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What does that mean?? Let me explain: these mopeds are unplated and being driven by unlicensed people who have no desire to be on any known legal tally. My assumption is that in the Midwest (at last I checked that’s Ohio etc) completely unplated moped riders with no license of any kind are not the norm! Please correct me if I’m wrong. But if ya want to get your feathers all in a rustle over this
Yup and how many on moped army visualize themselves as “outlaws”. Now we can see some real outlaws. This ain’t Ohio mopeders!! Welcome to the big apple.
I find the article ironic. The cheap Chinese e bike batteries are causing mayhem in NYC to the point that serious effortsAre underway to ban them. Several buildings have caught on fire. So now gasoline powered “mopeds” which I assume are cheap four strokers, are now being substituted. I’m actually going to visit my daughter there in two weeks. My guess is that two strokers are still going to be
Please snap a picture when you take the head off with the piston at bottom dead center. Show us where the top of the piston is bs AB’s the transfers and the intake. The top of the piston needs to be below the bottom of the transfers. If above then you need a mlm plate metal base plate to raise the jug.
I’ve got great mopeds ready to ride in davis ca. I’ll be happy to sell you one. Registered plated. Pm me
Yikes now I feel super guilty not calling you before you went at the seals. Basically a leak down is in order before tearing down the case on a suspicion. But if you got the crank seal partially out or totally then after you get a new one in seeing all the trouble you got your hand in, a leak down is in order.What method were you using to get the seal out of an intact case ? I usually drive a scr
So take carb off yet again and please tell us what size main jet is installed. I’ll try to watch the videos later when I get a chance. If you have a stock pipe not a circuit etc type pipe and if this grande is a 25 mph model or even 30Mph order a 56 size main jet and try that. I have a grande and a bravo and have completely rebuilt both so yes I can spend some time with you attempting to help. Pm
Yes it’s got 2023 value not 1987
There’s 70 cc and there’s 70cc. The stiffer the reeds the tighter the build needs to be. I would start with the fiber boyesen reeds two stage and see how easy it is to start and if you are getting it up the pipe in a acceptable manner to where you are wanting to be. The 3 mm fiber ones should be the easiest to deal with. If you have a build of the highest quality then after the fiber try the carbo
Your student is obviously ambivalent about the theft. And the ambivalence has morphed into him precipitating a giganticFlare up and scene by informing you where he knows it is. That’s unacceptable!! If you really want the bike back now ya gotta go against the grain of a neighborhood that obviously condones petty crime ( by their definition but in actually it’s grand theft by value. ) even calling
With all the original plastics don’t listen to that $350 or so is what it’s worth. $1200 minimum even if not running. A non rusty grande with everything is super rare. If I was still in the acquisition mode I would grab it. Anybody wanting a grande who actually has a bank account should grab this if it’s as good as claimed.
I’ll have to take another quick look behind my carb. I’ve actually redid the oil port and tubing a pretty long time ago when I was working on my carb. I decided to keepIt as it was working well. Yes I am aware of issues of catastrophic failure. Sometimes I add a bit of premix. It’s tuned pretty well and I don’t ride it much so….but if I decide to ride the landsquid ride I might use it because it’s
Don’t ditch the OEM stuff. Clean it. Question is whether you have functioning oil injection or not.
Jailing stator ? Ie what is the “cdi” triggered by?
I’ve got one for sale : it comes with my grande for $3500.
I’ve never had an aftermarket hobbit cdi match up to the woodruff key. Let me remember how to do it.1. It sounds like you can get the engine to run clockwise ? Ok2. Make a black sharpie radially anywhere ya want but 12:00Sounds fine to me.3. Using aTime ing light find the spot on the case that matches the black flywheel line and mark that.4 using whatever you use to measure from tdc figure out if
For OEM. You’ve said your carb is not OEM. If ya want OEM use the buy/wanted tab.
Wow. Treatland doesn’t really have an OEM carb. All the replacements require a switch from a butterfly valve to a guillitine type valve with means major effort to reroute the throttle wire seeing a sha or vm 18 needs to have way more room on top. If it were me I would search for the OEM keihin or be prepared to figure out how a sha type works. The first review of the clone says it doesn’t match up
Expresses come with oil injection. Was it deleted by the previous owner?? Correctly?? Aftermarket Chinese clone crap is iffy at best. I would buy OEM stuff.
Does the crank have too much play ?? If so add a 30Gm weight to the hpi mini. The mismatch of weight on opposite side of the crank shaft prematurely wears out the bearing on that side. There is a 4 bearing mod out there that is a fix for that. I only have one e 50But that happened to meAfter short time. Very very very short.
If absolutely stock 75 then. If you manage to get it running well and you put on a performance pipe then you up jet. How far ? If I were to guess maybe to a 78 or 80. That’s something that requires experimentation. First always start stock. That has to work well then and only then can you go slowly crazy.
Well first you need to figure out what is a stock express jet on a keihin. Research that or ask a question on the general section. Get that and a couple of sizes a bit larger I would assume.
So I slapped on a malossi hobbit water cooler kit. Perfect fit. I don’t think it makes as currently put together the power of say one of my other hobbit with the Athena nicasil and the modded derby head. I was going to do stuff like above and had the minarelli stuff but sold it all when I found the simplicity of the malossi solution. I haven’t been spending huge time on this of late so I don’t
I’m sorry to not review this saga but did you in fact check the bore for out of specs. I believe you can find the hobbit factory shop manual in the wiki links. Basically anything in that manual applies to your thing with the exception of the worm gear in the crank shaft.I assume it’s a Keihin butterfly carb. You can check the main jet number to stock hobbit to make sure some previous owner changed
Did I read this correctly ?1 kinetic motor originally ?2 kinetic ignition ie kinetic light coil and ignition coil for stock kinetic cdi ?3 now a polini case with a new everything4 reused the kinetic ignition ?If above true and woodruff keys getting sheared then as the motor warms as it is run the two kinetic coils expand from the heat into interference with the flywheel.2 solutions1. Use a vespa i
You now need to use m7 studs. You need to go through the wiki on the correct way to do that. The whole thing can’t be free handed or you won’t have a perfectly perpendicular placed stud. If off 90 degrees it will never ever seal. The wiki is part of the site for a good reason. Others have made all the same moves as the rant hole you have fallen into. You now have evolved to a point that when and i
Measure the ring gap. That’s a basic. Especially on what’s not working. Also remember the c clips don’t like all that much going on and off. With piston off you can measure the out of round that in the shop manual. Take a look.