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Siamesed cylinder sleeves are thick walled cylinders that lack water cooling passages. The mass thickness helps to keep them cool. You might see them in car hot rodding. Making an air cooled cylinder one of these sleeves might allow a massive overbore and still remain cool and structurally strong, and make more power.
Wow, that is the first I have heard of that one! I better check mine.
No, both sides can fail, the right side is the weakest. I have had both front attachment taps tear loose(the ones that the long bolt up front goes through to pivot the front of the subframe), only one side at time. I have had the rear left tabs that attach to the transmission tear off as well.
Man, I totally missed this thread. I have several Grandes a blue one and a silver one, my daily driver to college. I got a stock case and a DR cylinder 13.13 carb, points engine. It will do 48 mph around Denver. My advice is reinforce your subframe heavily. If you ride this Grande with your hyped up set up you will crack your frame, there is no might. I have crack mine five times easy and someti
Hey Neal, I think a sleeve is the best way to go. Sorry your casting didn't come out. It isn't rocket science but it isn't making apb and j sandwich either. Don't give up, just don't take short cuts.I have been trying to find the smallest siamesed steel cylinder sleeve that could be adapted to make a cylinder. no luck so far
I lost one of my cargo box lids from my Grande driving through town and need to replace it. Anyone have some for sell I am interested.
LOL, no worries. I am glad you got it running. I have a 49 jet in my wifes Grande versus a 54 in mine... may I offer another suggestion get iridium plugs if your going to use it alot.
Did set your points according to when the cam has the piston up top. I set my points to open at the woodriff key. I gap it at that point. Have you checked your condenser?
Oh yeah that sucks, but it still isn't a hard fix just a pain in the butt aliagning the tabs from the subframe through the frame tube. If the frame tube still has the bronze bushing in place all you need is a new bolt up front with lock washer nut and I would use some lock tight. if you are missing or the bushings are jacked up, you will need to replace, might as well upgrade to these http:/
It seems like a thorough go through. Did you spray around the decomp lever on the head to make sure it is not leaking? Maybe your muffler is clogged and needs to be cooked or replaced. On a older moped never assume the stock settings work for all everywhere. Even with a stock bike jetting should and would be different in say Denver at the altitude of 5280 versus Chicago due to air density, or dry
Oh, ok! looks like like you need a new bushing and a couple of washers. It is an easy fix with the parts. You will need two wrenches and or a ratchet.
Are you talking about unbolted or is there a piece that has broke off? I am not sure exactly what you mean from your explanation.
ugh sorry, it is a pinto. for some reason my computer cut off the page. Have you checked to make sure your flywheel isn't rubbing and making contact?
What make/model moped are we talking about?
A lock washer and make sure you are holding the clutch bell with a strap(or chain) wrench to keep it from moving so you can get the right tension on the nut.
I am sitting here looking at a vespa 75cc DEPS kit and wondering if it would be advantageous to do a ringland or oilland mod to the piston before installing the cylinder. It has dual rings. Sorry don't mean to hijack, but there is a interesting dialog going on concerning the amazing info tutorial.
I have always used a simple SHA, but I bought a Polini CP. I haven't used it yet but I am hoping for some gain with it.
If your piston uses two rings would you even consider a ringland mod?
wrist pin communication mod- curious about that. how do you do it and is it effective at all?
I don't have a number for the speedo bulb, sorry. I replaced all my bulbs with 12v as i got tired of blowing bulbs all the time. I haven't blown one in a year so I am happy. The sealed battery also made a big difference, the lid doesn't completely fit on the cargo can. I put it on the lip at the top and screw in the knob, the bottom sticks out a little. The Italian Vespa wires are t
What kind of battery do you have? The unsealed scooter batteries that fit in the cargo cans at the back don't work as well as the sealed 6v batteries from Walmart that don't exactly fit in the cargo cans. But the Walmart ones don't leak and give off fumes. Is the moped stock? if not stock or if you can get it up to a higher rpm you will start blowing bulbs , especially if your coil
not sure about LA. Myrons Mopeds in Fullerton could probably do it.
Does this Grande have turn signals? are all your bulbs 6v or have you mixed 12v bulbs? If you have turn lights check your battery.I had a similar issue as the brake light draws energy away from the ignition. if your magneto isn't generating enough power while idling the brake light will cause it die.
Interesting, how do I check the ignition coil? The one I have in it now is from an old seized engine I saved.
Yep, thats it, except I got more cracks. Can't get flywheel off going to have to buy a friggen puller and a flywheel. DR maybe bullet proof but these flywheels ain't.
Sorry Bro, I hope you find it in one piece. People suck.
I guess?! this one is particulary bad , making it hard to take off the flywheel.
Looking to buy a replacement for a broken one. I really got to stop shattering my flywheels.
I haven't tried starting on a stand. Got plenty of fresh oil in trans. I think I found one problem, the flywheel has cracked. got cracks running all across the face. I had that happen before on a different engine wonder why my flywheels are cracking? Too much torque? Vibration? Anyhow I will continue to tear apart the DR engine to see if anything else is going on. Has anyone been successfu