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Hello, been awhile since I've been here but looking at this post, it appears that you have missed something...The Express WILL run without the attery... BUT where the battery connects (4 wire connector) there is a manual connection you must make to complete the coil signal. 2 of the 4 wires are black with a white tracer. These two must be jumped together to make the coil fire.Battery connecto
*Modifying a Honda NC50 Express/Express II to Rope Start**Disclaimer: This tutorial is to fabricate a working idea. Although it has been reproduced by myself and others, there is no guarantee or warranty of fitness for use and safety. Use of the information in this tutorial is at the user’s own risk and I will not be held responsible for injury or death (in the highly unlikely case of) i
Usually that is a sign of cruddy gas in the carb.. (at least on mine) Drain the carb using the drain screw and see what the gas coming out looks like... When you had the tank emptied to clean the petcock, some rust could have built up in there and found it's way into the carb. Not 100% sure if that is the cause and solution, but it has happened to me before...
Correct! that's why i specified single and dual elements."Please read your owners manual thouroughly. Your mileage may vary." =P
I've seen people looking for those 6v bulbs and have resorted to paying $3 for a turn signal bulb and $4 for a taillight bulb... Well, go to your local autozone or advance auto etc and look for Sylvania 1129 for turn signal (single element) and Sylvania 1154 for tail lights (dual element). Get 2 bulbs for what your dealer will charge you for one of the same bulb.I'm a wealth of useless k
My profile shows an NU? Should be an Nc... anywho, the conversion isn't too tough... But I will try to get some pics for you guys. The conversion itself is a matter of 5 minutes if your L case is intact with maybe 20 - 30 mins of prep work. Prep may be as much as 3 hours if you want it to look great =)
Both of the Expresses I have are Express 1's as far as I can tell... Hope the '78 I'm rebuilding will haul like the '80 =). The '78 will be a rope start... can't find the parts i need for the winder, so I'm gunna plug it off and fill it up wit oil. I did this for a friend of mine on 3 of the '78's he aquired and it works great!
Hey 50plus... how many miles you got on that thing? Mine revs out at about 33 MPH with just over 4k miles on it... but on the other hand, i weigh 150 so that may be it...
"Coils For N00bs"The Coil is what sends the spark through the spark plug.The coil is attached to your spark plug wire. It is also attached to your points and a condensor (if your bike requires them). They will for the most part be different from manufacturer to manufacturer, but may be the same for different bikes in the same manufacturer's lines.I woke up too early this mornin... h
Also, make sure that when you look in there, that the throttle valve ("slide") is in the right way. The curved cut out looking side should be facing you when looking into it. Also, check your choke valve. Your choke may be stuck open for some strange, godawful reason =P.
That's the beauty of these 2-stroke carbs, there isn't alot to them, so the above should fix a fuel leaking problem.
Iv'e had the float in mine actually fill up with gas and therfore wouldn't float. I wound up with the problem you have now.You have changed out the float... did you remember to re-install the needle valve? If so when you pull it apart, check the rubber tip of the needle valve and make sure it looks pointed. Also check to see if it is still soft. A hard tip on the valve might not allow a
OK, there are two little "tangs" on the sides. You will have to push those in and slide the guts out. I did this using a small eyeglass screwdriver. Just be careful that you don't lose any parts when you slide the guts out. I spent 25 minutes looking for a peice that went flying because of the spring in the thing =P.BTW, you can get the switch and wiring at partsfish for about $12 i
The the wires to the brake switches on my '80 are soldered in, as should yours be.To remove the switch from the brake lever, remove the screw at the lever's pivot point and remove the lever. The switch itself should slide out now that the lever isn't in the way.The switch itself comprises of 2 copper contact leaves, a piston, a spring and a retainer. The wires should be soldered to
Do you need the entire tranny re-assembled? Or just the front half (the wind up part)? I could draw one up, as I have one apart at the moment.
The fill plug is on the front of the engine. Looking from the front of the bike, it will be on the right side, behind the foot pegs. A clip that holds the drain hose for the carburetor is also attached to this plug on mine, so look for that. =)