Results 1–30 of 76
Adrian Salter — 2 years ago
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6v-5w-31mm-Festoon-Light-Bulb-269-Bulb/114136924176?hash=item1a93174010:g:QV0AAOSwvXReXSAPebay itemIm fairly sure you will find similar in your area, this listing may not post to you.
Adrian Salter — 2 years ago
Hi! there may be some interchangeability between yours and the PASSOLA .regulators, CDI stuff like that. worth looking into.This website may help; http://www.motorscooterguide.net/Yamaha/Yamaha.htmlYamaha ScootersWould be good to see some pics of what you have.Best of luck!
Adrian Salter — 3 years ago
Just a little rough draft...……...
Adrian Salter — 3 years ago
Received tonight! Many thanks!I shall spend it on my '69 Maxi.Adrian
Adrian Salter — 3 years ago
To add friction to the throttle twist, so it doesnt return. For cruise control.
Adrian Salter — 3 years ago
liveevil's modifications to the diagram are correct. either/or brake switch would illuminate the bulb. the mass of unnecessary ground connections erased.
Adrian Salter — 3 years ago
Something is not right with either your diagram or the wiring. There is no supply from the regulator output to the stoplight circuit. Also the brake light switches should be in parallel so that either brake will switch them on. as they are (in series) you would have to have both brake levers pulled to operate the light. I will try and redraw the diagram as it should be if you think it might help?
Adrian Salter — 3 years ago
A quick resto just for fun......
Adrian Salter — 3 years ago
I've had similar issues, only being able to see myself in the mirrors.Solution; Clamp the threaded end in a vice between 2 pieces of wood and bend the angled part another 15 degrees or so. It puts the mirror another couple of inches out and improves visibility greatly!I only use cheapy mirrors off eBay, they way too vulnerable to worry about buying expensive ones.
Adrian Salter — 3 years ago
As stated above, stainless is not as strong as 'regular' steel bolts.I say 'regular', but there are several different tensile strength classifications;4.6 4.8 5.8 8.8 9.8 10.9 12.9 the higher the number the stronger the bolt.Most common are 4.6 8.8 12.9, these numbers appear on the top of many, but not all, bolts. As a guide, stainless A2 and A4 would be ROUGHLY equivalent to 4
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Yup! Needs a spacer in here! Try about 5mm to start with. Make sure the lug for the brake hub is engaging far enough, but not quite bottoming-out.It's not a permanent fix, but you could try packing out with washers to calculate spacer size.Good luck. Adrian
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
YaY! I love the contents of your built in closet! Perhaps you could explain the purpose of those 12" diameter black discs, for the benefit of the younger generation?!
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Definitely Weller! Got 3 of them, similar to the one in the pic. Didn't pay a penny for any of them, they just needed simple repairs. Fast heating, with plenty of wattage to provide the heat for soldering larger items. Remember the wattage doesn't affect the temperature, just how capable it is of heating larger items. Try and get the old lead/tin solder with rosin flux core. modern lea
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Unlikely to damage a magneto- they are just coils of copper wire around a laminated steel core.However, be careful of all 'electronic' bits. Regulators, rectifiers, flasher relays etc. They can all be damaged by high voltage spikes that can occur when using a welder. Not sure what your particular moped might have, if in doubt, disconnect and remove it if possible.
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
It's quite simple really:We all know to check for spark, fuel, compression (often in that order)But garden machinery is all totally different!It requires the following FOUR ingredients;1) a spark of which Van De Graaff would be proud2) fuel so volatile it needs to be stored in a cryogenic vessel3) Compression so high it requires a ministry of defence licence4) MAGIC PIXIE DUST, APPLIED BY ELV
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Lathe before mill every time!you can even do some small-scale milling with a lathe.I personally favour old (or even ancient) industrial machines over brand new DIY stuffTry and get something that has a heap of tooling/accessoriesspecifically; 3-jaw & 4-jaw chucks, face plate, chuck for tailstock.A quick change tool post with a selection of tools is a great bonus.I consider myself lucky to have
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
'Tecno bos'
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
A strip of stainless steel sorted mine nicely.....
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Grinding with either a bench grinder, or an angle grinder will work.(done loads myself over the years by either method)however, go slowly. If you steam into it to fast, you will make the metal too hot and it will loose its hardness.Grind for a few seconds, then cool in bucket of water.Just grind/dip/grind/dip/grind...………………………If it glows orange or goes blue you going too heavy!!!!!
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
The plate that to which the arm (that cable hooks into) is connected, should slide up/down on the top rivet (the one in the red box top pic) (the one arrowed in last pic)The red paint is probably not helping.If it fails to move, the cam inside the hub will only push one shoe against the drum.With it moving correctly, as soon as one shoe touches, the cam moves laterally until both shoes are in cont
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Try hammering in (gently) a torx bit?Its got me out of similar situations.
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Been operating for a very long time without them. So maybe useful but d ed definitely not essentialThat's kind of how I feel...….hacksawmole gripschisel and hammera multitude of other pliersangle grinders of various sizes
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Yup! Seen similar, called Neji Saurus.Been tempted, but didn't buy them.Can anyone else confirm this kind of tool is essential????
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
LS2 with built in tinted visor
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Can I include a pic of my cat, Lotty? Or will it get the same response as a scooter related posting??
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
With lever released, it will be only slightly harder to ride than a regular push bike.Once the lever is pulled, you engage the engine and it will be 'hard going' but you should still be able to 'ride' it. you wont want to ride more than a few meters like this!!If, upon pulling the lever, it virtually stops you, there is something seriously wrong.Sorry if this is obvious, but ha
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
> ♣Slew Foot♣ Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> fat checks whist you sleep...Fat chicks??? Where from? can the really be sent in the post? Is it legal?oooops………………………………….
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Ok, most of its been covered, but I'll throw in my bit.....Cheap spanners will probably be fine.Cheap sockets will probably be fine, but the ratchet needs to be good.Cheap screwdrivers are a complete waste of money, buy the best you can afford. Cheapies will break, and damage fasteners.(3 decades of experience with a huge variety of tools in different trades)Good luck!Adrian
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
I'd go with weld some teeth back on! If you've got a MIG welder it wont take too much. Turn the current up high so you get proper penetration. Use an angle grinder with a 0.8 or 1.0mm 'slitting disc' made for stainless steel. carefully cut your teeth! Some 20 years ago I did it on the ring gear of a car, lasted for the rest of the time I owned it!
Adrian Salter — 4 years ago
Hows about an Azlk Moskvich?