Results 1–30 of 69
Too true. Treats seems to have all the kit necessary. Any thoughts or recommendations on other parts/components?
Yeah Brother, Snoped to Moped. South Dakota probably gets more snow than Northern Michigan. We get dumped on a couple of times every year from 'Lake Effect'.No, it was just a gag. I was watching Ichiban Moto weld with sparklers (4th of July celebration) and got a kick out of it. The 2cyl 440cc Kawasaki in a circa 1972 Arctic Cat Cheetah probably weighs more than the Moby frame. Rips
In Michigan: Yes. In Texas: No, that's where all the free parts come from ;)
Thanks everybody for the help. I was thinking about putting a kit on it to go past 50cc (49.9) anyways, after I registered it (so much for being totally north of legal). If I gotta go get a motorcycle license and register it as such, I guess I might as well go all out. Would be pretty cool to register is as a classic motorcycle.How big of a motor do you think I could fit on it? I have a Kawasa
So, I have read through the wiki page and the TX DPS website regarding registration of a moped. I am perplexed, mostly due to the origin story of the bike that I own.I have a valid title and registration from MI(chigan) for a 1959 Montgomery Ward's Riverside AV88. MI has few requirements (motorcycle ed, helmets, plates, all NOT required). I recently moved to TX and am looking to register/r
Dude, that is a loooot of corrosion. Like mopedallday said, your carb is toast. In addition the the chem neutralization with evaporust, you're going to need to mechanically remove the debris. Put some bolts and nuts in the tank and shake all that crap loose so you can flush it out.I'd be interested to see closer pics of the fairings and body. Is there any rot in the plastics or frame
Was hoping that ID'ing the coil ends would present a more robust solution. Think I'll follow the recommendation on AC/DC LEDs. More wires makes more opportunities for trouble later. Also takes up more room/cramped. Not sure what all the Vapor does but seems like a lot of effort for an accessory. But you've got it so go for it. Biggest problem for me would be figuring out how to
> J D Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> If my spatial reasoning skills and ohm-meter are correct, this (red> lead) would be where the end of the lighting coil is grounded. It> appears to be opposite of where the existing yellow wire is grounded.> ------------------------------------------------------.... existing yellow wire is CONNECTED (sorry)
I'm working on the same issue, same CDI on another Moby. I was going to run the yellow wire through the rectifier (for DC LED lighting and a DC klaxon type horn) and ground everything to the chassis. Glad I saw your thread before I got too far along and looking forward to a solution specific to the same setup that I've got, short of running ground wires all over the place.I did find a
There's a bunch of dudes talking about this type of problem over at thescooterprofessor. These things have autochokes, a bunch of vent lines, emissions standards, you may have more luck there.
That's a scooter, not a moped...no PEDals. Some ppl here are touchy about that.You replaced a BUNCH of stuff. Are the symptoms still the same (as in actually the same, not a different but similar behavior)? Is there an intake pipe between the carb and the cylinder? Might be an air leak between carb/intake/cylinder. The carb controls and meters the air/fuel mixture that is making it to the
> pat splat Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> pretty sure i got a rear hub, post a pict and ill look around.Here's the one I need. Thanks for any help you can lend. It's the 100mm version. Freewheel was seized. Chipped it when I was trying to remove the freewheel. Bummer
Will do on the hub pic, thanks!Regarding the drill start, it was an easy fix. Switched from low to hi rpm on the drill and cranked the drill's clutch a couple of clicks south of full-on drill mode. Fired up, started pulling gas through the carb and ran her for about 10 minutes. Then shit started popping off and vibrating loose all over the place. I think that the drill in low revs was hol
It's an AV7 but I don't remember a woodruff key, aside from the clutch. Sending the rotation via the back wheel makes sense.I am in need of a new rear hub, couple sections broke off. For now, the front wheel is on and the swing arm is ratchet strapped to a stool. Trying to get it running by turning it over with a drill but every time the engine catches, the flywheel nut or the nut on
Didn't even stop to think that it went down the right side then back up the left side. I (mistakenly) thought that there was positive engagement at the pedal crank. But then it'd be impossible to ride because the pedals would chop your feet off when the motor was running.Thanks again!!
^there ya go. Don't even have a back tire on it. Makes sense now. Dumbass.......
I'm doing a really bad job of explaining this.Sprocket, pulley and clutch all roll together. But, the spindle/axle that the pedals turn doesn't turn the sprocket, won't turn the pulley. Flipped the switch back and forth, doesn't make a difference.
It grabs, and releases, the teeth. Spins freely either way. The issue is more like the gear isn't engaged on the crank. The pulley, with the switch engaged and disengaged, spins freely on the shaft.I'm hoping that this is a ridiculously simple fix.
Sorry, checked the wiki and googled the website.... didn't see my problem.Putting together my AV88. I reassembled the pedal crank according to the schematics I have. It spins freely but it won't engage the rear pulley. The bicycle/moped flipper switch doesn't make a difference.The front sprocket (motor side) seems like it should be fixed to the crank somehow but I must have misse
*Any Moby rims. Missed that, sorry.
And 18" Moby spoke rears? Maybe a 36 spoke more rear hub that takes a 100mm brake?
But I guess I didn't really answer any of your questions so, the metal ones should go in first. As far as the springs fitting, check the top, like in the second part of my post. Here's a link to a pic:http://www.mopedjunkyard.com/assets/images/motobecane/IM/motobforktext.jpgHow do the gaskets in the nuts look?
There should be more spacers, maybe still inside the forks? Have you looked for the manual for whatever you're working on to see the order that the spacers are supposed to go?Take a look at the top of the retainers that thread into the springs. Are there some ridges and corresponding slots in the upper yoke?
It's just an oddball size. The ID clearance needed for the axle limits the options available. I checked SAE and metric sizes but this was the closest one I could find. Plus it's already been done.Not sure what I'm going to do about replacing the tapered nuts for the cup bearings. Needs to be flat and only touch the inner race. Probably going to need to push the bearings out flu
No beer cans. Two shims, 22ga steel. Seems solid.
Yeah, I guess of I have to ask then I have my answer... Call it a work in progress
So I got around to making shims. The beer can method seemed like it take too many shims. This is 16ga steel and three beer can shims. Thoughts? Seems a little ugly to me but everything is tight.Thoughts? Would you ride it?
So, mine was an AV7 with internal seals. First time I did it, I put the seals in the case, crank bearings on the crank and chilled the crank in the freezer. I heated the bearing surfaces at the shoulder of the case. Seemed far enough from the seals to prevent heat damage. I ended up tearing one of the seals when I reassembled. Threads caught the rubber and I wasn't paying close enough at
My apologies. So, aside from establishing said motor, where are you at?