Results 1–30 of 201
Open up the exhaust port duration to 178 degrees. That alone got me an extra 7-8mph. YEARS ago lol! Same MPG, just more power and top speed.
u can du it with a computer and a scanner if you have a modem.
Could you measure your stroke? Or find it on the internet? I am pretty sure its 38mm but I want to know for sure.
Zac I am going to have to dissagree with you that the port timing should not be altered. Increasing the duration of the intake, transfer, and exaust (espeacially exaust) ports will result in MASSAVE gains in power. I have witnessed this.On the mirror finish ports, everywhere I have read says that a peened surface allows not only freer transfer but also the slight surface turbulence keeps the fuel
I drilled mine out with a 5/8 bit and a hand drill. The bit expanded the manifold without my noticing. It streached it as much as it drilled it. Be careful as it is really weak stuff.
Most of the 2-piece stamped chrome pipes are just for looks anyway. They are not very close to the optimum shape and length to make power at moped usable rpm ranges.The bitch is that all the good racing designed pipes I have seen look goofy and cost 300 bucks.Tuned pipes are designed to reflect pressure waves emmited from the exaust port back to the exaust port at the exact time nessesary to push
exactly.The best thing that you can do porting wise is to port out the crankcase in areas feeding the transfers.On my airsaled puch, I ground the case WAY out, the more the better, just make sure you have enough case left to seal agianst the cylinder.Also, on the airsal the piston has holes in it to feed the boost port. These do very little unless you open them up to end up with 2 oval slots. Give
The airsal kit that I got for my puch had no port chamfering and poor fit where the exaust and intake manifolds botlted up. Make sure you chamfer the ports or you run a serious risk of toasting the ring and anything that gets in its way.
Yes. I did it to both my batuvus m56 and my honda express.
what kind of porting did you do? what numbers?
I ground out a piece of the lip of the crimp. then I took a small flat bladed screwdriver and went aroun the whole lip, uncrimping it. Took it apart, reset the od to zero, put on a new needle. Put it back together and crimped it down with my vise.Works fine now.
Probably crap in the jet in the carburator. Sounds like it is leaning out.
I have seen many carbon bridged electrodes on 2-strokes, but it is always due to a problem with oil mixing or poor tuning. If your engine is running correctly and you use the correct fuel, they shouldn't bridge before they need to be replaced anyway.I tried a surface gap plug in my peugeot and it wouldn't start it. went back to ngk.
I am happy with my bullet from 50cc.nl. only 32 dollars from them and has a fairly broad powerband. It really wont turn on untill the higher speeds though. It is an upper band pipe.
I guess I am more of a believer in breaking things in like you would ride them, to a point of course. If you are going to use sythetic oil just use it. I have broken in several dirtbike top ends with amsoil dominator race at 25:1 and have almost lossless leak down results so I will continue to do the same thing. Just don't opperate with an aggressive throttle setting for more than 10 seconds
I finally got my 70cc Airsal kited bike ported and broken in. I started to get it moving a little faster today, but it snapped the needle off at the 0 mph needle stop.Does anybody know how to get the speedo apart? I am going to put the second hand from a clock on it but I cant find a good way of taking it apart.
The power produced by the engines alternator will not be enough.Remember that with electricty, a good rule of thumb is that you will need 3 times more power than you will get back when going from a generator to a motor.Using an car heater blower run by means of a belt off of the engine might help. but an electric fan running from the bikes alternator will be a waste of time and money. Just save up
Why would they put synthetic in it when new?
Don't worry about ignition timing, You need to raise the port roof of the exaust port now to increase it's timeing. It should be exactly 1 inch down from the top of the cylinder on your puch. I think stock they are somewhere around 1.25.This will do exactly what you want, put more power in the upper rpm level. I am really glad to hear of someone else trying to port moped engines.You shou
You take it to a guy with a mill.Thats the right way to do it.Redneck style is to take ether a belt sander or a disk sander and go at it. Just keep checking with calipers.
did you change the timings or just widen the ports?
http://dicevideo.com/forum/moped.htmgains you 7-8 mph
I have done 14 R/C boat trimmer engines (super small bore) and 6 moped cylinders now, including a Puch (really small bore), with cutting wheel's, carbide cutting bits(they look like milling machine bits), chainsaw grinding bits, sharpening bits, and my dremel. Every cylinder is a little different so it is best to get a normal dremel kit and then just browse the shelves to see what kind of bit
Thanks!!I was just curious. I am betting it's a compresion relese part now that I see the head can be machined to mount one.
http://dicevideo.com/forum/moped.htmbut also search for the posts because there ended up being some questions people had that you might. I have a puch cylinder so if you are serous I can figure up the best numbers for you.The stock porting times on the stock cylinder are way to restrictive.
I was wondering if anybody had an idea as to what the little hole is going down from the head surface into the exaust port. My stock cylinder doesn't have one. Is it for a decompresion valve?
Don't use 5w-30 or any other crankcase oil.I switched to buying gallons of amsoil dominatior after I had great expereance with the original 2-stroke oil they have.Belive it or not, I actully feel the difference in power on my dirtbike with amsoil as opposed to a TC-W3 outboard oil. Slightly better power all around and better cold starting. No bs, I actually found this to be true.
Many times when I have removed my baffle the bike just getts louder and I don't get much more speed. Provided everthing is clean.Hit it with something. How about a picture?
I beg to differ. I have a trail 110 that will run 65mph stock tucked. With gearing and on a smaller bike like that it would run 70.yes it will be faster. my honda passport 70 will run almost 45.These are genuine honda engines not the chink ones but I would guess they are the same power wise.