Results 1–27 of 27
I have a nsu quickly speedo clock but it has a longer body which dose not seem to fit in the steel headlamp or the plastic one piece headlamp. I wondered is belong to any of the quickly models. Can any one tell what model does it belong to.
I hate to admit it, but i know nothing about powdercoating.
Just a few more questions: Q1 After stripping back to the bare metal, is it important to get the primer on straight away. Q2, Is spraying in direct sunshine a good idea. Q3 Is it really important to finish with clear-coat. Q4 Will a petrol spill always damage the paintwork. Q5 Can anyone give me an idea of how much time to leave between the different paint coats. Thanking you in advance.
Cant show whole bike as i have stripped off most of the parts. I have noticed that the frame which is painted in a different colour does not have any cracking. All of the top coat paint is of the same brand. (Holt's). One thing i am guilty of is using cheap and different brands of primer. Wonder if this is causing all of the trouble.
Thanks to you all for replying to my question. I have got plenty of valuable info from you all. Im sure it obvious to you that when it came to doing a good spray job i didnt have a clue. So it's back to work for me, armed with new info.
Thanks to all of you who took the time to reply to my question. It seems like i've broken all the rules when it comes to painting. Not properly wiping it down before priming, not leaving enough time between coats, and not using same brand paints. I suppose i did not think all these things were that important, (lesson learned) Do you guys recommend any particular brand of paint , i used H
That varied wildly from just allowing the primer to dry, to leaving it for a day or longer.
Thanks for replying, i should have mentioned that i stripped the bike back to the bare metal. I put on a couple of coats of primer and a couple of top coats. A lot of work, that's why i'm so disappointed with the cracking.
Restored old NSU Quickly about a year ago. I painted it using spray cans (rattle can). I stored it in dry condition's but when i took it out a week ago the paintwork was badly cracked with spider web like cracks running in all direction's. Any one got any ideas why this happened.
Just got a 1957 (or59) NSU Quickly, its got leg shields and 23 inch wheels . i need some parts for it but i dont know what model it is. Can anyone help?.
Thanks guys for your replies, I will try out your suggestions and see how it works out.
Ops: sorry folks for misusing the moped forum and being a bit of a nuisance. I really want to restore this old m10 that is why I came on here looking for parts and advice. Thanks to all who responded to my posts it is much appreciated.
cannot get proper con rod for moped, could I use a slightly shorter one (would the bike still go?). Is it possible to cut a longer one and weld it. WOULD THE WELD HOLD UP?
Looking for con rod kit and piston kit for Kawasaki m10. Can anyone help?.
Got a Kawasaki m10: it needs a con rod kit, and piston kit. Anyone got these items for sale, or know where I might get them. Fingers crossed!.
Does anybody out there have a wiring diagram for a Kawasaki m10. Could you please post it here. I dont have a clue how to re-connect the wires. Thanking you in advance.
Thanks folks, I did ask a crappy question and I got some crappy answers. I would really like to know if this bike should have a vin number. There is a short number (5 digits) on it, is this a serial number??. Would it be hard to get parts for it. Please help! HAPPY CHRISTMAS ALL.
Thank's for the reply's, will try to post a pic. Can you tell me if it's a rare bike, is it possible to get parts for it, should it have a vin number on it.
I recently purchased an old Kawasaki (1960s) M10 50cc bike. Can any of your members tell me anything about this bike.
You are on to someting there Chris, there is no rubber tip on my fuel needle. I did wonder how you could form a seal with metal on metal. A new fuel needle may be the answer. Im sure you all have gussed at this stage that im a complete greenhorn at this game. Only took it up when i retired, but i love it.
OK Andy, thanks for that.
I have tried everything to no avail. It seems to be the float needle because if i fill the bowl with gas and screw it up to the carb it doesnt leak straight away. 18 TO 20 MPH I AINT EVER GOING TO GET A SPEEDING TICKET.
Yes my bike is an MF4 and was bought in Germany in 1970.The carb on the right of your pic seems like mine. I notice in your pic that the choke slide is missing from the components, mine is also missing are they really needed??.
My Kreidler's carb keeps leaking gas no matter what i do to stop it. Its a Bing 10mm carb. I was looking on Ebay for repair kits but they all seem to fit bigger carbs.Can i use a kit for a 12mm carb.
Im almost afraid to ask, but why 3 ports when i have only 2 wires ??.
Thank you guys for responding to my question. Just to let you know i dont have a clue about mechanics or vehicle wiring, i just took on this restoration after retiring, Now i also have a problem with computers, i tried to upload a photo of the bike but it is larger than the 2MB allowed and i dont know how to compress it. Im sorry if i am wasting your time, thanks again.
I am restoring a 1970 Kreidler moped MF4. There are two wires coming out of the engine i presume they are "live" and "earth" can you tell me are these connected to a voltage regulater or some other device before they go to to the headlight, tailight, and stop switch. There is no switch on it at the moment but i presume there should be one. Can anyone HELP.