Results 1–30 of 39
ok so my cheek is moving beautifully, the only way I see myself getting the clutch off though is with this puller http://www.treatland.tv/vespa-piaggio-flywheel-puller-p/vespa-flywheel-puller.htm any other ideas?and as for ignitions as of the moment i'm looking at----http://www.treatland.tv/HPI-CDI-mini-rotor-ignition-system-for-mbk-p/red-mbk-hpi-cdi-90.htm----http://www.treatland.tv/motobeca
good idea, I just jacked off the clutch nut and tried to check out the shoe's n springs but I couldn't get it off - gonna order a puller to take a look n go from thereonce I jacked the clutch back the bike was running for a bit which was a big improvement so I think you hit the nail with the clutch - all I think it needs is some oil to get going but yeah worse case a broken shoe (I'
http://www.1977mopeds.com/Motobecane-AV7-AV10-HPI-Mini-Rotor-CDI-Ignition-p/70363.htmIs this what your thinking? ^
my replacement puch ignition system just wont work on the torrot casethe rotation direction of the flywheel actually matters whoops - I'm going to try a motobecane ignition system (http://www.treatland.tv/motobecane-CDI-p/motobecane-cdi-ignition.htm) nextwith the original points set up anyone of the components could have been the problem, so too much trouble shooting for meif the motobecane s
How will I know where to make the index marks? As of the moment I don't have any markings. I have found BTDC._____________Side note, what replacement points and femsa ignition box would you recommend for the OEM set up?
okay so the cabling is going out the bottom left and the magneto is spinning freely and securely... what seems to be the problem now is the positioning of the magneto... I've tried a few guides and have gotten more combustion at certain positions but nothing good enough to get the bike goingspark is therecompression is therefuel is thereas for the timing I don't knowany suggestions?Chris
thankfully the magneto stays nice and tight without the ruff key, ill check out the positioning laterI may just have a bike on my hands
alright awesome, thank you
k ill knock the woodruff key, thanks for clarifying, and as for the stator plate I'm not sure if it's on correct. how do I tell?
I just put it on/aligned the crank's tab with the magneto tab slit.. I can't put the magneto in any other position from what I can tell because the crank shaft and magneto always marry at the same spot
so I removed the housing, ran the cdi, and wahhbam continuous spark with no magneto stalls, but when I tried to get it going... nothing... anyways I'm damn sure it's the CDI timing (which I don't think I can change) and seeing as I couldn't get the points system to go either I think I need a pro... do you know of anyone in Mississauga?I'm so cloooseeeI'm also thinking
Ok so naked it is... not running right now but ill check the spark and timing tomorrow... if there is spark and the timing isn't right then I know the CDI unit just won't work right?
good idea, ill try it out
So I have the original points system minus some electrical wires, what happened was something wasn't working properly to begin with so I swapped out a few parts on the points system and couldn't get a consistent spark, I then noticed the rubbing block wasn't touching the shaft enough to open the points even after adjustments (it was worn) I then looked into finding new a new block/
if you know of a points system I can use I'd be happy to know about it... I just looked at the femsa flywheel and began to wish I hadn't let it goI've been scared of the point's system but if you could point me in the right direction i could give it another shot
I had trouble with my points at the very start, eventually found out the rubbing block wouldn't rub right, even after some tinkering, just didn't seem reliable. That then got me thinking about points maintenance down the road and thus CDI as a hassle free alternative (at least so I hope).The time I got the bike going a while back was on a cdi system I installed. I never get it going with
CDI ProblemsBasically I need a new cdi that is compatible with my 76 Turismo.Any suggestions?Benji over at treatland came across this one http://www.treatland.tv/motobecane-CDI-p/motobecane-cdi-ignition.htmBut I can't help but think the flywheel will be too big for the housing... do I remove the housing... and fit it on there? Not sure what to do.Need some help with this.Chris
Just a suggestion. When taking it apart place all the bolts, screws, and parts in labelled containers. That way when you go to rebuild it you know exactly what each part is for.
I just started learning about CDI's so I don't know much. But my bet would be either the hall sensor or the high tension coil. It could even be the wiring...1. Have you double checked to make sure the hall sensor is properly connected to the high tension coil?2. Also, have you checked your grounding wires?It sometimes is the simplest things that cause the biggest headaches.My suggestion
Awesome. Thanks for the advice. I ended up getting five m7x25mm bolts with hex heads. They fit perfectly. Unfortunately the right bolt holes threading isn't right so its not super snug. Ill see about doing what you suggested above, going to have to read it over a few times to let it sink in.I am now having fuel issues. Seems like the carburetor is running high. I have been adjusting the idle.
Thanks daniel! They look real similar, ill visit some shops tomorrow and see what I can find.
I don't know much but here are my thoughts. It should at least fire a couple of times while turning it over if you have a proper spark, compression, and fuel/air mix. Seeing as you haven't adjusted the ignition system or carb my guess would be compression. Have you done any sort of compression check? A common one is putting your thumb in the spark plug hole and getting someone to pedal o
So i got the Torrot going. Woohooo! I tried trouble shooting the original ignition system for about 2 weeks. Eventually I gave in after not being able to get it going and ordered a new system; this one exactly... http://www.1977mopeds.com/puch-cdi-unit-of-the-stars-e50-setup.html. I had to do grind down the rivets on the inside of flywheel/stator plate case in order to fit the larger flywheel and
My moped has a similar set up. Do you (or anyone else out there) know how to separate the pedal from the sprocket and then attach a new pedal arm?Thanks in advance for any help!
Here is what I have checked/cleaned/repaired so far...•Rebuilt & cleaned the carburetor (there was a bunch of gunk)•Sealed the gas tank & fuel line (it had a lot of rust)•Repaired the stator plate (rubbing block was not in the appropriate place)•Changed the tire tubes (both didn't hold air for long periods of time)•Cleaned/checked drum brakes (seem to be in good condition)•Cleaned out
This is good to know. Thanks. Just checked the cheek, it is moving freely back and forth on the shaft. As for the bolt protrusions they don't have any rubber protecting them, ill take you up on your fuel line suggestion.
I have added the flywheel puller information to the flywheel puller wiki. Here is the link: http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Flywheel_puller
Whoops I saw this too late. I ended up ordering a 20mm which was too small but then ordered a 22mm which fit perfectly (ill add this to the flywheel puller wiki).I am currently working on the ignition system. Turns out the rubbing block attached to the point was not touching the cam resulting in a closed point. I am making the necessary adjustments now and cleaning the ignition system out. This wi