Results 1–30 of 124
So I've had piston/head off.....all good. No noticeable play on rod in different positions (slight sideways movement). Moderate bearing-type noise when rotating with pedal......with piston/head re-installed there is much more noise and quite hard to turn over.So I guess all the main bearings are shot ? A complete new set is 42 euros but I'm not sure/confident about taking engine apart re
Thanks....I will investigate further. I've rested my finger under rod and rotated crank with pedal....rough constant friction noise all the way.The right pedal has at some stage been bent inwards which would take some force. I wonder if 20/30/40 years ago...maybe bike was abused by young lads then taken off the road. I guess the force to bend a pedal might damage the crank.The bike (like many
Small movement sideways.....none up-and-down.....which I'm hoping is a good sign !?
Thanks.....doesn't seem to be any play. I too had the orange 2-speed which was almost like new.....sold it 6 months ago and now regret it.....pretty original ones hard to find. This green 3-speed....I reckon a teenager has given it a bit of a hard life and it was then taken off the road. I'll drain the oil....see what comes out !
Guessing off road at least 20 years. Bore and piston look good/oil at correct level. One conrod circlip was incomplete/damaged(the curly bit to fit it missing).Turning the engine over....mucho noisio/rumblio down below !I've had these bikes before and they are normally quite bullet-broof....I was hoping a good plan might be to fill the engine with something suitable and let it sit and work it
Thanks.....I removed all connections in switch and re-fitted. Wirebrush/cleaned connectors that hold switch to bars....which I believe is the ground.Sorry.....electrics I'm clueless although I did buy a multimeter......do a place multimeter between horn wire/bars then kill switch/bars ? I've read a few articles that suggest Puch horns can cause a few issues but switches rarely go fa
Thanks. Have cleaned (contact cleaner) all connections and bars. New earth connection to frame (behind horn). Tried connecting horn wires together.......same as before......lights work,kill switch doesn't. Horn is live when tested on a 6v battery. Not sure what to try next.
On re-assembling the little grommet-thingy which holds the metal horn strip in place broke off. I've re-fixed using tiny bolt(2nd photo). Situation now is neither horn nor kill switch work.....all that works is head/tail-light on middle setting. Just wondered if this is causing a short (was original fixing coated ?). I cleaned and wiped all connections with electrical contact cleaner. Both ho
Thanks....will try tomorrow although they are brand new points and condenser. The bike was stored (possibly in damp conditions) since 1977......could coils be rotten ? Maybe need to be a new stator plate with new coils etc....?
Tried earthing horn elsewhere, connecting brown wires to bypass.....no change.Weird thing earlier today managed to get decent spark with plug resting on cylinder, engine fired briefly then died and no spark once more......????
Thanks so much for advice so far.....really don't know what next.I've fitted brand new points and condenser. Points set .4mm/opening just before TDC.Headlamp/tail bulbs tested (battery pack)- all good. Have checked all connections.New plug and cap (have tried several plugs). Horn checked/earthed.No spark at points. The only clue I can find is that,if you rotate magneto and press the hor
I've checked vent several times....all good. Even left it untightened when trying to start in case this was the problem. Will fit new condenser and points today.....there is no spark at present.
I'm wondering if that might be problem. It sparked and started briefly this morning then died again and now can't get any spark .....been fiddling with the points....re-gapping/checking etc......nothing !
It sparks.....ole ! Not exactly sure why but after cleaning and resetting the points again and checking connections, off it sparked. Maybe after sitting since 1977, it just needed a thorough clean. Thanks for all the tips. John.
Oh lordy ! I reckon I'm missing something obvious here......I disconnected black wire from engine as suggested- no difference. I disconnected horn(original one) and reconnected with new clips.....horn works when pedals turned.....none of the lights do now ! Dismantled/cleaned light/horn switch in case I got some oil in by mistake. All connections checked...ok. Someone said that only post 197
Just found your article from last year.....my 1975 Puch VZ50 will not spark and I was assuming it could be a break in the system(horn or bad bulb etc) but I guess not ?It was running recently but then stopped..... now tail light and horn work but no spark....have cleaned points,checked connections etc. Maybe just new points as had been standing for many years ?
Have cleaned points (again), checked connections...seem ok.Latest is (as I turn engine by hand).......no spark at points.....horn works but lights don't (bulbs are good). Some gremlin somewhere.
Can't see any obvious faults....but will check again.
A lot of articles about lack of spark but I'm stumped......was getting a spark laying plug on cylinder head(tried different plugs) but now no spark....have checked/cleaned points....no spark there when turning. There had been a loose connection in headlamp which I had to reconnect or could it be an issue with kill switch or someone said a blown bulb could cause loss of spark. Bike is 1975 VZ5
Saturday.....I'd forgotten how much "fun" can be had getting an old moped going. Think I have finally sorted carb out.....now there is no spark (well it sparked a little resting on cylinder head just the once but not now). Put new sparkplug cap on, checked and cleaned points.....no spark at points.I removed piston/rings and cleaned- all looks good. Someone mentioned a while ago tha
Thanks for that....was what I was thinking.....WD40/carb cleaner to clean .....then a smear of 2 stroke/engine oil when re=assembling ?
The moped had been off the road since 1977 but has started (with difficulty) and run/ridden although temperamental....plus fairly smokey....so maybe not carb issue after all ?
Still can't find issue with carb so I took head off and removed piston. Lot of carbon build-up.Otherwise piston/rings etc look good although I noticed that,when I removed piston from head one/possibly both rings remained compressed although they pinged out shortly after......could this be reason for stop/start running ? Clean with WD40 and re-assemble ?
Yes....I have removed washer. Bike was running/riding yesterday.....went to it this morning.....nothing ?!!!! Good spark at plug, fuel in carb bowl.....I just can't figure it. I cleaned the carb everywhere again....can't see the problem.....driving me nuts !
I didn't realise that the needle on this type of float was adjustable (pulls in and out with pliers).....could it be set at wrong level?
Not sure what to try next.....bike starts,runs for about 1 minute then dies.So far checked....petrol tap good/fuel flowing, exhaust/baffles cleaned, carb dismantled/cleaned, float good (it floats in cup of water) and looks straight etc,throttle slide works good,air filter good, replaced leaking idle screw, fuel cap vent clear......I'm guessing it's using up fuel in carb and no more is ge
Thanks for that. The bolt/screw that was in place when I got the bike, is slightly loose but threads....obviously enough room for fuel to escape. Looks like a 3mm thread to me.....just wondered if these old mopeds are metric or maybe a different thread ?
Think I've finally narrowed down poor running to someone fitting any old screw which was allowing fuel to leak past. Photo 1 is my bike, photo 2 is what the haynes manual shows and photo 3 shows what I bought on-line for a 12mm bing carb which I guess mine is ?( 1975 Puch VZ50...carb number: 1/12/197). The supplied screw is too big and doesn't seem to match the one in the book with a loc
The screw that has been placed here wiggles from side to side so I guess if fuel is escaping here, this will mess up the mixture etc.......I'll order new screw from the puchshop in Austria......not sure on jet size.....standard, I guess. Thanks for info. John.