Results 1–30 of 123
Everything you have there looks stock. I would not mess with it further. More holes in the back of the baffle will likely hurt performance and sound way loud relative.Look at Myrons web site for Puch speed versions and a bing chart to get your jetting started on the 14MM. The wiki has good info too.You can even hide a more high flow filter under the side cover.Keep it stockish. Nothing wrong with
So that early in the US they were 2hp and the ones I remember were 30+ stock. Good top end.All that got modified down with more regulation.They S I remember were white, that lime green you have, a cool purple.
Great color. Those were the really early years in the US. Has that funky rear light with the rubber strap - which is gone on this. There was a purple color back then too that you almost never see.These early ones were fast stock (relative).
So good to see the use of plastigauge.Limiting the need for the ‘factory’ tools.Nice work.
I think it was around $50 all in? Can’t remember. You can go to their web site. There are others that do this work too.
I am able to confirm that a 34 is as small as you can go. Chain sits just off the wheel hub. It was made by rebel gears. Quick turnaround. Sent them the original to get the center hole right and got them both back.Running 19 front 34 rear. ZA with a Polini, 15 bing and a cranks pipe.
Caleb I’ve got an N also. Love to see what you’ve got.Mark Lear is the guy to connect with. There are a bunch of us that hang and work out of his shop.We can guide you through any issues with the bike you might be having. More importantly, and then ride.Keith
There’s a group in Santa Fe. The Goat Heads.Look them up.
Bump for moped seat guy. Got mine back and he did a great job. Easy to work with, reasonable cost and communicates well. Got it back to a stock look.Plus a bonus Brute Squad sticker.What’s not to like?
Bump for a good seller. Good communication too. My stuff was shipped the day of our conversation and arrived intact and as expected. The mail and packages have been unusually slow lately. Not his fault.
Pm sent on a few of the bits. Thks
Larry - you and I have met at the Richmond rally.I’m in meetings all day tomorrow Friday but here is my cell number XXX-XXX-XXXX.Call tomorrow night and let’s talk about how to make it happen for you.I live in Raleigh - with the DuValsI’ll be home Saturday. Durham is not far away and we’ve been talking about getting to Richmond.Shoot me your number too.Keith
Anyone know what has happened to David in the Norfolk VA area. In used to like his you tube videos of moped projects and rebuilds. He hasn’t posted in a long time. Met him at a Richmond rally.Hope he’s OK.Keith
Yes different. The N is a bit shorter on the arm with the notch. The one from Sobak looks visually right.
Nice. Reminds me of my build.
Andy make sure you check this out.I used it for my build and found it helpful.https://magnumdash.wordpress.com/2010/03/18/guide-pro-tips-to-building-a-puch-polini/
Agreed. Find a flat heat bit with no play in the screw head. It will be awkwardly large.Yes manual impact driver Is the best. Whack it with a hammer.Best to put the whole thing in a wooden or other soft grip vice and attack that screw firm and straight on from the top. I like your heat idea too.
Hmm. Used plastiguage to check the end float on the clutch cover bearings only. Saw it on a blog. Requires taking the cover on/off multiple times. Only thing I could do as I had no specialty tool.
Plastiguage. I have reliably rebuilt 3 ZA50s with this product.Forget the tool.
Nathan PMd. May have what you need.
Looking for used parts to complete this bike. Stuff doesn’t have to be pretty to go along with the theme.Grey maxi N side covers. Set of black cover screws if you have them too.The chrome N carry handles on the center of the bike. These seem impossible to find outside of new from overseas.A working original Superman black tail light housing/base. I have a good lens and chrome inside piece but the
This has been a many years long quest to find and build this N. Found the bike towards the beach. Was covered in white and black plasti-coat, non running but pretty complete. The idea is to make a maxi N rat-like bike with a ZA.Quite a process to remove all that covering (gasoline) and I plan to keep the original paint and prior owners ‘sanding’ as is. It’s amazing how well the original red paint
That was a great deal and a good seller.
Eric - just completed this build with your help. The tail light was one you gave me at your rally in Charlotte and the ZA has internal bits that you gave me too.Just now breaking it in. Runs smooth. Malossi 62cc, 15 bing w intake, proma GP. Standard set up that is so reliable for me. Thank you. Next up is the maxi N.Keith
So nice. Always thought the LS was top of the line in late model puch. That color was rare.
Thanks for the responses. Yes my gut was right on making the notch deeper on the snowflake brake arm to fit. Drill and an angle grinder. Preserves both the bike and the snowflake for another application. Want to avoid the quick fix if I can.I'll post progress. Adding a ZA w kit to the snowflakes and then keeping the rest stock-like with original paint patina rust sander-grind whatever. A rat
Putting snowflakes on and I can tell the brake cover arm that locks into the rear swing arm frame is too long. I was warned of this but don’t have an immediate easy solution other than grinding/cutting the arm down to fit the smaller N spacing.Note in the pics below the stock N wheel and brake cover arm (on the black rims...I know why did the PO plasti-coat them!) is shorter. On the bike in the pi