Results 1–30 of 68
Dang, wish you were closer, I’d snatch that fo sho!
Thanks Trudy! I’ve been the ‘victim’ of anonymous treat drops before, but mostly in my office, not Mayday style at my apartment 😂😂lol! You’re sweet, thanks
Jay- I’ll make you some! Custom designed or just like what you see here, I’m making a permanent mold for
Thank you Ryan, Wahhhh Covid took my job. After 8 years as Studio Manager of our local kickass art center, my position was eliminated, amongst others, because of emergency budget cuts. Sucks. I still will teach there though, metal casting, ceramics, and other fun stuff. At least I have time to do this now!
Out from the mold.. seee, you just need sand and a torch, and some other stuff you probably already have
I spent a dumb amount of time on it, but now I can take rubber molds and multiply and evolve shapes
I’m tired of the plastic heads always popping off of my side cover bolts. Sure, you can glue them back in just fine, but that’s just boring and I’m currently unemployed so I have some extra time lately. Sooo, I decided to make a head that wouldn’t come off, and maybe it’ll make me faster too. Made a sand mold of the original, and casted a more stockish looking pewter copy without the dumb flathead
I was also thinking if those Athena screws decide to back out at all they’ve go nowhere to go so they won’t end up in my intake!
Thanks for the validation—- wasn’t sure if I was wasting time. Though- the spacer is 1/2” tall, it might prove to be too tall and I’ll need to trim the depth. Anyway - does it look legit to you?
Yeah I thought it was strange- I had ordered the Tomos reed along w the kit. It definitely did not sit down, the reed guides hit the intake cast and it had about a 3/16” gap between the Mating surfaces. Sooo.. I figures there’s a mysterious spacer that I hadn’t run across yet to make it fit.I just got the Athena reed separately- looks like it would fit without the spacer. I haven’t pulled the cyli
I got it because the Tomos reed block metal reed guides are too deep to let it sit down flush on the intake. What would be another option?
I after reading about alternate reed blocks, I bought the Tomos two petal reeds, and the Athena reed block. I also ordered the MLM reed spacer from Treats- Nice to start with, except one of the mounting holes is about 1mm off, so needed to be corrected.I used the gasket to guide and dremeled out about 2.5mm around the opening to make room for the reeds, giving them 1.5mm+ clearance from the corne
Thanks Graham, I’ve learned quite a bit following your posts, as well as the other gurus such as Ken and Jbot (who I finally accepted was the actual real Jbot and now am in total awe). I’ve blown a pretty load on the ped this summer, just pulled the trigger on the polini and super stuffed crank (plus some gearing to play with later) 5 mins ago. I’ll have to recover and down the line I can look to
Thanks y'all, I appreciate the encouragement. I think I'll jump in the ring with the Polini! The Metrakit 65 does look promising, but if I'm spending the same amount of money, I'd like to be done (says my accountant brain). I've been drooling over the Polini for months since I realized my hi torque head fit it specifically. Should I also immediately look at a cooler spark
Ahh, the magic of the search feature - that kit is not included in the primary scroll down list! This looks great, but still about as expensive as the Polini when you include the head. Is there another option besides these two?:
The Alu Metrakit? Looking on Treats the only available Metrakits are 50 and 65 (cylinder only) that cost more than the Polini....and they have the angled exhaust port so I'd need a different pipe right away.. that then wouldn't go on the Polini... right? I see you could opt to not casematch, or just do it mildly.. is this it?:
After rebuilding/upgrading my Newport this spring and getting it tuned and happy, I'm ready to step into a kit.I feel confident skill-wise and have the tools to casematch/port a new kit. I regularly work with metal casting and finishing, so that's not a problem. There's a lot of good info on case matching, and I am doing all the research here and elsewhere I can before making a dec
I will get a better speedometer now, it’s time.
It could have been a downhill moment, but really- we don’t actually have meaningful hills in Fargo, just slight inclines or declining roads. I had to be going pretty fn fast in the first place, no?
Previous to to today, ‘max speed’ recorded was at about 34.8.
Promise I don’t walk that fast and didn’t get in a car recently. I’m kinda weirded out
F, how do I do it- these buttons are weird. I kinda don’t believe it myself but I’ve been recording my speed w this gps app that seems pretty legit. I took a screenshot and it shows ‘max speed’ plus I have a gps log of 20 mins of travel...
It’s still a stock 2hp hi torque maxi w just a bing 15 clone and a proma gp pipe.... guess I got it tuned in ok 👍. 45mph according to gps... dang
Holy shiiiiit!I hit 45mph today. 77 jet, 4th ring in the needle, cranked the ESO clutch in to 2 turns from flush... no fish scale but I’ll do that next so I know what the f I’m doing. Whaaaat?
I am so glad to finally find this article in 2020. Thanks y’all!!!!
But all they are is a throat right? With a jet at the bottom affected by Venturi laws. Alloys really don’t matter here unless they fail.. we plug our gaps with gaskets so that’s not an actual issue.
I just don’t understand how you’d ever get anywhere beyond that without a bit o dremel work... it seems like they would’ve planned for that. I’ve got a super clean original stator plate and all the fixins. Really nice.. but- why is full retard just barely beyond stock setting? Dunno. No matter, I’m happy.
I spent $30 at Harbor Freight + $10 for the dumb 12v battery I’ll use once or twice. But- totally worth it.