Results 1–30 of 132
john doe — 11 years ago
Primer, paint and clear for my motorcycle tank cost over $400, and that was wholesale.I'd say go for it, if it doesn't work out Krylon's only $6 a can!
john doe — 11 years ago
Obviously there are limits to what usable high compression is. Since most stock mopeds range less than 8:1, even kitted don't require more than 87 octane. If your compression is above 12:1 you shouldn't be running pump gas anyway and that applies to maybe 1% of the bikes on this board. Personally I consider 9.5:-10:1 high compression for an air cooled 2 stroke motor and wouldn't exp
john doe — 11 years ago
E-85, 100 octane at the pump way cheaper than race fuel. keep an eye on your rubber lines, ethanol dries it out and eats it.hi octane doesn't burn hotter, if you run higher octane than needed you'll run cooler and make less power b/c less complete burn.
john doe — 11 years ago
Higher compression will make more power through out the rpm range. If you can afford the extra 50 cents a gallon for 93 octane I'd start there. If that solves you problem I'd say win win. If i had to add a gasket, I'd try base 1st b/c advancing your port timing you might gain a smidge in upper rpm band. One base gasket isn't likely to change much of your timing. Experimentation
john doe — 11 years ago
Heath, sorry to hear about the seize. Time for a kit! There's definitly a clench factor with a 40mph seize. I've been on the road with work for about a month, no bike, no progress...Head pics, thats not the TGB head I thought it might be!2 stroke oil, I switch to Sabre b/c of recommendations on this board, 100:1 is what the label says. Running 40:1 (about what the injector mixes) I stil
john doe — 11 years ago
Cleaning the ports, I meant the cylinder -all the transfers and exhaust and at its base too. Compare the base gasket to the cylinder, usually the gasket matches the case pretty well but the cylinder's base could be opened a bit.Getting more power and top speed really means higher rpms, which mostly translates to removing all the restrictions to airflow on these. That being said you're ne
john doe — 11 years ago
Nate, you've got all the right ideas, the whole point of this thread and the wiki! Follow the tuning spreadsheet for jetting as you go. The stock idle jet seems fine. There's several guys going 35 mph with the stock carb. If you're going to clean up your ports, clean them all. If you go as far as decking the cylinder you can have the same machine shop mill the head. I've been l
john doe — 11 years ago
Running hot is a big symptom of too much advance. Get retarded before you seize!
john doe — 11 years ago
Yep, f-ed the kit for now and went back to stock "49cc". Added 3 head gaskets and gained RPMs. Can't tell how many because my cheap tach is on the fritz, but it sounds like one angry wasps' nest! Takes a little while to get there but hits 40mph, might have more left in it too. I haven't decked it yet either so more power to be had once I regain my squish.All I know is 40 s
john doe — 11 years ago
Pinging, it needs more octane. Predetonation can damage your motor.
john doe — 11 years ago
Cylinder is New competition from Denmark. 45mm, 59cc kit for Suzuki 50cc nopeds. Cast aluminum piston, cylinder is steel. I do have access to 2 full machine shops.Anyone bother o-rings, or is that overkill? I'll be on pump gas.
john doe — 11 years ago
I had a bad seize the other week, galled my cylinder and ruined the piston. It had a 45mm cylinder. I have a 47mm piston coming in the mail. When I bore out the cylinder how far beyond 47mm should I go?? If all goes well 65cc!
john doe — 11 years ago
Might have some trash in the jet/fuel bowl. I'd open it up and clean it well. Install a fuel filter if there isn't one.
john doe — 11 years ago
Stock my fz50 shifts between 10-12mph, way early, tried my hand at lightening the clutch arms. 1st try I drilled a 3/8" and 1/4" hole in both arms. Result was a longer shift/slide engaged at 14mph. 2nd time I drilled an additional 3/8" and 1/4" hole in each. result was a shift/slide at 16 mph. better but I doubt my 60' times improved by much. My compression and bottom end
john doe — 11 years ago
I don't have an express but I went from 12x3 tires to 12x4",generally tire width and sidewall are the same unless theres an aspect ratio. Be careful and measure your clearances. Keeping a smaller/stock rim makes the tire a little taller and a little narrower. This also gives you a taller final gear ratio, a little bit more top speed. You'll gain 6.28" circumference per 1"
john doe — 11 years ago
What he said. Unless you put the 1st gallon in your car and the 2nd in a can, I premix.stock most 2 strokes are low compression, 6.5:1, you could run 80 octane without issue. You probably wouldn't notice any difference, but the closer/lower your octane is to whats needed the more complete the burn will be. Meaning on a low compression motor you'll make more power with 87 octane vs. 100
john doe — 11 years ago
"I've seen holes straight through the piston to get oil through, also seen dimples. What are the benefits/what would help cool better? These are going between my transfers and exhaust port."Ricky, these both seem like great ideas. Oil and heat are major concerns especially at high rpm or getting stuck in traffic. Hole through the piston would you align holes with the ports or avoid
john doe — 11 years ago
genius!
john doe — 11 years ago
Read the spark plughttp://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Plug_chop
john doe — 11 years ago
more cylinders round out the torque band in each rotation because1 cylinder, 1 explosion every rotation, or 360 degrees2 cylinder, 2 explosions every rotation or 180 degrees3 cylinder, 3 explosions every 120 degrees12 cylinder every 30 degrees!
john doe — 11 years ago
Blah blah blah, you dont know, blah blah....If you ran lean with a 180 jet, I think you're having another issue. Can you get it to 4 stroke with the choke? Does it run lean at 30mph?I take advice from Zeke and everyone on this board. I don't do everything suggested and make up my own mind...Ram air=seize city posthttp://www.mopedarmy.com/forums/read.php?7,2790539,2790539
john doe — 11 years ago
Cold air and some ram air pressure=good thats why the pros racing GP for money do it.Try running your float bowl breather hose and gas tank overflow hose to the ram air, same air pressure could alieviate lean issue.Whats you're air fliter look like? Try putting a sock over it, more restrictive, less ram air.I want to see your ram air set up!
john doe — 11 years ago
Your bike needs a longer muffler/exhaust pipe to run correctly. They run like shit without a proper exhaust. Go back to the stock muf and you might be able to make carb adjustments. Mixture screw is only the at idle mixture and won't change mix at higher rpm. Is the exhaust gasket causing any restriction to the pipe? the hole should be around 1" inside diameter. You might also make sure
john doe — 11 years ago
All is good, hit and sustained 40mph GPS! Takes a while to get there, takes a while to slow down too, I think from all the rotational mass. Definitly lots of rpms, makes me a little nervous running sustained top speed after my seize. 40 makes the bike and wheelbase feel tiny. However the k10 forks and tires smooth out the ride. Bike went from a 1 kicker to about a dozen good kicks to start, expect
john doe — 11 years ago
Today was a better day. I opened up the stock shimmed motor, I had a bad head leak. I verified port bottoms at bdc with 4 gaskets, cleaned it up bolted her down and she fired up. Stock fz50cc with a total of 4 gaskets, less powerful low end, once the pipe hits at 24+ she really opens up! I hit and sustained 35mph on the speedo( my speedo is way under), there's a little more left, I was testin
john doe — 11 years ago
Gear it down, for better low end. Mill the head for more compression, more power through out all the powerband. And keep tuning. Are you 4 stroking?
john doe — 11 years ago
Heath, if you're going to make or reweld your intake I'd consider switching the carb from the oval mikuni. The 16mm mikuni from the L80 atv is cheap and plentiful. The flange bolts are offset around 10 and 4 o'clock, easy to adapt if you're cutting and welding anyway.
john doe — 11 years ago
Soooo, I have the 45mm kit, it has close to the same portmap as stock and could benefit with raised ports. Had an unexpected soft seize last night, wouldn't restart. Didn't restart today. Tore it apart, bad news, big score down a transfer, lost/eaten wristpin clip, piston aluminum scored over the rings. I can clean up the cylinder, piston is gonna be harder.......So in the interim I went
john doe — 11 years ago
Hard wired, trace the wires going to the key switch, then connect. Idle and reving problems are usually suspect of gas, carb, fuel filter, petcock. fz50 has a metal gas tank, between old gas and rusty debris I had hell cleaning and recleaning the fuel system. petcock vacuum switch can stop working, or if you have poor vacuum it can switch off. Install a new fuel filter drop the float bowl and spra
john doe — 11 years ago
Unplug the wiring harness from your left hand grip where it meets inside the headlight bucket. Test to see if it improves.I would check all wiring connections. It sounds like you don't have a very good ground. Your motor improves b/c the horn grounds a lot of power. Most of the wire connections are under the seat and in the headight bucket.Battery negative connects to the ground. Generator an