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bah reviving old threadanyone know if justhitchit is still business?webpage seems dead.other options for a class 1 ped carrier?
Hi,I am in need of another pa50ii engine case, cleanliness doesn't matter, just prefer no cracks if possible.Mainly looking for the 2 halves, don't need the crank or anything but if you can't get it out (The crank and other seals), ill consider taking the whole thing.PM me.
gorgeous, i'd take it in a second but shipping would be huge to me (Canada). The moped groups in my city have bought everything from Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Western Ontario, Minnesota and North Dakota... so they've cornered the market on them and are charging a fortune for stock ones. They are sitting on about 50-60 hobbits and won't let them go, holding them hostage.
Thanks Aaron,I have the bearing, so i have clutch then, and it makes way more sense now, doscycles actually outlines the difference on the product page whereas treats is a little more vague.That answers my 'which do i have' question, thank you so much!
Thanks Aaron,Well, it definitely idles and doesnt stall, so that must mean there's a clutch, that helps me int eh right direction anyway. I'll check that vari.
I snagged a good deal on a moby off someone.It was a project they were working on.I do have a question though, as i cannot get ahold of the original owner. Its running an AV7 with the stock pully. It has an ER3 on it (cardboard trick hurrah) but i can't tell if its the one with or without clutch version. I am going to assume without, as the clutch is in the pully right?I'm a hobbit guy (
Thanks john, i had already checked those prior, sadly not what i was looking for, but thank you very much for posting, means a lot.
thanks guys, yeah i found the brake rod on dos, thats great.
I have a 80 sachs seville with a 505-1D, looking for some things.1) I'd love a damn shop manual for this thing (not the parts list).2) Original Gas Tank Cap3) Rear brake rod (and whatever comes along with it)4) Original style Tail light (i can get something new from treatz as these are usually damaged)5) rear rack6) condensor (or if you can recommend a new replacement)7) fork lock with key (h
UPDATE - i reached out to treatz, Dana said they are going to order some in as it has been quite some time since they stocked them.. and to watch for them on the site (in case anyone else needs).
@graham, good idea, ill do that thanks. If no go, i'd love to get some from you if you choose to make them again.@Toledo, i found a swedish site that has them but they wont ship to north america. (5 euros per 'set'.... so like 15 euros for all), too bad though. I'll keep looking and let you know if i find.@blake, yeah 6 total of the rubber things.. i dont need the metal pins a
These seems to be harder to find than i thought.I need (i think 6) Sachs Engine mounting rubber bushings... tall order for ones in good condition used, but i can't find them 'new' anywhere (if you know please tell me).
I have to do the cardboard trick as well, its stupid and annoying especially if you stall at a red light.I've tried thicker belts but still no joy... i would love a permanent fix for the cardboard trick... sigh.
good feedback. thanks man
wow seriously, no one is running a setup like this and has run into this? I find that hard to believe.
I work mainly on hobbits, i dont have much experience with Moby's.My friend has one and after some aftermarket upgrades (not done by him but by the person he bought it from).. he has to put a piece of cardboard in the clutch to shim it so there is enough drag to start the bike.Rebel Moby said this is quite common in this setup.I was wondering what solutions there are as it can be a pain in th
i figured as much and didnt really think that was the problem anyway.
hey marc, bingo bango dodge durango... ill give that a try even though i've already rewired (As per below) and got it working in a janky way.i've actually rewired the entire thing, and what the culprit looks like was the harness in the left handle (stock)... it just couldn't take the 12V for whatever reason (possibly damaged who knows).yellow from the hpi cdi goes to trail-tech dial
so switches appear to be an issue, you can't use 12V systems with stock honda brake levers? odd, but maybe that is the case.i luckily have a rear brake line with a built in switch, but its been disconnected this whole time as it wasnt needed. this might save me from swapping brake levers.. but the wires off of it are green and white. Just not sure where to wire these inline. anyone have exper
someone said you have to upgrade the switches in the brake lever to 12v switches? (stock handles and stuff) .. is that true?
Hi Everyone, im at the end of my rope on troubleshooting. I've upgraded my hobbit to HPI CDI 12V, amazing love it.... but because of that i've converted the headlamp to 12V, and the back taillight and brakelights to 12V. The only thing not 12V right now is the horn.Everything works great, all running lights and headlamp work.... all except the damn brake lights.Before changing over the C
yup thanksthats what i figured.thumbs up.
im sure there's a million threads on this, but the search system is terrible.honda hobbit/pa50iiHPI CDI externalI know i have to get the 12v conversion for the front lamp, question is regarding rear brake/light.I want to keep the STOCK taillight housing and such... which BULB on treats is the one(s) i should go with that will fit the stock housing?Thanks
like, the stock pa50 gas cap with the rubber measuring thing built in?i have a few as i changed over to lock gas caps with a key.
or if you dont have one for sale.what would be the proper replacement on treats? seems to be an odd OD (50mm)
Oops forgot to mention were also looking as carbon fiber options as well.
Myself and another are currently working on 3D printing hobbit headlights and the front bezel of the headlight, As these always break for everyone and treatz never has them in stock.We may be mass printing and selling them if it works and the price is reasonable.We're finishing up on the cad design for the printer and are just figuring out a few nuances that the 3d printer can't handle w
recommend this pipe 100%... its fabulousThanks Ryan!!!Running it on a hobbit with DR kit.had a few small issues mounting but nothing that can't be done quick. The shock mount hole on the baffle was about 1/4 inch too high, but that could be due to a tiny bend in the frame or head somewhere... either way a quick dremel job resolved. Ill post pics when i can.Pipe sounds greatGreat qualityAdded
Working on a new project bike and had a proma (used) that is completely clogged and clearly needs to be cleaned/replaced.DR Kit, VM20, Boyeson Dual Stage, Trick6 Vari, stock timing. Pretty much like my other hobbits but they all run promas.I'd like a side bleed exhaust (for the look) but i know (or have read) that the proma has better low-mid range, whereas something like the MLM Peoples has