Results 1–30 of 161
Thanks honkycat. I can say for sure it’s not the wheel/bearings.Can someone please educate me. If I have the recommended .3-.5mm space between starter plate and clutch material... What keeps the starter plate off clutch lining? Does centrifugal force drive it out?
The hole in the starter plate is a little large I think, large enough that the circlip can slide right through it but I’m not stressing about that. Also I noticed what truly seems to free up the spin on the back wheel is once I remove the starter plate and it’s large clip
Haha, thanks guysI pulled off the starter plate clip and the clip itself, it’s spinning 2-3x further with a comparable spin of the rear wheel.I just rebuilt this and it needed some shimming. I nailed the shim specs right in the middle of recommended range.Might it be something the do with the starter clutch lining on this aftermarket 3 shoe? I left the .4mm between plate and starter clutch... but
Is this normal amount of drag in the rear wheel when attached to drive chain only?
Does anyone know where I may find one of these crush head gaskets that will fit my 45mm tccd piston? I'm seeing some crush/copper gaskets on treatlands but only appears to be up to 43mm
I tried doing this but the puch and Tomos head gaskets I tried didn’t provide enough coverage to adequately cover the o ring impression on the head and was giving big air leaks
Does anyone have tips for getting this o ring to seat and seal well on the puch TTCD 45mm heads?https://www.treatland.tv/replacement-o-ring-for-puch-38mm-45mm-heads-p/head-o-ring.htmIt doesn't seem to seat as snug as I'd like and I'm getting inconsistent air leaks at this gasket despite torquing to spec in criss cross pattern. Thanks
I agree an imbalance to clutch springs could cause this... Something else to consider, is your starter clutch potentially partially engaged? Could the aftermarket bell have effected your shimming?
Am I able to measure/re-shim what appears to be aftermarket 3 shoe clutch without needing to split cases to get the end float measurement (assuming it's already done w/ stock crank/bell/shims)?Working on Puch Maxi that's got starter plate issues, when I put a feeler gauge behind the starter plate I'm getting easily over the 0.020 inches max recommended in manual.Measured the Lower s
Before I go dremel stator to retard timing I wanted to ask, thoughts on 180psi compression for this bike too high?
Jay, it looks like it. I took the screws off and tried pulling it off, but it would have taken more than a few pull to get it off. You're right, those aren't really clutch symptomsRoff, I don't recall anyone really bashing 15.15 SHA on puchs and have had success using one on my magnum, I will try to retard my timing for now and share the carb comment with my friend who owns the bike
Throttle slide is closing and is the stock slide. Will check the compression later, thanks.Could my back wheel spinning at idle and rapid increase in temps both be due to a clutch issue? I did notice the back wheel is a little locked up and seems to be coming from the drive chain. Looks like the previous owner JB weld the clutch case on.
Sorry, I should have included video for reference initially
I agree that's what it sounds like, but I have the top end including intake and carb fully sealed up - not able to find leaks with carb cleaner.Would a case leak or crank seal issue present like this as well?
Hey guys, looking for some input before I start further breaking this bike down... Bike starting well but with back wheel spinning faster than normal regardless of idle screw/throttle cable. Rides beautifully but gets hot fast and seems to cut out after hitting low 300sE5015.15 SHA delorto (70 jet, 74 was four stroking at WOT)15mm round input which I dremeled out to ramp out to square port on cyli
Buying magura throttle assembly, are most of the grips on treatland going to be compatible with the larger ID required on throttle side? Looking at the grips below.https://www.treatland.tv/domino-grips-A260-soft-plus-black-n-white-p/domino-grips-a26041c4046a7-0.htmhttps://www.treatland.tv/domino-grips-A450-micro-diamond-yellow-and-blk-p/domino-grips-a45041c4740b7-0.htm
Alive! It's Alive! IT'S ALIVE!Grounding out the 6v line did it, thanks for your help!
Thanks guys, it's hard to see but in this video I do have the bonding strap running from the external ignition coil bolts down to the cylinder stud bolt. I tried re-installing that all with the external ignition coil bracket, but with no luck.Does this wiring seem legit? It's the most basic form of hardwire I could find on the forums/wikiI'm thinking new external ignition coil may b
This is my first motobecane, trying to get spark. Previous owner pulled all wires/lights. Does anyone see anything wrong with this or have further recommendations? Just want spark to start the bike right now.
Friend is looking for top tank moped, please post or PM what you may have for sale
I will ride progressively longer and with more time under WOT, but within a certain radius of my home at first. Before I take my bike on an aggressive ride I like to see predictable cylinder head temperatures and consistent running conditions.
I'm really not seeing much talk on the forum search about SHA on hobbit. Anyone here use 15.15 SHA on hobbit? I'd like to discuss some building and tuning stuff
What pat said...Does it run better w/ full choke? Does it run better with air filter removed?Have you cleaned the carb? Sprayed carb cleaner to look for air leaks at all joints?
Fantastic, thank you!> Born to be WillD Wrote:> -------------------------------------------------------> I think theyre a pretty standard size thread on freewheel. you can get> freewheels for under $10 any day. bicycle size, i believe it's "french"> threading>> removing that freewheel on hobbits can be an EPIC pain in the ass> though. You need a proper sized
Are you able to clean and repack hobbit freewheel? If so please advise howMine is in relatively good shape but not gliding without feeling of grit or inconsistent locking
I rebuilt bottom/top end of hobbit. 70cc DR, 15.15 SHA (may go back to stock), proma estoril.Just put new tube/tire on front, repacked bearings and brakes look good.Taking back off end now, making me think what else I should hit while I have it all broken down?Things I'm considering, are they necessary/worth it?- variator mod- rear well transmission modification/rebuild?- reedsI feel I have t
Ok, I'm sure I will be able to clean it out pretty easily, but not so sure how easily it will be to get grease in there. Any recommendations?
Working on my hobbit wheels. New tires/tubes. Repacking bearings.One thing I'm not sure about is how to best handle the speedo drive... Should it be "repacked" or anything of the sort?Thank you
I see a lot of people using that carb. I'm so used to swapping out stock carbs as a necessity for some of my other bikes, I didn't even think about re-using the kehlin
I am not seeing many comparable builds to mine to base my initial jetting and timing off... I have a little PTSD from my last attempt at this kit and want to make sure I'm not chasing the right tune by over-lean conditions.I have a hobbit w/ DR 70cc cylinder, 46mm head, proma circuit, mlm 15 sha intake, 15.15 dellorto sha.Stock transmission as far as I know and stock reeds...Does anyone have