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I have a pristine condition tank all primed, sealed and ready to go. 75 plus shipping. IM me if you want them.
Just take your points out and clean them. I think I have a working coil for the bike. There is no rectifier for the bike just a diode block and I think I have one of those too. Wanna buy em? 50 for the coil and 5 for the diode. Plus shipping. IM me if you want them
https://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?2,3606346PM Me if your interested
I have a NC50 Tank for sale. Its completely restored sealed and primed. anyone want it for 75 bucks?
Key switch or run/off switch (on the handlebar)
Maybe the compression is getting low enough to where it will run but not the way it should?.... Perplexing, especially since you clean the carb properly. I don't know I'm at a loss...
You said first "without modification", then right after you want to modify the choke? There's no reliable way to make the spree carb work with the express. Unless you butcher it. The only thing internally that really goes wrong with the NC50 carb is people don't or fail at cleaning the idle circuit tube. It's extremely important to clean the passage or the bike will not ru
Ken PM me if you want me to look at your nopeds....
Murray, I have a big fat worm you can eat if you want.
http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/mcy/3896075778.htmlBoth NC50's restored, Red one rebuilt engine, 650 miles, Blue one 3000 miles 35 mph+ beast. Spree runs good, most comfortable ride, also a 35 mph machine.
I believe this was the beginning of the litigation age. Company's CYA feature
The start position is a saftey feature, in case the throttle is wide open during start....even though a small child can contain the beast if it ever would happen.
How much are you willing to spend? Unfortunatly, the tank that I have, cost me 175 to repair, if you can spend that much Ill ship it for free, I kinda got hosed on the repair, it is what it is, if you can spend 175 i can at least break even on the repair. I know its not your problem but I have to do what I have to. I can guarantee this is THE best tank you will find, It will last another 100 years
I have a pristine tank, de-rusted, seal coated, guaranteed not to leak between the tanks. It's primed so you can paint it any color you want. Asking 200 plus shipping. Sorry it's a little pricey but I sent it out for welding and it cost a lot.
I emailed you for the carb, did you get it?
Need a NC50 Carb, prefer 1980 or earlier, dirty ok, missing stuff not ok. If you have a complete carb please let me know. THX
I think you can just pull the pump shaft out and connect the hoses to each other. Or plug the hoses up, remember it has to be air tight in the end, cause the engine wont run if they leak.
Just get rid of the pump all together, and mix the fuel and oil. You just have to blank off the oil pump hole after its removed. No sure where to get the blanking cap though.
Your tank is leaking into the exhaust if the oil is clean, or, the oil pump is allowing oil to bypass while the engine is off. The seals may be worn enough to make that happen.
Found it #48 20mph, #50 25mph, #50 or #52 for the 30mph engine, Thanks myself your a great help.
Anyone know the stock jet size for a Deltorto 14.12 carb?
If you need another angle let me know
Flywheel is loose for sure. If you rev it up and the noise goes away then its your flywheel. The magnetic forces at idle can allow the flywheel not to spin with the crank, when it finally overcomes the force it "catches up" and slams against the woodruff key.
You have to use Non-detergent oil in the clutch housing, or it will slip all day long. I would drain the oil out, spray out and clean the rubber parts, re-assemble and put Non-Detergent oil in it then it should be good. Unless the rubber is completely worn, that should do the trick. Those little rubber bits are so the clutch parts aren't metal to metal, like little dampners.