Results 1–30 of 158
very nice. If you don't feel like buying a piston stop I'd recommend using a long reach spark plug instead of the rope trick. Cheap and works great.
Holy shit, very impressive. All I did was slap on the reed kit, Estoril pipe, VM 20, 2 petal Polini. I'm sure yours is way faster though! Did you use the wrist pin circlips that came with the kit? I ruined my first Treats reed kit because one of the nubs on the circlips broke off while I was riding and smeared the cylinder walls :(
Got my Maxi for $30 bucks and it has snowflakes! Was seized and needed new tubes are tires. Took the intake and carb off and it un-seized itself.
why not just run a hi comp head instead of hi hi? .45 mm base gasket will give you a squish of about 1.2 mm, which is excellent. My other advice would be to get better wrist pin circlips. I destroyed that exact kit this year because one of the nubs on the circlips broke off while I was riding and gouged the fuck out of my cylinder wall.That kit has great acceleration and will pair nicely with your
My only advice with the Treats Reed kit is to order some better wrist pin circlips. One of the little nubs broke off one of the circlips and completely destroyed my cylinder. Ohhh it was a sad day.
I just park my bike next to my car and hook the timing light up to the battery in my car. I just have to park the car in the garage and make sure all the lights are off because the $20 timing light at harbor freight is hard to see in day light. Hope this helps.
Main 150-170. I use 22.5 idle. Many people actually use 25 idle.http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/carbtune/carbtune.htm#adj%20location
My circlips were the ones that had the two tangs on them. One of the tangs snapped off. The circlip didn't come out of the groove.
Treats reed kit just got toasted by circlip. I'm not very good at moped.
I was thinking we may have different versions of the kit. with a .45mm base gasket, my squish would be well over 1.2mm
the picture with the head off is using a base gasket that is .15 mm thick. I originally had a .45 mm base gasket which would have caused the cylinder to be about 1.2 mm in the cylinder.I will measure the squish tonight with some plumbers putty and I'll also take a picture of the cylinder at BTC and post that.Thanks again.
I don't believe this is a timing or jetting issue. I have tried all main jets from 150-180. Runs best at 165. Top speed is exactly the same with my Proma and the sidebleed estoril. The end bleed bolts seem to have no affect on my set up. Should I just be happy with a moped that cruises at 43 MPH? Other than top speed, the moped runs great.My father in-law runs Maine Machine and would do any
Brian, here is what my piston looks like at TDC. Using a depth gauge on a nice set of calipers, I measured that the piston sits .9mm into the cylinder. This is with a .15 mm base gasket. It's possible we have a different mild of the treats reed kit.
I'm an idiot because I gave him great advice? A piston stop is a WASTE OF MONEY. A few days ago you were asking help on how to tune a Puch two shoe clutch, which is literally the easiest thing in the world and you also admitted to fucking up your new crank. I can guarantee you have never actually timed your puch. Now you're a fucking Puch master all the sudden. Stop being a dick and sto
I recommend just buying a long reach spark plug instead of a piston stop. Probably will save you 10 bucks. I think i used one from my ATV.
I love your Maxi N Maize. Very talented racer as well. Is that a polini cylinder? You seem to have great acceleration vs your opponents.
2t noob, I know you mean well but you probably shouldn't be giving out advice.
with a 50cc kit on a single speed puch you are never going to have good acceleration especially with the gearing that you have. get any 70cc kit and you will be amazed at how much low end you gain.I had a 50cc kit that did about 43 MPH with a Proma and 15mm carb, but the low end was dog shit. My gearing was also lower at 16x45
I did change my point gap to .017 and I found TDC exactly as you described using a long reach spark plug. I taped down a paper metric ruler with the 0 lined up exactly at TDC. Made it very easy to see exactly where it was firing.I really just need to check my squish like Brian suggests. I'll return one of my timing lights and get some calipers. I Most likely have to big of squish band. I boug
I went ahead and purchased a different timing light and my timing is definitely set to 14° BTDC. My stator slots have not been dremeled. Is it possible that I could be losing performance due to old points? Or could old points be giving me false timing results? Sorry for continuing to post, I am just at a loss and I don't want to keep purchasing things I don't have to.
There is a lot to do in Maine. That being said, Bangor is pretty far north. Its mile 181 on 95. I went to school at University of Maine in Orono, which is right next door to Bangor. get a hold of me and I can let you know some sweet spots around the Bangor area.
My problem with timing may actually be from my timing light. It is a model where you can set the number of degrees advanced with a dial on the back.http://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html#With the dial set to 0° I will show that I am firing 14° BTDC. When I set the dial to 14°, it will show me still running about 6°-7° advanced.My stator slots have not been dremeled so I
I honestly have not tried the different end bleed bolts. Once I get it running correctly I will mess with those and report back.
I have a 8 week old baby at home so I don't want to spend 280 on an exhaust just yet. I'll probably pick one up with tax return money and build it up over the long Maine winter. I do not have any calipers or thick solder but I will find a video on how to measure squish and report back.
You're the man. If you ever come to Maine, or if I ever go down to NH, MA for a rally. I owe you some beers.
Thank you guys again for taking time to try and help me out. I really appreciate it.I will re-check my timing tonight and try to post a video of how I am doing it. My points are not new so I was thinking I could try .017 inch point gap instead of the .014 I am currently at. Just to clarify I am doing this in the right order.1.Find TDC2. Set point gap at TDC3.Set timing to 14 millimeters to the rig
I'd like to add that I did not create that video. Someone much handier than me did.
Brian, Thank you for your reply. if you skip to 6:30 in this video you will see what I am seeing when I rev it up. Maybe its not advancing but is just an illusion? I have not measured my squish band.Have you done any porting? I didn't even case match because the transfers match almost perfectly.Could my needle jet size affect top speed? Thank you again kind sir.
Current set up: Rebuilt E50, 70cc Treats reed kit, thick base gasket, 70cc high comp head, Estoril side bleed/end bleed, Polini 2 pedal reeds, VM20 (160 main, 17.5 idle), 18x45 gearing. Point gap set to .014 inches.Top speed of 43-45 MPH with very good take off and mid-range. My timing is around 14mm BTDC at idle and will get up to around 17-18 verified by harbor freight timing light. Highest temp
70 kit should be around a 75 jet in a 15SHA. I don't understand how a bigger jet would make it stop after a short run as it doesn't affect idling at all.I used this reference to tune my Mikuni VM20, although I will admit it ran almost perfect before I even jetted it.http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/carbtune/carbtune.htm#adj%20location