Results 1–30 of 79
So I am going to hone it a bit more and call it good for now. Since my piston has damage at the ring lands and the rings are bad i ordered the Namura piston kit off ebay which includes rings, wrist pin and clips. Looked for other kits and they were either much more expensive or not available in std bore.Had to order head and cylinder gaskets from partzilla.https://www.ebay.com/itm/313513410016
I meant below the ports for the rings. Had the jug upside down on the desk! So the brake hone works.
Sure, these are going around the jug from the top. Only one spot above the ports can you feel the score with fingernail and it is barely perceptable. But below ports can really feel them, but if below rings should not matter and I would think once the rings get below the ports the blowby would be minimal?
On your brake hone issue. I just used it on my FZ50 cylinder. I was able to get the bottom of the small stones withing a 1/4" of the work table and not come out of the ports. I guess my question is how far the rings come down in the cylinder. Definitely not into the ports. So I think that is good enough coverage for the rings.
So I called one of those and they said minimum $150 due to setup and time.I took my hone after it and it cleaned up better than I thought.There is one gouge (catches my fingernail) that starts at about 1/2" from the top of the cylinder to about 1/4" above the port. There are a lot of gouges that start about 1/8" below the bottom of the ports and go down. Looks like the rings would b
Where would I get a jug machined in Detroit area?What do I look for as far as type of business?Any idea of what cost should be?Suzuki FZ50Thanks
thanks PD.Cylinder gouge is pretty deep but i have a brake cylinder hone and will try and get it out.My cylinder does not have that 3rd ring so that confused me.Need to figure out where/how much to machine jug here in Detroit area.
Also, when I look for replacement pistons with rings on ebay they show a third ring but there are only 2 openings in the piston. Where does this 3rd ring go?Here is an oversized kit with the 3rd ring. I could get my jug machined oversized and go with this? Seems like a more affordable way to go over the 45mm kit.
OK, the piston has a .5 mm deep gouge from bottom to lower piston ring with a bunch other less deep gouges around it. Cylinder also has gouges but not as deep.Looks like I need to replace the cylinder jug and piston.Should I look for used replacements or get the whole 60cc kit kit with all the bearings/seals and piston/ring/cylinder?There is a original jug for $95 on ebay but it is worn and exhau
What is the original main jet size in a FZ50 carb?In the service manual it says #57.5 which was in the carb I bought and rebuilt. Would not run. Everything is stock and compression is 90 psi.I have a 74 in it now and runs well.When I look around I find 77.5 is what should be OEM for the FA50 / FZ50.https://www.treatland.tv/OEM-suzuki-FA50-main-jet-77-5-p/suzuki-09491-77005.htmhttp://www.suzukicyc
thanks, think I will measure what I have and hone if possible and use stock rings. If I end up doing it! Depends on how it runs now that it is running!
Did you end up with 85-90 psi compression? Is that low? Mine is at 90 and am thinking about honing/new rings.
That clone carb is closer to the OEM one that I got for my FZ50. The bowl is much more squat than the clone carb I bought which I could not get to run right. Ended up buying a used OEM carb and rebuilt it.does the FA50 use that encapsulated nut on the carb flange? I had to cut mine off so I could use the original air filter bracket/housing.
thanks, I will make sure I try with throttle open.If I put on the 45mm kit are there any mods needed in the carb?
My FZ50 is showing 90 psi compression. Where can I find the specification for this? It is not in the service manuals. I think it is a bit low.I tried to find a new cylinder and they are unavailable. Where can I look? Ideas?Pistons/rings are available.
So I ended up finding the correct OEM in package choke plunder. Runs ok now BUT will start a new thread on other compression issue.
How did you search? I cannot find.
I have the original Mikuni carb and the cap that came with it off ebay. Sorry for the confusion. I took off a clone carb and matching cap.Anybody have a Mikuni on their moped that can measure the cap hex dimension?
The issue is the hex is getting down inside the opening and tearing up the metal. Hex is too small for this carb I believe.
Drew up the parts. Issue is that the hex on the top part really is too small for the machining in the carb and will deform the oring. AND will not really allow metal to metal contact / sealing. I think I am going to see if I can find a washer that fits over the threaded part.I think I may have the wrong part. The threads fit the original carb. The part that was used with the clone carbs has larger
Is your carb a Mikuni for an FZ50? I will explain in other post why I am asking. My FZ50 cap (the part that threads into the carb is different than yours.
The Oring! Not a good design though. It does not really have a good seating surface against the choke cap fitting. And it does not show up in the Suzuki breakdown.
Do you mean the rubber tube diameter should be skinnier?
this is a new part and is seating well. Lever on handlebars has full motion in both directions.I now have it starting and running. I put pipe dope tape on the threads on the choke fitting that is shown in the photo. Must not be the original part. The carb has a bevel for it to seat in but the fitting hex does not meet properly. Also may of had a vacuum leak at the main throttle cable large fitting
That's what I thought. But what keeps it from leaking air?basically a hex against the carb surface.
First thanks for all the help. This thing is so frustrating.I figured out that my issue is not fuel, I have a vacuum leak in / near my carb.Sprayed the top of the carb, cranked it over and started right up and kept running as long as I sprayed the top once in a while.Any hints on root causing?Here is how my choke cable is setup. Can someone tell me if this is correct. Does not seem right. The sche
There are pass thru holes through the choke/starter fuel pickup. This is above the fuel level in the float bowl. At least that is the way I believe it should be. Just want to make sure. From the VM manual the choke/starter system picks up both air and fuel with a cold engine instead of enriching the fuel by metering down air.Anyone know if the holes should be on top out of fuel? It seems to be the
I set the float as high as it would go. The hose is attached to the lower bowl "cleanout" and shows where the internal level is.