Results 1–28 of 28
Travis,Do a research on older posts.This problem has been solved way back in Sept 2011....or privately before.'' ...As for the intake, the following intake adapter, coupled with a Mikuni Vm16 will fit without any major modifications. (a bit of shimming here and there--minor)You can also keep your stock air filter box.Garelli VIP polini 19mm shorty PHBG intakehttps://www.treatland.tv/gare
Adam,Do a research on older posts.This problem has been solved way back in Sept 2011.'' ...As for the intake, the following intake adapter, coupled with a Mikuni Vm16 will fit without any major modifications. (a bit of shimming here and there)You can also keep your stock air filter box.Garelli VIP polini 19mm shorty PHBG intakehttps://www.treatland.tv/garelli-VIP-shorty-PHBG-intake-p/gar
When hitting a large street crack, if you experience a shark jolt on your wrists, your front suspension might be shot.As with my Nc50, your front compression springs are probably collapsed. (normal for 30 year old bikes)...see picture.Compression springs sell for $22 at your Honda dealer, but (of course) they're discontinued.http://www.dendoff.com/ has a nice range of compression springs, spe
I to installed this shock on my Nc50 81.It should be noted that it's fairly soft and can only support a 170 pound maximum load.The adjustment ring only varies the height of the shock.To prevent having to buy an adapter, I grindded of the existing lower attachment ring and had the original U shape clamp welded on the new shock....then painted the whole thing. see pictureNot perfect, but at $10
With a bit of tweaking, this is what I was able to install on my Nc50.A light housing from Europe with a 35W, 6V, H4 Halogen bulb.A 300% lumen increase from the original 15W filament bulb.I think the Nu50's run on 12V ???? ....It should be even easier.There are a lot of 65W, 12V, H4 bulb available at $12.Phil
I have the same problem.I was out bidded by $0.50 by an automatic bidding Ebay system last week. Crappy system. Its probably going to be re - auctioned at $65...no way.I'm presently working on an alternative solution which is to install a vacuum petcock valve on my tank.The one I found (from a Yamaha I think) fits on the tank's tread and I'm planning on using the (now plugged) remai
I have a headlight housing, black, with sealed beam, without the swivel front attachment. Send me a Pm if interested.
Concerning a do it yourself paint job, I don't agree.Unless you're a Pro yourself and you have compressor with a paint gun (and a dust free room), you should definitely have it done by a paint shop.I've had it done myself and my bike looks like a million bucks.(of course, a pro job will cost $150)Ok, strip it, sand it, prepare it yourself, but don't paint it yourself.Perfect jo
A Dr 70cc will definitely fit with a bit of shimming of the fins: 30% more power.The following Reed Valve: Boyesen dual stage power reeds "MOD" for pa50, pa50II camino nc50 na50 nu50 will also be needed and will fit: Easyhttps://www.treatland.tv/honda-hobbit-pa50-boyesen-power-reed-p/boyesen-honda-hobbit-reeds-mod.htmAs for the intake, the following intake adapter, coupled with a Mikuni
I basically have the same configuration as yours, except for a Vm16.I had the same problems. (Nc50 1981)At this point, you have a exhaust issue: you must increase your outward flow.Gut your stock exhaust or change it.In 2 cycle engines, exhausts must match engine size. (very important)At least get your stock exhaust clean as a whistle. (inside of course)Then, a jet in the 85 range should fit....th
I totally agree with Kl.Your float might be sticking ''downward''...so the small needle point stays open...always demanding gas to keep the bowl filled...and it then it escapes by the small overflow copper tube.Same principle as a common bathroom toilet...lolYes, check for needle point tightness and float free-play.One trick I found is to tilt the bike on the right side...the c
My original carb is shot, rusty, was cleaned 4 times this summer, stalls the bike all the time and leaks just like Dennis Sweet's previous tread.I'm feed up and I want to replace it.Wanting to keep the bike as stock looking as possible, I was thinking of initially installing a Garelli VIP polini 19mm shorty PHBG intake from treatland and a Mukuni carb. (not very keen with the PHGB carbs)
I don't think so.If the ''Drano'' had dissolved the fiber, it might had flaked out (which was not my case)...in any case, it's made to withstand extreme heat (engine exhaust)....should be tough.Drano type products are made to clean pluming pipes.You don't ofter hear of (copper or cast iron) pipes being destroyed for such products...when used correctly.The only im
I agree with every thing that was mentioned earlier, but before looking into a false auto choke or worned piston rings you might look into your muffler. You should not underestimate the possibility that your muffler is simply clogged.I had the same problems with my Nc50 1981 after my restoration program and the breaking period.Mine also would started ok, idled ok but would not want to run properly
Not yet...isn't finished at this point.But, yes, I promise to do it in the near future.Still waiting for my Polini kit, decals and other minor stuff.
Way back in early June, I promised I'd present my finished Nc50 seat raising project.I had to finish my overall restoration before doing this seat thing.So there it is.2 pictures and a Pdf text since it's hard to explain the procedure in this Forum's format.I'm not pretentious enough to say that it's the only way to raise a Nc50 seat, but it works.Have fun.
Right; a H4 bulb is a dual element; mine is a 35/35W.Also, be careful; you might be pulled over with a single beam light.Then again, let's not be paranoid. A single 55w bulb is still better than a cheap dual 15 or 25w bulb.Finally, out of curiosity, can you supply the temporary LED bulb part number or specs.PR
2 things:You say it works fine...?What type of light pattern does it produce.My former 15/15w bulb use to produce a dim 15 feet light circle at 20 feet.Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but H7 bulb are Xenon type bulbs.By your pictures published, your bulb looks more like a standard H4.Do you have a Hi/lo on your "h7" bulb?
You have to create yourself some type of tool to bang it in.In my case, I used two flat-head screwdrivers that were used like a fork.I've heard of people fabricating a "C" shape tube to hit on the plastic sleeve, so not to damage it....complicated.It all depends on the amount of rust and friction in the inner left tube.Don't forget to insert it to it's former depth.Also, d
Very good idea...You forgot to tell though how many Watts pull's your H7 bulb.Don't forget that Nc50 dynamo only produces 68Watts.I'm planning doing the same thing with a H4 35W 6Volt bulb with a brand new floodlight reflector.Tell us how it reacts on the road.PR
Read further down.My June 15th post gives you the answer.It's easier than you think.
I’m planning on installing a 70cc Polini kit on my nc50 Express 1981.$ 160.00(A nice addition to my COMPLETE restoration project)I’m not looking into making a Killer machine.I just need mid range torque, not necessarily pure high speed.Any hints?Will the Treatland.Tv ; Polini part number 119.0030 fit?.When they mention “a bit of filing needed”, what do they mean?- Clear the transmission plug screw
Actually, you’re right.I was able to take it apart last night.Indeed, both suspension bars aren’t alike.The left one doesn’t have any screw but a 2 inch pressure fit plastic sleeve which holds the whole thing inside.Btw, the workshop manual barely shows it on page 61. (not at all obvious)To remove the suspension bar, one must apply a generous amount of loose-nut or 10W40 type product to un-seize t
After having thought about it for 3 days, I think I have the answer.It involves the fabrication of a wooden hollow filler.The filler will be bolted to the frame and the seat will still be able to open by means of a rear hinge and an elongated bolt in front. (it should work)I’ll post a picture once it’s done
Has anyone ever taken apart the front fork suspension system of a Honda Nc50-1981.I think mine is causing me problems.The right ‘’shock’’ came out easily.But no ‘’rubber filler’’ came out.Is there a rubber filler on the right side?The whole left shock is sort of stuck inside.I suspect the rubber filler to have slipped inside the metal spring.Do I have to pull hard?Do I have to unscrew it?I don’t w
I’m looking for the complete set of a Nc50 1981 air cleaner cover, plastic housing (attached to the carb) and the top (left) plastic cover which goes over the oil pump.Also need the black rubber/plastic seal joining the carb to the fixed plastic housing and the element core.Nothing on Ebay or the usual suppliers.Any suggestions ??PR
Come on guys...!Let's be serious here...PR
Just wondering…As anyone ever found a way to raise the seat of a Nc50.Being somewhat tall, I dislike the obligatory crouch position.I suppose that a 1 or 2 inches raise would suffice.