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I've got a '78 Scorpion with old Italian wheels (Facem "SAS" Radaelli). I'm not sure what my options are for building this new axle/bearing set out. Don't remember the measurements right now but bearings are flush with wheel well, takes a bit to push them in.What do I need on the inside of the axle well regarding spacers? What does my axle setup need to look like?I
It was the end of the cable where it meets a hook piece, the cable seemed to be frayed/rusted and was preventing the hook piece from being able to slide at all within the metal receiving tube it was in. I attached a picture of the hook piece.
I think I've finally found it!Had popped some tubes and spent a lot of time on some other life stuff. I had assumed I reassembled my clutch incorrectly but went out to do some work this morning. I found that the clutch cable hook gets jammed and the ball bearing starter piece that pushes against the clutch to start it doesn't return back to it's normal spot.Ever had any problems wit
Thanks Don, sorry for my delay last couple days have been hectic. Going to work tomorrow night and pull the clutch back off and see what I might have mucked up.
After putting my engine back together I'm noticing some binding and my engine shuts off unless I'm holding WOT. Pedals spin freely even with clutch side case loosely on; becomes really hard to pedal as soon as I tighten any bolts. Repacked wheel bearings, wheel seems to be on fine, chain has about an inch of slack so I'm pretty sure it's the engine causing the problem.
Hate dropping those. Stupid engineering design. I'd be interested though if I weren't out in MN.
It looks like both my headlight and taillight bulbs are both blown. I can't find much about scorpion other than 6v 23w bulbs are standard. Can someone point me towards a pair of those?
Thanks for the insights. Picked it up for $300, it's running and pushing to 30 mph without any adjustments/work. Only issue to fix immediately I see is rotting tire.
Thanks. How bad is tank rust? Coated a tank I had before and it seemed to hold/push fuel through the petcock just fine, but I don't know if coating is long lasting or not.
Currently looking to buy a '78 Scorpion, standard Morini on it. It runs, looks to be in good condition, dirty but not rusty or beat. 2300 miles, looks like carb needs some work as it's been sitting awhile. Seller is asking $400 and this is my first time purchasing a running ped, does that seem to be a good price point?
Sorry all for lack of response have been on the road. Ped had been taken already.
Aha true sorry. I'm in VA Beach.
I'm leaving the state tomorrow and can't take this with me so come and get it!Put a lot of time and money into this. I'm out of time as I'm moving across the country and I can't take this with me.Still does not run properly, had it running at one point but was not running efficiently.Things I've purchased/done:-sealed gas tank-new tires/tubes-rebuilt carb-new chain-ne
Put a lot of time and money into this. I'm out of time as I'm moving across the country and I can't take this with me.Still does not run properly, had it running at one point but was not running efficiently.Things I've purchased/done:-sealed gas tank-new tires/tubes-rebuilt carb-new chain-new seals/bearings/gaskets-newer crankshaft-new piston/rings-recorked clutchesStill needs
Where are the main spots to check? Obviously there's the gaskets between the casings and then the head; I've just replaced all of those. I'm just not sure where to check for leaks. I did get the bike to run, though it's going about 5 mph at this point.
video of my Tomos dyingTook a video of what happens when it dies. What does it sound like? How much does muffler packing affect starting/dying? I did pop off the silencer for repacking; the packing that was in it was terrible disgusting but the muffler itself seems like there's not much buildup.
I rebuilt the carb with all new gaskets/new filter. The first thing I did was seal the tank, it was bad rusty. Should I be running an inline filter just to be safe?
I just thought of something. I had to recork my clutch, as five of the six clutch pads were gone. On the inner side of the bell my cork was a little too thick; I sanded it down quite a bit and the clutch fits snuggly but has some room to move. Does it need to be less snug/could this be part of my problem?
Yeah I really had no business purchasing the bike I have. I lucked out on getting it running.I think compression makes the most sense, there's a chance air leak is still happening.I'm just running the SHA 14.12, I think it had a 59 jet on it when I picked it up. I've got a biturbo exhaust, I can't tell if it's clogged up at all.
Seems likely. I also think I may need to upjet. I'm running a 63 right now, I've got a 60mm mesh screen filter with a foam insert. Do you know how much the jet affects the ability to idle? I noticed that when I extended my throttle and unscrewed my idle jet, it seemed to have an easier time (aka I think it's getting too little gas).
I purchased my Tomos non-running. I replaced the piston/crankshaft/gaskets and got everything together last night. I was only able to start on WOT, as soon as I let go it would die, and after about 10 seconds at WOT it would die as well. It doesn't seem like it was revving up to full speed on WOT. I have no idea what the issue is and there's a solid chance this has been addressed els
Yup! Looking for a new crank.
Vinegar method worked well for me, though it was difficult to get the tank completely flushed. I did POR15 to seal, created a really good seal from what I can tell.
Like I said, bad decision making is my forte.Good thing people like you can help me not make as many bad decisions.
How bad of an idea would it be to JB weld this back together? As far as operating temp goes it seems like not too bad an idea.But I'm really good at making bad decisions.
Because I like to learn the hard way. :)I'm a moped noob, I tried to use a punch to hold the rod in place to get the nut off the clutch assembly...bad bad bad choice.
Do I need a whole crank or can i press out the old rod for a new one?