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I'd really like to sell everything in one go so it's all gone. If I part these bikes out I would end up with random parts and couldn't use and nobody would want and would end up throwing them away and I don't want to do that. The price is OBO and I'm up for offers. Text is best and quickest form of teaching me thanks!
For sale are two 1978 honda hobbits.Both not running but can be put back to running order with the parts I have. I bought a Harley and now selling all my moped stuff. I have over 3000$ in all these goodies:RARE trick metric reed plate adapter and 24mm dio intake kit.Mikuni 24mm carbHPI mini rotor ignition newTJT variator and ramp plateMalossi 70cc water cooled kit needs new piston I broke the Ring
Selling my build lost hope on it. Grab these parts cheap while they lastWanting to sell this together if possibleMalossi 70cc water cooled head and jugPolini water pump kitMishimoto RAdatiorAll for $275 OBO to your door.Over $450 worth of parts.Text or call at 864-630-2715. Thanks I can text more pics to inteested people thanksPayPal preferred
Found another reason why it was running like shit. The inner magneto part of the mini rotor came loose and slide out toward the stator plate. Running it to all hell and jumping timing by about 2 inches. So waiting to hears what's up with the warranty cause I've only got 2 hrs on the setup and right now what a waste of 350$.
Crazy Wayne™ Rocks, LA french suck Wrote:-------------------------------------------------------> http://i.imgur.com/9Ee21xJ.gif> http://library.iem.ac.ru/exper/v8_1/images/Image2.> gif> http://dc408.4shared.com/doc/YhkUE8Qc/preview_html> _m791c938.gif> http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/attachment.> php?attachmentid=4515&d=1337124211Lemme guess... you're #MopedJe
So all I found was a chart that summarized the ring gaps for different size bores with a formula. Is this correct or is there a certain ring gap for each ring? My piston has 2 rings. I understand the top ring gap is less but just wanting an exact number to make sure engine runs top notch. Thanks
So where exactly is this rear fender ground?Maybe someone could just give me a call and explain over the phone better. I've tried everything and getting flustered.864-630-2715 if anybody wants to call and lend some over the phone advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure it's something small and I'm just overlooking
I checked the connection of the 3 wires in the taillight and they were loose so I got excited. It was a pain in the butt,,,, but I got them securely in place and still the same result.The resistor looks fine and the solder looks good. I'm gonna try and bypass it later today just to make sure.
Ok sounds good, I'll do some more searching in the WIKI and the web. I just want to make sure everything is on point this time around since that kit was almost 300$. Thanks for the help guys
Ok,,, so it would rev out to like 6500 on the stand but it was like hitting a dead spot when it got there. On the road while riding it wouldn't go past 6500 either. Checked the variator belt and weights and everything looked normal.Prior to this it has seen 9500 RPMS...By the way what's a safe RPM FOR HOBBITS??? :)))Took engine apart1) piston bad scraps on upper and lower part of piston
Ok the blue wire from the stator has no power until I hit the brake. Is that normal?
It's doesn't rev well at all like it used to. Like the bike is struggling (lack if compression)
Ok so in the rear I have(Brown) ground wire(Green) power for rear running light(Grey) power for stop lightTaillight wires were poorly connected so I thought that was the problem but it wasn't. Still cuts off when I apply the brakes.I'm using a test light grounded and when I hit the brakes the grey wire has power. Really bright power compared to the (green) running light wire.When I hit t
Haven't tried the ground overlays but it idles even when I stop the back tire from spinning. It drives fine it's just when you brake it cuts off.I tried disconnection the pigtails to the turn signals and rear lights and it still cuts off. So does that mean it's a wire from the stator to the front switches?
I'm also using a AEM wideband to dial in the carb. It idles at 13.8 airfuel ratio which is rich, should idle around 14.5-14.9. When it idles it smokes pretty good. It used to not smoke like this that's why I'm thinking the ring is shot. At WOT from a stop it reads anywhere from 11.8- 12.8. You want it to be around 12.5 for peak power and gas mpg. It just doesn't pull like it u
Ok thanks for the info guys, I'll check the weights. It just feels dead. How come everywhere I read said to put at 3mm BTDC??? Even the instructions in the box. Even when I move timing closer to TDC it still runs the same. I think the ring is shot. Gonna check today
I never changed the variator weights since putting on the TJT and it would rev to 8500 and pulled like crazy. I have 3 blues and 3 yellows that came with the kit
Setup70cc Dr kitWeekends pipeDio intake and reeds (until I can get vforce)Trickmetric spacerHPI Mini rotorTJT variatorBx40 beltB8hs plug gapped at .28-.30So the bike ran decent before the ignition and carb upgrade. Would hit around 48mph and top speed downhill was 52mph.So I installed 1 thing at a time, first was the HPI mini rotor set at 3mm before TDC. Ran pretty good and had a better pull. Ran
Bump for more info please. I still haven't figured it out
Correction,,, all lights now work, headlight, rear running light, and brake light. Still when I hit the brakes either front or rear the bike kills like a kill switch. I'm stumped.
Was running good and now if you hit either brake it kills the engine. I've stripped the whole harness and haven't found anything. The headlight works but the rear running light isn't working but the brake light will work, but it also kills the engine when you hit the brakes? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also this is the silver bullet model with turn signals if that helps.
I don't tune my oeds off heat range, yes it is in mind but I dial in my carbs with a AEM wideband. Getting the air fuels at WOT between 12.5 - 13.5. My guess would be that if he has a 70 cc piston kit that his air fuel ratios would be lean with a jet size of 70, but I'm not there and he doesn't have a wideband to check his air fuels that I'm aware of.
I can go ahead and tell you from the start a 70 jet is way to small if it's a 70 cc. Friend of mine had a 92 jet on his express with a 12mm carb and sift seized it numerous times before I had the wide and to dial it in. With a 15mm carb I would say at least a 90 to 100 jet. His wasn't water cooled and didn't have a temp sensor either but I guarantee his was about 450 degrees. Even i
I've thought about getting a bung welded closer to the cylinder. From seeing the folks at AEM install a wideband on a ruckus they recommend to install 11 to 18 inches from the exhaust port. I'm not sure how much the readings will change. Plus I didn't want to have an ugly plug in my minty biTurbo or my weak-ends exhaust.
Yeah I thought about running a boost bottle now that it's tuned to see if the airfuel ratios change and record where they help or hurt. This wideband would definitely see a change if there is any. I'm planning on removing the oil feed off my tomos soon and remixing my gas. So I can use the port on the intake for the boost bottle. Also I might have to slightly adjust the tune because not
So since breaking my knee on my hobbit a month ago I've sat and researched a million things. One was how to dial in a carb with exhaust readings. I've had 4 cars dyno tuned and thought hey I could do that with my peds. So I spent 180$ on the AEM wideband. Had a short 6x1 inch pipe with bung welded for sensor. Installed a lawn mower battery to the back and ta da it works. Ghetto zip tied
PROBLEM FIXED. The switch was bad and still is. If I press down hard when switching to the right it works properly. If I just switch it over the heaights flicker so in gonna take the switch apart and try to fix it
Last thing. Where should my grounds be placed? I only see 2 grounds, 2 brown wires and they are on the bottom of the ignition coil? Is this where they should be or were they misplaced before I bought this thing?
Tried running a single ground to front right turn signal. Nothing. For some reason when the lights are on, high or low beam with no turn signals on the ground wire on the back of the headlight has power. I'm using a test light to check cause I don't have a volt meter. I know for sure it shouldn't have power but I've stripped every wire on the whole harness which I hated to do b