Results 1–30 of 180
ill never admit it was my fault
i stand with the social pigs despite the allegations
yeah turns out it was the needle. quarter-half throttle is actually usable now and you don't do wheelies if you don't want to.also I can't believe that I'm revving 12k on a crank that i cut with the harbor freight mini lathe, and it feels fine hahahahahaalso im using a stock clutch with polini springs, maybe blue? super tame
regarding streetability, here's all I can say:it's fastI think I ruined my daily driverit probably gets shit mileage nowi'm going to keep riding it to work across the city and get there with a smile on my face
I'm still tuning the carb, super close to getting it just right. mostly having some issues off the line. same as yours, gurgle gurgle, wheelie. main jet seems to be dialed tho, and once it goes it revs and revs. hitting about 11.4k rpm.There's some guys in Spain that sell the modded overrange 19x15.5 variators. They keep the Malossi product codes a secret because they think they're
all is good!it's fucking fast, what else is there to say?running a Yasuni c16 (favorite pipe ever). hpi at 3mm ish btdc. Piaggio rear pulley (127mm) bored out to run a derbi needle bearing.it wheelies like mad, obv. my 16x13 roller variator setup was getting sketch so I'm back to a 15x12 variator that i cut to 14 degrees for now. rips pretty hard, but still itching to run a 19x13.5 rolle
I'm bored. let's go faster.had to lathe the adapter because it was hitting my cases. no biggie.slotted the stud holes a bit on the adapter. had to space it at the base around 3.5mm using base gaskets plus an 2mm aluminum spacer.ended up with .65-.7mm squish. not bad.now to tune it!
bump, take it all for 300. variotop, crank, cases, cylinder. build the race moby of your dreams.
bumpstill have variotop, crank, cases, and cylinder. make me an offer??
all there! pulled from a running bike. 100 bucks shipped?
yeah just eyeballed it by getting the piston right below the exhaust and transfers at bdc with a base gasket on. worked great cause my squish is at .8 ish mm now.
very inspirational post you made about that btw jordan. belt alignment is perfect. here's the variatorhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/234203102910i believe it's for jog 90, basically horizontal. 16mm, 15 spline same as the derbi one. boss is 1mm less in diameter so belt sits real close to the crank and pretty much all the way up in the rear pulley.
yeah ok, "penis tow hitch man"
got this Hoca 98mm variator that uses 16x13 rollers and matching fixed plate. I am using a Piaggio stock rear pulley (127mm) and a piston port belt. the variator would travel too far and it would fall off the ramp plate. made some ramp plate extendos with some aluminum, steel spring pins, and JB weld. runs great and variates all the way now.
yeah, a start 5 won't work as easily since the transfers are nowhere near as big as start 3, and i don't have a tig welder. the water cooled head is definitely a must. i tried to run a big head with my vertical cylinder piston port and that would heat up way too quick. i wouldn't risk it.> Buttcheeks BUZZARD wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> S
and yeah here it is. put a giant radiator on it. its fast! gotta tune it now. surprisingly, it's not ridiculously rattly so i consider that a success.
that was the hard part, i think. Now to move the studs. Got some 7mm aluminum rod, tapped it to m7x1, covered it in jbweld, threaded into cases. Cut the studs, sanded surface. Pressed in some 8mm od 6mm id steel bushings to the scooter stud holes, centered the scooter cylinder as best as i could and clamped it down to the cases. Drilled straight down by hand. The bushings help guide the drill bit
ppl still making go-fast build threads nowadays? Sharing some very dumb things i've done with this sick engine. I know there's better ways of doing all of this, but the fun of it is doing it yourself!!I bought the most clapped start 3 over the summer from spain which I had been told had a start 5 crank in it. Thinking they had done the hard work for me, I bought it.Turns out, they had pu
are you running the dayco derbi belts? I've never had luck with those on an actual ripper. They wear really unevenly, and those tiny little teeth shred. I've been having good results with the dos belts on a mild buildhttps://www.doscycles.com/products/item-47?_pos=1&_sid=7cbbe893e&_ss=rbut I haven't had the chance to test them on a big build since that bike is out of commiss
not between the cheeks, that would restrict how far they can close. It goes over the threads where the variator nut threads in, before the ramp plate. you can either put in the spacer over the threads and bolt on the variator like normal, or put the spacer in between the moving cheek and the ramp plate and bolt it on like normal. both methods might need a little jiggle.the spacer allows extra spac
But yeah with the stock hobbit bell, it didn't have much of an advantage besides giving you another option to look for if you break your derbi bell.
It definitely is lighter if you get the Xtreme bell. It also has a better ramp angle than the stock bell giving you a bit more range on the top end and better takeoff when the ramp plate is shimmed properly. Totally woke up my bike when i started using the hobbit bell.
I played around with flat reed stuff too, just couldn't make it work with the one way bushing that treats sells that's meant to be paired with the stock spacer. If you could make one of those long single bushings for flat reed, you'd be in the game.