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You don't want to go one speed for any prolonged amount of time.Also, use the search function.
YO I GOT THE BEST TURBO EVERIT'S CALLED LOSE 20 POUNDS.
Danny, that sounds like my Valentine's Day plans for the Magnum and I.
Tiki, can't you throw a Dellorto carb onto a Motobecane?
I would guess about as long as it took you to come up with that response.Check it broham, your uncle, the amateur Harley mechanic, is right for his bike. You need to realize the vast differences in your bike and his. Your moped does not require more expensive, higher-octane gas. By trying to save you $.10-.$20 a fill-up, we've had to listen to your snotty replies about saving cash for college
Graham, I second the idea that you should take a step-by-step photo walkthrough of the changing of bearings in a za-50... hahaha.
Austen, you can pick up a Minarelli (or Morini, I think?) perf. exhaust from Frederico at speedkits.8k.comHe's got some sweet looking pipes there, good luck!
Can you see the bottom? I think that's where they stamped what model it was? I don't remember, though, but maybe?
What powerband does it help most through? Top-end? Does it kill acceleration? I know the za50's have the whole "high-torque" thing going for them, but is that just because they have two speeds, or is it a sprocketing issue? A friend of mine w/ an e50 used to beat me all over in top speed, but I'd pull far away from him off the line, and up hills. Also, is any modding required f
Well actually, I'm putting the two-speed ZA-50 from another MAgnum onto the body of the Newport, hopefully (if the mounting and everything lines up, if not I'll find someone w/ an E50 to trade hopefully) so I'm assuming I'll have to do a bit of modification onto both bikes.Also, how far down would I have to cut the header off the original Magnum pipes to make it work right, (if
Hey guys, I've got a Puch Newport and a Magnum, and I want a performance pipe, just to be able to hit about 35. I was wondering if any of you have put pipes on a ZA-50, what kind of work was required, and if you had any sound samples of what they sounded like with the new pipes on? I like the stock sound of the muffler now, and probably wouldn't want something too _too_ much louder, beca
Other than not calling it a "faggot" anymore, I'd recommend checking your exhaust after you check and make sure your air filter isn't clogged.
Don't worry qroject, if it just turned out of nowhere, it might just be a "gay 'til graduation" type thing, you know, like how girls make out with other girls at parties to get attention because they're self-conscious or something.
And I was curious as to the bearing and seal numbers? Anybody know what they are off the top of their heads? I'd like to go out and buy the bearings/seals first, and then crack the case after, if possible. Are they the same as the E50? If so, sorry for the post, but I'd just like to make sure.Thanks a lot guys!
I would recommend against wd-40, because when it dries, it's not a lubricant like other rust-eaters, particularly PB Blaster, some of the best stuff ever. I've had to go through this twice now on an E50 and a ZA50, and your best bet is to take the cylinder off, then just fill the bottom end with the PB Blaster and let it eat away the rust, while occasionally turning the flywheel to try a
Thanks everybody, I'll probably pick these up tomorrow someplace... MAN, I'm so excited to be running again!Basically, at the height of last season, my brakes gave out on my Grimeca mag rims... y'know, the snowflake lookin' ones for Puchs that I COULDN'T FIND NEW SHOES FOR ANYWHERE?! So, I thought I eventually found some, went through a whole huge ordeal with getting them
Okay, y'know how on the inside of spoked rims, they've got the little hub end thing that the spoke screws into, and there are a whole bunch of little nuts there? What do you do to stop the nuts from pinching tubes and screwing you? Anything? I was thinking of covering each of the nuts in a bit of "Shoe Goo":http://www.madsens1.com/graphics%5Cshoogoo02.jpg , since it saves my sk
Joe, you totally get used to it after a while. At least, on the 6v ones you do. I've never been shocked by a 12v system before... hahaha.
Looking through those three oval-shaped things, while you turn the metal wheel thing over with your hand, you should see your points opening and closing at some point there. When you find them, get it so that they're open, and then use the nail file on each side of the points (things that touch).
I would imagine that they would, but you'd have less control and a weaker fork setup on a heavier bike. I'd imagine they'd break way faster... unless you're talking about those hot hot hot EBR forks... in which case, I want to know how those stand up to Magnums too.
If you sound out "Noens", it sounds like "No N's", which would, indeed, suck really bad if you had just bought a keyboard.
I don't know, no N's? That would be awful!
You can get the Champion plug, it's a good plug too, but I run NGK's and they've never let me down. I think it's all a matter of preference. Get both, what the hell, they're 2 bucks or whatever, and you can choose which one you like best.
NGK B5HS or B6HS if the 5 is running too hot.Also, depending on the year of your bike, both the head and taillights can make a difference in whether it starts or not. Best thing to do is get new lights (which you've done) and not even worry about it.Also, like everyone said, check the wires to see if anything is shorting. It's worth a shot, and could be pretty awesome if that's all
By the way, are there any pictures of it all put together yet?
As far as the quotes, I guess I was just too lazy to hold shift and make it _italicized_... hahaha. Sorry if you were thinking I was implying something oblique.
He asked a while back about stock paint colors, and which ones were favorites. I think the yellow looks "right" on a Motobecane.... haha.
You should definitely change it, I don't know about its shelf life, or moped-life, but I know I change out all my fluids every spring, so I'd imagine after sitting 30 yrs. it could use to be changed hahaha.
Alright, you take off your magneto cover (the black circular thing w/ the puch logo on it) and then, with the flywheel exposed, spin it with your hand (obviously, preferrably in the direction that it spins with the chain hooked up ) and while doing that, watch for two little metal pieces to come apart and then press together again. If looking at it while it's upright and on the bike, I believ