Results 1–30 of 109
Tryin to sell your fuel sending unit?
I personally am in love w my 87 elite. Se50 w the variated af05 motor. Cant say much about any of the other kits available, but the malossi 70cc kit is super solid and I love it. Only thing about this motor is exhausts are hard to come by- I’m running stock exhaust, although I have the mlm that is made for se50 but it is hard to get tuned correctly without going bigger carb and some pretty major c
> bee C Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> where are the pedals if it is a moped?noob challenging jack 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Not sure of the interchangeability- but I good have a set of spoked wheels from a pinto w brake plates rubbers and everything...If anyone can confirm that they would work for you they can be all yours..
The service manual shows the wrong way. The drain tube does point to the “right”-as in the same side that the choke is on. Hope that helps
This is basically what my set up looks like when dealing with circlips on vertical motors since then..
Did the same thing rebuilding a zuma in December... I fished out the clip with a magnetized screwdriver... figure out which few you have that are magnetized and slide one on down. If you haven’t moved the bike too much since losing the clip it should literately straight down under the crank.
Air box cover/lid if it’s available?
My bro rocks an ice chest with ratchet strap...
The rubicon is correct. Always a blast
My father has had one of these (the 4x4, not 6x6) for about the past 15 years now. He initially bought it for our property in Mendocino county but it lives at my folks in the east bay. It’s the ultimate hauler for sure, pretty capable off road as well. Pretty limited by the narrow wheel base and a also pretty low to the ground-the portal axles give a bit of “extra” clearance but not a super substa
If it’s the stock carb, the bowl will screw on 2 ways, but only one is right. You want to put the bowl back on with the drain tube at the bottom facing the choke side... this could be your issue. Good luck
Hey there. I just acquired a Derbi Senda and upon getting it home I realize that when you start it (from cold) the temp light comes on. I’m hopefully assuming a bad sensor and not the radiator/pump. In the mean time til I can get a new sensor I’m throwing on cht gauge on.My question is- what are tolerable/proper cylinder head temps for a Senda with 80cc airsal kit? stock everything elseThanks in
This is literally like the fourth post you’ve made about the same bike. Just bump one of your old posts...Carcass**
I’ve got one for potential trade only...not interested in selling for money.. would be the silver one. All stock except for a tecno pipe.has the radiator and engine cowl..located in San Francisco... let me know what you’ve got
It’s a proma circuit pipe. Dr cylinder. Vm20, which could in fact be jetted improperly....? Just running the main jet it came with then plopped in a 17.5 idle jet. No amount of tuning I do to the carb affects the running of the bike though, hence me wanting to eliminate any air leaks
Ahh yes the plug. When I purchased the kit I got a new plug to go with it-without thinking bought the plug for the stock cylinder. Have been assuming it’d be alright for tuning... Thanks for narrowing that down for me
Yup. Basically a brand new kit, less than like 10 actual miles on it, the bike isn’t even tunes yet. Just feel like that’s an abnormal amount no?
Just disassembled my hobbit top end to find this. Tell me why my piston looks like this please...and what to do about it. Was originally taking apart to apply spray gasket sealer to my gaskets to eliminate air leaks, then I find this..Thanks guys
Sprayed carb cleaner at the mating surfaces of my top end after a rebuild...the bike likes to die especially when sprayed at the base of the cylinder. Was led to do this test because no amount of tuning done to my new to me vm20 does anything to help my idling issue. Was told it could be massive air leaks or an ignition issue. Trying to eliminate the air leaks before assuming it’s ignition relate
I’m turning to liquid gasket sealer to try and eliminate my hobbit’s top end air leaks. I’ve never used a product like this before- so I’m wondering do I add this to my existing gaskets?, or do I use it in lieu of the paper base and and metal head gasket?Thanks
What time will lunch be?-or better yet, will we be back in the city/mission by 2ish. Want to know if i can make this happen before work
Could be an air leak by the o ring? As there is no gasket or anything between the carb and the mlm intake... on this note-is it normal for the intake to get super cold and have condensation on the outside whilst the bike is running?Also, have not messed with the needle..what could I do to it to perhaps remedy my situation?
Hey all-Just recently plopped a vm 20 (with mlm intake) on my hobbit (dr70 kit, puchonda head, proma...)Has the stock main jet but I put in a 15 pilot jet (as opposed to the 22.5) The bike runs fine when it is choked. It also rides fine off the choke, as well as will idle fine. But while riding , when coming to a slow/stop, the bike dies-can’t even keep it alive by gassing it. The bike acts almost