Results 1–30 of 47
This Tomos repair manual sucks!! I am trying to figure out where the idle adjustment screw on the carb is. When my LX gets warm the idle is too low and it will stall at a stop. It is pretty low when it is cold too. It just need a little adjustment. Where is the screw? Is it the one on the right side of the ped (as you sit on it) with the dpring on it?Jeff
The kid who had it before me was using some kind of red 2 cycle oil. Having never seen a red 2 cycle oil, I drained it out of the tank and added some Synthetic oil (blue). The red stuff was still in the lines. I have run it for a few miles and I can see the blue stuff on the top of the line, but at the bottom of the line, it is still red.Is there a red 2 cycle oil (it was sweet smelling)? How
I have 2 2004 Tomos mopeds (one Targa and one targa LX). The one I bought new (the Targa) has a slight amount of smoke from the exhaust when it is cold. The LX does not have any smoke. How do I know it is getting the proper amount of oil? Should I get a little smoke when it starts?
The ones I bought are supposed to be rated for over 60MPH. Not sure how fast a racing moped goes.
I just checked my Navel Jelly jar and it says to rinse it out with water. I guess if you use the Navel Jelly Rust Neutralizer the water would'nt harm anything. I am not really sure.Jeff
Yeah, I beleive you called them Cheng Shits in one of your past posts. I assumed that the cheaper brand on line was probably the Cheng Shin or the Slovanian tires that came on the ped.Thanks for the info,Jeff
I used Naval Jelly on some rusted parts on my outboard and it worked awesome. Never heard of using rocks or screws or chains, but that would probably work too. It would just be hard to get them out of the tank. I think you can clean up the Naval Jelly with gas. Make sure you where gloves. Its nasty stuff!!
I just bought some Sawa tires on-line. They were more expensive than the other brand (they did not give a name) but still pretty cheap. Are they any good? I do not see much in the way of posts about them.Jeff
I am not sure, but my problem might be resolved. I noticed that in order for my rear wheel to be close to straight, my adjusters can not be even on both sides. The reason (I think) is that on the left side (facing the rear of the ped) there is a deeper groove (maybe 1/8" deeper) than on the right side. The left side has to be set further in then the right side for the wheel to be straight.
It does not look like a big deal to me. I picked up the spring and gasket this afternoon. I made some changes to the rear wheel alignment and want to test it before I open up the tranny. The chain actually looked like it was twisting a little. I realigned the wheel to be better centered and the chain looked straight. The adjusters are not exactly the same on both sides now, but it appears to
thanks for the info. I will check the tracking first and then take the cover off of the tranny and see what it looks like.Jeff
The sprocket shaft seems OK. I have no problem taking the right side apart if I need to. I just have no rear idea what I need to look for. I think the problem might be what I said in my first post. It was chewed up some.As for the tracking, I am not sure if it is correct. I have been having a bear of a time keeping the adjusters from moving on one side or the other. From time to time when it
1/2 is what I have now and it keeps skipping. I can not see what it is actually going on while I am riding it. As long as I don't get on it too hard its OK. If I am at full throttle and it shifts to 2nd gear it will almost always slip. If I let off, it seem to be fine.
It seems like the issue only happens when the chain is a little loose. When it is tight (more then likly too tight) it seems OK. I am goin to try starting out with it a little loose and see what happens. Thanks for the info.Jeff
I have been having problems keeping my chain tight, but I do not think it is causing this issue. If I do not have the chain very tight, when the ped shifts (ip or down) is sounds like the chain is skipping. I just replaced both sprockets and he chain thinking that my issue had to be one of them, and they wee all a little worn. Although it is no longer as bad, it still skips. I noticed (when re
I was having problems with the nuts on my rear wheels coming loose and my chain getting very loose and slipping. I traced the problem to the axle threads being bad. I replaced the axle, but the adjusters keep moving when I tighten them. Any tricks to getting them to stay put.
I figured it out. The tab that goes into the wheel was broken off. I replaced the mechanism and it works fine.
The speedometer on my 04 Tomos Targa LX does absolutely nothing. I tightened the cable, but still nothing. I am not sure where to start troubleshooting this thing.Jeff
I have to agree with the donp stuff. This site especially donp have been great.To defend Steve's a little. Cesar (the Mexican as I have seen him called) has given me some good pointers a few times. He seems OK. I would much rather do the stuff myself with the help of this site. I have seen how much Steve's charges for parts, I don't want to imagine how much his service charges
excellent idea!! I had not thought of using that. I think I even have some. I noticed that they are almost at the end of their adjustment. I guess the chain got stretched out some when the sprocket went bad. I should probably get a new one.
I have noticed that the nuts on the chain adjusters seem to loosen up on me a little. I loosened them the other day to mess with the chain tension and now they seem to be backing off a little. Any way to keep them tight. I was going to try a lcok washer, but that might impede the operation of the adjuster.
I actually found 2 issues when i took off the sprocket. It was extemely loose and I could move the nut with my hand. The other issue was that the edges of the toothed colar (I think that is what it is called) were a little worn on the edges. I guessthat was from the sprocket being loose. I am beginning to beleive that the posts about Steve's Moed are correct. They are the ones that put t
I got it. I was using a piece of wood as a buffer between the hammer and the pin. I put some WD-40 on it and it still would not budge. I finally got pissed off and wacked it directly with the hammer and it flew out. I replaced the sprocket and the sprocket shaft seal with no further issue. Now I have to wait until tommarow to try it out. (its a little too loud to be drivng this late)Thanks fo
That is what I thought I was supposed to do, but it does not seem to want to come off. I have been beating the shit out of it, and it will not budge. Any tricks?
I am trying to replace the front sprocket on my 04 Targa LX but can't figure out how to get the pedal off of the shaft. I have the nut off of the bolt. Now what?
I am not seeing the seal in the repair manual. Is it installed from the inside of the gearbox or can I install it from behind the sprocket?Thanks for all the help. Everyone on this site has been great and a huge help. Once I get used to repairing this thing, I won't ask so many questions. I am actually pretty good with a 2 stroke motor, just not with the gears.
Wow, I screwed that one up. Try tis post.https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/6/867/867/
Try this posthttps://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/discuss/6/867/867/
I think I might take it in and have it replaced at a repair shop. The sprocket looks very easy to replace, but the seal looks like it could be a bear. If I am rading the manual correctly, it is pressed into the casing. The sprocKet that is bad is a 27 tooth sprocket. Any idea what this should cost?
I think I found the issue with this thing. It is actually shifting, but the chain is slipping on the front sprocket when it down shifts. I was feeling the chattering but thought it was in the gear box. The front sprocket is pretty worn out.Is it just the bolt and the collar washer that hold it on? If that is it, I can replace it myself. I also noticed that I am getting some fluid from behind