when I pulled it was extremely tight, adjusting the arm ccw should relieve some of that force needed?
explain why clockwise though so I can make sure I fully undertand why I'd be doing that?
Since it is new, the pad isn't worn down. there is brake cleaner you can buy from the auto store that cost a buck or two, spray it in and ride around braking alot. should get the dirt out and stuff that's causing those squeeks.
after checking over everything and reading, I agree it's a starter clutch / plate issue and not the clutch slipping on the top crank.what are my options to make this grab better? I have the correct washers/circlips before and after on the crank.
sorry late night bump:https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/read.php?f=7&i=99519&t=99514&v=fthis thread from last year, basically states3 shoe clutch + top racing crank = no woodruff keythis thread was saying the starter plate wasn't the problem but the clutch itself was slipping on the crank.I'm pretty sure I torqued that baby in there, but I meet these same requirements:
i tore the entire engine apart to check everything, hey why not haha...if you can post pics or links to the correct way anyways let me know?as far as i know, when you install onto the ped, the lever should make 90 degrees with the bike, and when pulled it should move towards the front of the bike. on the inside the piece (flat / rounded piece) should sit flat in front of the clutch assembly?then
sorry for bumping so fast, trying to get it done.dismantled entire engine to see the inside.everything is in good shape.having a real hard time getting clutch off of the crank.another question to pose as well: before when it was running, should I have had to push start it very fast and have the clutch cable set tight to grab super hard?
the changes include, but mostly shouldn't matter?changed intake from one i fabricated (used when the bike was working, to the stoke one that the polini 4p comes with.i loosened my clutch springs:3 shoe clutch, paz springs.the bike originally ran with the spring tension i set, then i tightened the springs all another half turn each to try and get higher rpms. rode like this the entire time. I
I call upon the power of the Guru universe to help this possible brainfart...HELP ME FIX THIS IN TIME BEFORE TITS AND KITS AND GITS SHITS RIDE...please and thank youthe bike haspolini 64polini 4p reedshpi cdisimoissue:This bike ran and ran and ran well. Its a push start, and i had to push real fast, and had to have the clutch cable set to very hard, so push fast pull choke hard.I took a few thing
first time I did it was to the wiki posted here. with portmatching 2 or 3 hours, and that was going over everything twice and cleaning.
i was thinking exhaust, i'll try that this weekend.as for your suggestion silverfox, I haven't messed with the timing.I've ridden this thing for two years without having to do anything major.