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My head would be mounted on a DR 70cc, but what exactly did you do? You put that head on and dropped about 100°?Or slotted something and got the temp change?
Hmmmm good to know. The mount for the engine is extended three inches back, so the tank and petcock on mine should not interfere any. I also have the head stud mod, but with threaded rod so there shouldn't be any issue with threads ending.Thank you for the input. I think I may see what I can do with that one, and I may put much Puch one for sale. Its the "super street" which is more
Browsed the search function a bit, and can't seem to find what I am looking for. Has anyone had experience with both the PuchHobbit and DerbiHobbit head? It appears the Derbi one looks to have better cooling fins and should run cooler. Would be interested for anyones first hand experience feedback.Currently would want a sport touring head for my PA-50II to have reliable cruising temps.
^ That was the goal, as I never really found any straight forward input for what I wanted to do. Mostly I found people would quickly respond with "Get a TJT" which didn't help me much
http://i43.tinypic.com/1975vq.jpgThis is a picture how it should look. I still run my stock filter inside the subframe with a thin coat of filter oil. This just prevents larger debris and dirt from coming in around your carb. It takes its air from a passage inside the subframe if you take out your stock filter.
The endurance belt that I have is about a quarter inch shorter than my last, not sure if the last one that was on it was the correct one or not, that's the one that came on the bike when I purchased it. I havnt had any problems with it.I find it odd yours came with 18x14, especially ones those heavy. I read up on this, and it was said it comes with 4 gram 16x13 which that is what mine came wi
The TJT does give a taller ratio, but with that comes more length that we don't have in the belt, and the tighter and tighter it will become. Ide like to think that this Trick6 is a decent "middle of the road" one.I have been reading and keeping up with the DOS variator thread. Eager to hear what someone says on that and how that one is just out of curiousityAnd also out of curiosit
Here is a more up front, and maybe a little more clear thread which explains the Trick6 variator and what the goods, the bads, the claims, and the truths actually are..I bought mine within the past month trying to steer away from the TJT, which that was the initial point of it. After reading up, and trying all different keywords in the search bar trying to find more information it seemed like ther
I installed hire engagement rpm springs but I wasn't all for that so I took them out and I'm back with stock for now. As many said, apparently I had to see for myself but while the 16 x 13 roller weights are just a tad too small in the trick six variator, once a variate it out completely it struggles to set back into place partially from the small roller weights but another issue is the
It is points, in going to try a couple jetting things first but I will read up on that write up for sure! Good find!
Not any hotter than it normally would. I jumped up to a 96 Main to put a little more fuel to cool down while rolling on the throttle and moved one clip setting for my three-quarter range, but it still acted just the same so I put it back to my Nona settings . It definitely is more pronounced once it is up to temp and has been written for a little while.
This may have been answered but I've read through what I could find with the search bar but....Scenario:Runs great once starting to go on a ride through town, the warmer it gets and longer I'm riding, the bigger the big from a dead stop trying to get up to speed. 2 times stopping at red lights the bogs fairly ehhhh but at gets out of it. About 5 more and it almost wants to big and stall
Not sure if I'll go 94 then back to top clip or just 94 and leave my needle down a clip. Every scenario is different with location and all your factors. Once it's right I feel it'll be a strong combination
I have the same setup... not that it counts for anything but I was running a 92 Main with needle on the top clip. Just adjusted to a 96 and down a clip and I think I went over a bit. It's all about trial periods after tuning. Cumbersome but it's what you have to do until you find your happy medium.
This was the first light. Half lit up, the other half apparently "out to lunch"The current light is only a few in the middle. Both lights the running lights didn't seem to work on it anymore. I will hook up a regulator regardless for future reference, but I do not think this is the issue.
Attached is an image of the LED tail light I have been buying for my '78 PA-50II. I have bought two of them and I have my third one on the way. The issue...First things first, i believe (and correct me if I am wrong) but this light is safe for a 12v system. My system is still 6v points. I am kitted so I am making over 6, but I highly doubt I am making over 12v. So no I do not have a regulator
Get the DR. Just went up from a 92 to a 96, and went up one clip. Runs much better and performs great!Also may I ask how you like your Trick6 so far? Thoughts,
Thinking over the winter about upping the ante with my forks and front brake setup. I grab a fist full of brake as it is right now and it doesn't do me much good with the drum brakes, want to convert to a disc. While doing that I need a fork upgrade too, so the stock hobbit forks wont get pounded by the bumps as bad.Posted below is the setup im thinking about going with (other than the disc)
I'll second the swingarm extension. That would be a great sell for those wanting to stuff a larger carb in there, as well as helping with stability at higher speeds.Mikuni and Dell are both reputable, just all what you want for preference and what your plans are with your hobbit...Mine seem to never end $$$
I went with the Malossi 21mm PHBG kit, and I love it. Its a hassle to tune since its such a tight fit, but once you get your tuning down I like it. More of a tucked in and cleaner look. It fits really well, but it is horseshoed in there so it is tricky when youre in your jetting stages trying to figure out where you're at...Despite the claims what they put in for jet sizes, all were correct e
When I had picked my Hobbit up I started with basics, as it too didn't run. cleaned out the tank heavily, and once cleaned, bought brand new petcock.Luckily I didn't have to mess with my points system as that was alright.Replaced all the fuel line into the carb, as the previous owner bought a stock clone carb off amazon for very cheap (might be something to think about as well, unless yo
Was interested in the kit I posted because of the many different weighted rollers to give me a chance to try them and see what works best for me. Just wanted to know if 16x13 would be alright and usable
While seeing the measurements taken on the wiki on the Hobbit roller weight dimensions, curious if any of you know or run a 16x13 roller weight. Not sure if it will work properly or not. Currently don't have my hobbit or clutch apart to look at and verify.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LESCZHS/
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All parts from my very clean 1978 PA-50 II. Reason for selling is I have modified and replaced parts with upgraded ones. All parts for sale are in good working condition with no issues. All parts bought are priced accordingly with shipping not included. You are also responsible for paying for shipping as well.Speedo with 1126 miles: $20Stock OEM 280mm shocks: $45Stock clone carb with intake (clean
Mind you those are close, rough but close. I also took the measurement that was gotten for me by Marc I believe. He stated that it was around 11 inches from top shock mount point to top of swing arm, but the bottom shock mounts a little above that point so I gave it a 10.5 inch measurement instead.This also makes sense why you have 400mm shocks, your engine mount is quite far back after seeing you
The stats I came up with so far
Some of them are but they're coming from the same place... tons of those on Aliexpress coming from China. Like he says they're all the same basically.Still no one with a measurement? Hahaha
All good talk. Stretching can accommodate easier carb work, and larger carb, plus a more stable ride as well, I will be doing EBR forks maybe at the end of the year with a take off brembo disc brake and caliper from my KTM motocross bike. Got many parts from that, but that's for another day, and another thread...Yes the stock forks are chinsy, and will suffice for a little bit but will not st
I see the similarities... hmmm. I guess it doesn't matter as much. What size did you go with? And if you know great if you don't no big deal but I guess it wouldn't matter if you didn't raise the back end of your moped, what is your vertical height from mounting point to mounting point? Figured someone on here may know, and if not may throw a quick tape measure on it.Thanks for
RFY something you run? The only good thing I liked on these was the hard and soft compression, and fast and slow rebound... whether it works or not who knows. I'm sure I'll be able to make whatever work, but I really don't want to end up getting a clevis end and rigging that.