Results 1–30 of 39
Steven Ray — 1 year ago
Hey guys, so my build went from freshening up an old seized 'ped to it now getting the whole go-throughI have my frame/running gear mostly together, new cylinder/crank/bearings/seals in box sitting next to a clean split case still and I got to wondering.. basically everything is new except for the crusty old stator/ignition now. Am I going to need an upgrade? keep it points? CDI? keep it 6v?
Steven Ray — 1 year ago
Not the straightest(yet) but they're on there!Thanks again
Steven Ray — 1 year ago
Thank you! Will try and report back
Steven Ray — 1 year ago
Copped a sick and sturdy set of these https://www.treatland.tv/puch-EBR-BLACK-maxi-forks-WITH-stabilizer-p/puch-ebr-maxi-w-fslash-brace-f035261.htmwent to put them on my 77 Newport and it seems the forks are slightly too narrow to clear the hubs? They are stock spoke/drum wheels/hubsI'm not too crazy about going whacking on and/or grinding on my fancy new forks.. what am I doing wrong?Should
Steven Ray — 1 year ago
Copped a sick and sturdy set of these https://www.treatland.tv/puch-EBR-BLACK-maxi-forks-WITH-stabilizer-p/puch-ebr-maxi-w-fslash-brace-f035261.htmwent to put them on my 77 Newport and it seems the forks are slightly too narrow to clear the hubs? They are stock spoke/drum wheels/hubsI'm not too crazy about going whacking on and/or grinding on my fancy new forks.. what am I doing wrong?Should
Steven Ray — 2 years ago
I tried to rob the front support off my free spirt/magnum clone-junker but it didnt fit :(((
Steven Ray — 2 years ago
They are 2.25" btw
Steven Ray — 2 years ago
Right. New EBR forks and stabilizer are in my future, treats is just out right now.Thank you! Just didnt want the front forks to crumple while I'm test riding it because I didnt put the fender and coat hanger on or something
Steven Ray — 2 years ago
Tried to get as much wiggle room as I could and still too tightMy question is, is it okay to run without the fender/coat hanger or are they necessary supports in the structure of the forks?
Steven Ray — 2 years ago
Too close, my fender is the 'old style' that 'curves in' at the top. Tire wont spin at all with the fender on there loose fit and my pulling up on it. It's not going to work(See picture) the way the supports mount to the fender it takes up too much space inside the fender
Steven Ray — 2 years ago
Hey guys, in the process of rebuilding my original puch Newport and swapped out the roached reflective stock rubber that came on it with some new Shinko Golden Boys and some heavy duty tubes.I eventually plan to throw some new EBRs on in the future but was trying to mock up the new 2.25" meats and couldnt get the stock coat hanger and fender to clear.My question is, is it safe to run these st
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Pretty sure I didn't. All parts/hardware I removed I put in an old tacklebox tray, labeled each partition, and then put back on carefully. Shouldn't be any missing hardware in the wrong place, was very careful when I put the intake back on
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Update: now it seems to sometimes turn over and fire, or run completely. Other times I go to kick it and it doesn't want to move at all then snap crackle pop it gives way without turning the motor
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Alright so I finally got my first moped running(kind of). The carb was leaking because of a maladjusted float, ditching the chinesium one for OEM but I was able to get it started just by flipping the petcock open briefly to fill the bowl up periodically. I understand that probably isn't the best but hey, I got to ride her up and down the street a few times.Needless to say she was running a li
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
I know that much, I disassembled it completely. The needle was gunked up with so much sludge and varnish-gas I just assumed that the float needle was all brass though. I didn't realize it was a different material until after the fact
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Upon reading that infograph, I may have ruined my needle, if the part about not getting solvent on the rubber tip and it swelling up.. the carb was so gunked up and full of sludge and varnish I just threw the whole thing in a carb cleaner bucket for a couple days once I had it apart
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Thank you for the handy infograph, friend. Very useful.Will report back after some adjustments are made. The chinesium float I got from treatland seemed a little rough, should have known it would need some fitting
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
I am a noob here but when I rebuilt the carb I just cleaned it well, got a new top, bowl, banjo gaskets, and a new float.I replaced the float all together but it didn't seem like there was any way to set the float height, I just took the old one off and put the new one on and put the float needle back in the little notch
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
I just put my moped back together after un-seizing it, rebuilding the carb, new petcock and changing the trans fluid. Went to fill it up and start trying to get it started..Fuel began pouring, and I mean pouring out of (pic related) this little priming nipple thing.. help?I just wanna rip, was so excited to get this thing going today finallyPlease and thank you
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Hey all, I went to remove the original petcock on my 77 puch maxi Newport and get all that an ancient rotten dinosaur goo out from the late 70s/early 80s. The petcock was really hard to remove and I pulled out the selector and tube with what I assume is the filter stuck in the nipple, which I then yanked out with a pair of pliers.This(pic related) was all that came out.My question is, is there any
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
> Kenneth Hill Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> 1/2 the reason the bike is in such great shape is the 1hp motor. Many> ppl that bought that engine soon found out is was too slow to be safe or> enjoyable to ride. Go ahead and learn to install a crank/bearings/seals,> and a kit (you'll also want a better carb and exhaust). Then you'll have&
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
> matt madden Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> or use the cheap hand files from harbor freight...takes more time but> less chance for error...>> https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html>> plus if you heat them you can bend them into interesting shapes for hard> to reach areasI like the harbor freight route
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
One more question before I go, this area seems pretty jagged, is that normal or is it damaged?
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Roger.The cylinder looks pretty damn clean and the crank seems to turn pretty well though I am sure it would love some more fresh oil. I'm sure whatever was in it leaked out a long long time ago. I'll have to pick this up again tomorrow. Need to get dinner with the misses. This site has become my new form of bedtime readingThank you for your advice and quick replies!
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Alright, found some blocks and beat the hell out of it and here I am now (pic related)It definitely doesn't want to just slide back in, atleast easily. So do I push it back in? Or take the cylinder all the way off?
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
> Pacer Racer Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> Doing this will keep from bending con rod like Ken mentioned above^^> >Aha, awesome. Will have to find some wood blocks.Love the photo-shop work too btw ;)Thank you so much! I'mma get this b free
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Here's another. Any ideas how to get that piston free?
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
> matt madden Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> you're not out anything to just get it running first...clean the carb> really well, check the tank for gummed up fuel and clean it, lube the> cables, clean the petcock and fire that sucker up!>> you can always up the performance once you get a feel for the bike...It's seized though man. I
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Pretty clean
Steven Ray — 3 years ago
Guys I don't know much.. but judging by the lack of carbon buildup in the pipe I'd say I don't think this thing has been ran very much at allPic related